CLIMBING MT. EVEREST.

Hauraki Plains Gazette, Volume XXXVI, Issue 4796, 7 January 1925, Page 4

CLIMBING MT. EVEREST.

BREATUING AT HIGH ALTITUDES. EFFECT ON THE MIND. Before the members of the Royal Geographical Society a lecture by Major R. W. G. Kingston, of the Indian Medical Service, was given upon the "Physiological difficulties in the ascent of Mount Everest.” Major 'Kingston, who accompanied the expedition as medical officer, remarked that the most obvious difficulty which had to be encountered was that of breathing (reports the “Manchestei Guardian”). Owing to the gradual nature of the expedition’s ascent this shortness of respiration was scarcely noticeable below 10,000 feet. It was definitely apparent above 14,000 feet, and above 19,000 feet the slightest exertion made breathing laboured and (severe.

When the body was at rest, even at extreme altitudes, the r.ate of .breathing was apparently normal and as comfortable as at sea level. But the very slightest exertion, such as the tying of a boot-lace, the opening of. a ration-box, or the getting into a sleeping bag, was associated with marked respiratory distress.

The difficulties of the ascent, Major Kingston continued, were thus enormously increased. The breathing was (liiieker rather than deeper, but it was necessary t<> stop at frequent intervals and take a series of long, deep breaths. This very quickly brought relief and made one ready for a further advance. Somervell gave the lecturer a record of his brsathing at 27.000 feet. At that altitude he had to take seven, eight, or ten complete respirations fur every single step forwaid. And even at that slow rate of progress he had to rest for a minute or "two every twenty or thirty yards.. At 28,000 feet Noton, in an hour’s climb, ascended only about eight) feet. This was the highest point reached without the aid of oxygen. The strain at that altitude was certainly intense, but when they remembered that the supply of oxygen was only about one-third of that available at sea level they were surprised that men could make those strenuous efforts and, still more, that they could remain in comparative comfort when they sat down to rest.

iligh altitudes, the lecturer continued, affected the operations of the mind. One member was confident of a dulling of the will power, a diminution in the strength of purpose, with less and less desire to reach the summit tlie further he made the ascent. Somervell described a lack of observance at and above 25,000 feet. Bruce recorded an enfeeblement of memory.

He (the lecturer) said everyone experienced some mental lassitude. Though the mind was clear, there was a disinclination for effort. Mental work was a burden at high altitudes, yet with an effort it could be done. One physiologist had said that sustained mental work was out of the question at anything over 10,000 feet. They certainly' could” not agree with that. The main effect of altitude was mental laziness, which determinatoin cduid overcome.

As to the possibility of reaching the summit of Mount Everest, Major Kingston said that though the physiological difficulties were undoubtedly ■severe, yet they could be overcome. But the condition of the weather must be more favourable than this year. The climbers; must be in perfect health and in first-rate training; they must be men of exceptional powers of endurance, and their capacity for acclimatisation must fee complete. JM. S' —