KING COUNTRY ATTRACTIONS.

King Country Chronicle, Volume I, Issue 10, 28 December 1906, Page 2

KING COUNTRY ATTRACTIONS.

A Trip to Waitomo Caves. Given a fine day, a pleasant companion and a seat behind a good going horse, and what can equal a morningdrive in the King Country ? What matters it if the way be rough in places, and you have to go cannily round corners, and dodge holes in a sidling road, when the birds are carolling a spring song, and the soft veil of the morning haze is mingling with the deep azure of a cloudless sky. The radiant green of the young growing grass, contrasts with the deeper hues of the standing bush along the roadside, with here and there the gaunt burnt stems of trees, showing where the bush fires have done the preliminary work of converting bush lands into grass pastures ; where the cattle browse contentedly, and look lazily on the intruders into their domain; the whole forms a picture of pence and serenity, and makes one long to be a farmer in this favoured land. So thought my friend from Arizona, as we drove along the road from Te Kuiti to Waitomo to view the caves. The spirit of spring took hold of him, and the spell of the scene was on him, as he dilated admiringly upon the surroundings, and drew comparisons between the King Country and sunny California, much to the disparagement of his own land. He is a firm though not an aggressive patriot, and maybe forgiven by his country under the circumstances. For the scene i™ truly a pleasant one and something in the morning atmosphere exhilarates _ a townsman, and !v:n look with favouring eyes vj-m valleys ! r-.s fair than that which captivated my Arizona friend. Leaving Tc Kuiti the road, after ascending the hill, descends to a shelter d v;Uey, thr High which it runs to H.mgatiki. .From the railway to the caves the road is being repaired and top dressed with a punice deposit which, it is hoped, will bind well, and make it wear through the winter. We contributed a fervent benediction to the roadmen's efforts for the sake of winter wayfarers, and took up the road to the valley. We arrived at Waitomo early in the forenoon rnd were heartily welcomed by Guide GovLr, who is in charge of the old caves. All was in readiness, and arming ourselves with the necessary lamps, we set out, upon exploration bent. The entrance to the caves gives the visitor no indication of what is to be revealed to him; but, before going far, the wonders and beauties of the place begin to be unfolded, and one cannot but look with appreciative eyes as the guide draws attention to freak after freak of Nature's handiwork. From the entrance are to be seen the terraces and a fairly long chamber, which, lighted from the interior end, gives some idea of what is to follow. This leads to a fine expansive grotto, at the end of which is the druids altar, with a bishop in full canonicals. Further on, the walls, which are generally of a dull white, break into a glistening mass of scintillating points, sparkling and glittering while the light lasts; this is evidently a band of rock which runs down from the very surface to the bottom chamber, as a shute of gold makes in a quartz reef. Further ahead more extravagant freaks are laid bare, each having distinctive features and peculiarities which may be likened to various things to suit the time and mood of the observer. These, the übiquitous guide unerringly catalogues, and places his victims in the best positions to view, while he illuminates them from just the right position for the most dramatic effect. In this manner are to be seen the calves head, the stone crocodile, the sphinx, a swarm of bees, and the three graces (the least of which is charity), all of which are in the catacombs. On the way is passed the well, a sinister looking hole said to be eighty feet deep, at the bottom of which can be heard the gurgle of running water. We did not explore the well. Further on a flight of steps leads to a bottom chamber, where are to be seen excellent representations of poached and fried eggs, with a solitary owl perched above, regarding the scene with grave and sedate demeanour. And so wonder after wonder is brought to view, till the unfortunate, who endeavours to remember even the most striking, only succeeds in becoming more bewildered. The chambers are all fairly dry and may be traversed without fear of mud or water, though the wooden stairways show signs of decay which tell of underground dampness so destructive to timber. The fairies larder, suggestive of Christmas fare, with its collection of good things hanging from the roof —turkey gobblers and legs of mutton side by side, with strings of sausages and bunches of vegetables. Then on to the cathedral, which, with its vaulted roof and noble columns, calls up memories of old world architecture, while the bishop's throne and canopy, suddenly thrown into relief by a burst of light, add effect to one of the finest scenes in the caves. Standing at the water's edge and looking upwards the scene is indeed fairy-like, and it requires little effort to imagine oneself transported to another firmament. On all sides and round about myriads of glow-worms illumine the scene, while far up stream in the distance is a faint tinge of light, which the guide informs you is the entrance to the caves, through which the Natives in olden' times paddled their canoes to the landing place where you stand. Retracing the way to the gallery on all sides are to be seen odd nooks and corners peopled with stalactites and stalagmites representing all manner of birds, beasts and fishes, while in a grotto of brown and white masonry are the ruins of a fine old castle. The organ loft is a beautiful gallery, and the organ, with its array of glistening pipes, prepares one to listen for the mystic, rolling strains of music. The man from Arizona was unstinted in his praise but evinced his disappointment at not hearing the music. Some day an enterprising head of the Department will install an up-to-date organ, with a special apparatus for working it from a distance. The organ will require to be a good one; anything tawdry would seem out of place. Returning to the entrance hall the guide leads the way to another branch of the system,

where are to be seen beautiful white and chocolate terraces, and a wierd array of stalactites and stalagmites in wonderful profusion, while further on is the blanket, hanging in beautiful A natural folds from the roof. In the same cavern are the ladies frame, with a beautiful picture background, and a splendid roof studded with small, exquisitely formed stalactites which heighten the fairy-like effect of the whole surroundings. To attempt to catalogue the attractions of the caves would be a stupendous task, and entirely beyond the powers of anyone but a man with a special mission. Sufficient to know that the wonders are legion. Go, and see, and examine them yourself, and under the able management of Guide Govier you will be impressed. You will roam through wicrd grottos, under fairy arches, into spacious halls, and be surrounded, now by goblins and weird shapes, and now by beautiful fairies, and scenes such as are dreamed of only in childhood's imaginative days, We drew deep breaths on emerging to the sunlit valley, and felt as though we had been journeying in another sphere, but the suggestion of lunchcon by our guide effectually dispelled the illusion, and we repaired to the accommodation house, where thecalls of nature were amply provided for. Our exploration of the old caves was so thorough that no time was left to visit the new ones. Moreover, we had seen enough for one day, and have promised ourselves another outing for a. descent upon Ruakuri.