BEAUTIFUL RIVER TRIPS.

King Country Chronicle, Volume VI, Issue 476, 22 June 1912, Page 6

BEAUTIFUL RIVER TRIPS.

THE WANGANUI AND MOKAU. | AN APPRECIATION BY G.E. Early in January of 1904. when the i upper reaches of the Wanganui river were not yet completely snagged and deepened by the River Trust Board, the writer had the pleasure of a most exciting and interesting trip. Messrs Hatrick and Co., having advertised the date of the maiden trip from Taumarunui to Pipirik', an artist friend persuaded mo to join him and take the voyage. With my camera over my shoulder and my fr ; end with his sketch book in his pocket, we hurried to catch the Auckland train for Taumarunui. We reached Taumarunui late at night, and after tea we sauntered down to the river to inspect the kind of craft which was to bear us over the famous rapids. We found a canoe of some fifty feet in leng<h by some four feet in beam, equipped with a ten-horse power oil engine. At 7.30 in the morning we were safely on board with our limited wieght of luggige (oOlbs). Silently we moved out into mid stream, where the throbbing engine, assisted by a strong current, carried ua swiftly away to the dying echoes of the "haere-ra!" from our native friends on sh-ore. For the first mile or two the captain had to navigate carefully to avoid the huge boulders *h the river beds against which the waters rushed and foamed. Later we passed into deeper and more peaceful water and all went well for some eight or ten miles. Now we heard the sourid of the rushing water on the famous "Te Maire," In a few minutes there lay before us the first and biggest rapid on the trip. For several chains the water tumbles in huge green waves over a broken surface of rock. We held our breath as the canoe entered the passage. Wa had successfully negotiated one hslf the distance when the man at . the stern -Mistook the command from the slipper in the bows, and dipped his paddla on the sterboard instead of the port -•ide. The canoe struck a fiat partially submerged rock and swinging round s though mounted on a pivot we git ■iroadside on and capsized. The crew were suddenly ejected and carried iown stream to slack wat<:-r, where thry made shore, while my friend and 1 held on like g-im death to the sides of the cano?. A large rock supported the canoe /from a complete somersault This exciting episode which thrilled us for the moment was soon forgotten in the con uest of other rapids below. All element of danger was soon lost -ight of amidst the bewildering enchantment of the river scenery that followed. Behind, before, on either side in those serpentine bend 3of beauty a wealth of ponga fern and nikau palm met the eye. So entranced were we with the trip that we resolved to take the up-river journey on cur return instead of via New Plymouth and Onehunga, a3 previously arranged. We found the company very reluctant to accede to our request as the launch was not yet properly equipped for a voyage which would occupy four days. However, the O.L. Ongarue was fitted with conveniences, cocking utensils and a steward placed in charge and off we started on the return j,,urney. This time we were accompanied by a medical friend, who was of a poetical turn of mind. Tho second day after ieaving Wanganui my friend—the artist—was busy with h'.s pencil and sketchbook. I was engaged focussing my camera over the rail at the stern, both of ua bent on getting a memento of the "Famous Dropscene," when our medical friend was suddenly seized by divine afflatus. After writing a verse in his pocket book, he passed it on to us to follow thd rhythm, each in turn adding averse: New Zealand's Rhine, Thy waters flowing free, One beauteous, endless dream From source to sea, Ponga and nikau palm,- . Cliffs adorned 'in'majesty, Unrestfur tourists' balm Destined to be. Flimsy ferns in mossy bedsDescription owes apology— Their Creator's praises sing In profound Doxology. Furrowed by silvery rills, Like bears streaming down Garlands of richest hue, Green garlands for a crown. Can pen describe thy charms? Can brush thy colours paint? Each one may try—but oh! How poor, how weak, how faint!

The foregoing can only be classed as doggerel, but I reproduce it merely to show how mere man is affected by the scenery of the Wanganui. If the above sentiments in rhyme be true of the Wanganui. they are equally true of the unknown Mokau. Only a few, weeks ago when on a business trip to Mokau Heads, I haj the good fortune to be one cf a party to make the first trip by launch up the rapids cf the Upper Mckau. The party was organised by the enterprising Mr Leo. Jacob, who, with his partner, Mr Black has recently purchased an up-to-date launch for the purpose of opening up the Mokau river to tourist traffic, as well S3 to create better facilities for those settlers along its banks. The O.L. Panirau is eminently suited for the purpose. A twin sc-ew, tunnel boat cf forty feet by seven, driven by two ten-horse power oil engines; flat bottom, of jarrah. drawing only five inches of water ; she is just what is required for the shallows on the rapids. With a good supply of refreshments on board a jovial party of twelve all told, moved out from Mokau wharf at 10 a.m. on Wednesday, April 17th, on an expedition of discovery. The native pilot who had been engaged to guide us over the rapids was left behind owing to an attack of "taihoa" malady. Our captain remained at the helm for the first twenty miles of navigable water. Here the Mokau coal mine penetrates the cliff overlooking the river, and to this point the Pifcjitoi and other steamers from Waitara make regular trips for coal. After leaving the mine the river becomes much narrower—the willows on either banks almost meeting in some of the bends. The chairman of the River Trust, who was one of the party, explained

that the board had hoped to have had all the widows exterminated long since, but were hampered through lack of funds, A workman from the mine with a knowledge of the river and navigation, undertook the wheel afterwards. A few miles later we passed Messrs Chambers' run where j some thousands of acres or bush had been recently felled. A neat -ittle launch lay moored at the wharf. A large woolshed and several houses suggested a township in the near future. A sawmill was also passed, with ether signs of progress. A unique specimen of yellow rata spread its boughs over the stream. When it flowers it fhould be a lovely sight. In places the scenery has been utterly destroyed by the woodman's axe. I was much surp-ised to find that, unlike the Wanganui, the scenery had not been conserved from skyline to water edge. This should certainly have been dona when the Government sanctioned the sale uf the Mokau eßtate. Later facts revealed surveyors at work cutting out portions of scenery which must now be paid for a the company's price—or present valuation. We had now reached our first rapid. All hearts beat wild with excitement, wondering how our boat would behave. A few sharp turns of the wheel, and her bows ploughed into the rush of water. The twenty horse power engines forged us steadily ahead, and 'with little difficulty we mounted the first rapid amidst cheers from all on board. This rapid ia known as the Mangapohue, . over which many a Maori canoe has darted in days gone by. Another short stretch of calm, deep water, and we were once mora in the rapids—this time a rushing current somewhat resembling a halfmoon in shape, rendered more difficult to surmount owing to a stream of some considerable size falling into the rivsr at this rjoint The launch negotiated it in good style, cheers resounding the hush as we climbed over the crest of the wave. Another short stretch of calm deep water, with magnificent scenery on'neither side and we found ourselves facing (he Horopuni rapid. Our pilot, with a firm grasp of the wheel, carefully picked bis way amongst a network of timber, uprooted trees brought down by slips on Uifi baiiU, until the centre of the stream is choked with snags and buried locs. A few minutes' groaning of the engines, and we had again vanquished our fos. This ia known as the Mangapongahuru rapid. By this time we had begun to think our little craft as capable of almost any feat on the river—3omeone remarking "she could go any: here on shore as long as it as a little damp." But the Panerau rapid soon proved a veritable Goliath crying out in loud tones, "Thus far shalt thou go come, but no further." We were now within twelve milss of Totoro (Aria) and right beneath: Mr Barnett's property of Waitewhena, about thirty miles from Mokau, our starting point. The day being far spent, we deemed it prudent to return as we had now to face the more difficult and exciting problem of shooting the rapids, which must be dons in daylight. Our launch bounded over the rapids on our return at the rate of thirty knots an hourmaking an average speed of thirteen knots in the slack water below. As night began to fall our clever young engineer began to prepare and connect electric wires, and we finished out journey with a searchlight at ihe bow. and our little cabin gßily illumined by electric bulbs. The night was very cold when we touched the wharf at 8 p.m. Cheers were given for Messrs Jacob and Black, and we went to our homes delighted with the day's outing, feeling thus truly was the birth of a popular tourist route As I lay in bed at Mokau boarding house that night, I dreamed a dream —methought I was an Englishman on tour. I had arrived in Wellington to see the sights of the far-famed wonderland. Travelling, by the WanganuiNew Plymouth express from Wellington, I alighted at Wanganui and there joined one of Messrs Hatrick's upriver boats as far as Pipiriki. Here I made a detour by coach across country to Waiouru, thruugh New Zealand's National Park, viewing Ruapehu, and ascending to the summit I viewed the, wonderful hoc blue lake surrounded by eternal snow. From thence I visited Kitetahi—a crater at the base of the burning Ngaruahoe which was pouring fourth volumes of steam, and which I was informed was the "safety valve of New Zealand." Next day I travelled by coach to Tokaano, a little native village surrounded by boiling springs on the shores of Lake Taupo. From here a launch conveyed us across the lake to Taupo township, a distance of twenty miles. Here we enjoyed a week's trout fishing, catching several twenty-pounders. Tiia hotelkeeper shot one with a ride which weighed twenty five pounds. We next took the coach for Waiotapu and Kotorua, visiting The Crow's Next geyser, Etuka falls, The Spa, and many other places, weird and fantastic. Several days were spent in Wakarewarewa, amongst the geysers, and Kotorua passed away a most enjoyable week. Taking the express to Frankton Junction, I joined the King Country train, alighting at Hangatiki to visit the famous Waitomo Caves, and I quite agreed with a remark I saw in the visitors' book. "Worth a guinea a box." From Te Kuiti I travelled by motor coachovev a beautiful metalled road to Totoro, viewing a lovely waterfall on the Mokau on the route. Down by the Mokau by launch to the fFads and from thence by coach over Parenihinihi, a route unsurpassed for mountain and ocean scenery. On my arrival at Waitara I was informed I should not miss the delightful sensation of an ascent of Mt. Egmont, and a visit to the Recreation Ground at New Plymouth. Both of these I treated myself to before returning to Wellington, and thus a delightful tour of New Zealand's mountain and river scenery came to an end. I rejoined the steamer at Wellington which was to bear me homewards from God's Own Country, and the Tourists' Paradise.