POULTRY-KEEPING.

Hauraki Plains Gazette, Volume XXXIV, Issue 4593, 1 August 1923, Page 2

POULTRY-KEEPING.

hatohlng TIME. | By F. C. Brown, Chief Poultry Expert. Poultry keepers who have not commenced hatching operations are reminded that August and September are the best months tp have the chicks hatching out, those brought out later than this seldom proving satisfactory. No time therefore should be lost in securing the required number of stock. In many cases, of hatching operations will be delayed til4 October, or even later, owing to inability to secure broody hens. The poultry-keeper who is very anxious to secure the greatest profit from his undertaking will, however, not waste time waiting for broody hens, but will adopt artificial methods, and thereby be able to have all his stock hatched out at the right time. It is now recognized that the maximum return cannot be secured from poultry g unless late autumn and winter eggs" are produced in good nutnbers. It is also recognized that the - pullets must be chiefly depended upon to produce these, and to do so they must hatched out early. This involves the adoption of artificial methods, as on most plants it is impossible to secure the desired j number of broodies when they are required. Even on the farm artificial methods must be resorted to. The chief reason why the farmer does not get winter eggs is because the greater number of the fowls kep: by him have passed their best period of production, or that, having been bred at the natural season; the birds lay when nature dictates and take a rest during the dear egg seasou. While a variation of price between summer and winter eggs will always be exprienced, there is no reason why the selling price should fluctuate be- ' tween Is and 3s 6d per dozen. HATCHING WITH HENS.

Those who are hatching with hens should take care to have ample provision for cosy coops and runs for the chicks. The coops should be placed on dry ground, and made in such a j wav that the mother and her will be protected from rain and cold winds. It is also essential that they be made cat and rat proof.; neglect of this provision means heavy losses of chickens each year. In making the nest take a shallow ; box about 6in. deep and isin. square, remove the bottom, and place on- the ground. Half flh it with moist earth, and shape the nest with the hands sc that the eggswil 1 have a tendency to remain in the centre ; in other words, make it saucer-shaped, care being taken that, it is flat on the bottom to enable the hen tp turn the eggs, which she does several times a day. Neglect in . this direction is a common cause of eggs being broken in the nest. The nest should be lined with a thin laver of hay, fine straw, etc. Place the hen on a few china eggs until satisfied that she can be t-usted with the eggs intended for incubation. Before the hen is placed on the nest give her a good dusting with carbolic or other insect powder in order to destroy any that may be on her. More trouble and loss are occasioned .by vermin in rearing of chickens under hens than by anything else. Do not. meddle too much with the hen when she is hatching. She can attend better to her natural business than you can, but as she is not carrying out- her work in a state of nature hoi- requirements must be considered. The application of moisture to the eggs is a case in point. Sometimes the air'cell dries down to such ah extent that the thin membrane inside the shell- becomes so tough that the chicken is unable to pierce it and consequently dies of suffocation. Here nature may be assisted by providing moisture. The best means is to take the hen off, lift up the nesting material, and give the earth underneath a good moistening. This is preferable to sprinkling moisture on the eggs or dipping in water. The object should be not to wet the eggs, but by applying the submpisture to encourage, by means of a hen’s body, a humidity in the air surrounding the eggs. When the chicks are moved to the coop, which should be constructed such a way that plenty of fresh air and light are provided, both the hen ' and the chickens should be enclosed fo- the first two or three days. Then provision should be made whereby, the chickens can run in and out in order to afford them exercise. It is always a mistake to, allow a hen with a young brood a free range. When the sit’ing-hen is confined in a box she should be let’ off once a Jay to feed, drink, and dust herself. It is, howr ever, much better for her if she is placed in a coop with a roomy run attached; she can then have before her at all times everything she requires, thereby minimising the time required for attending to her. Hard grains, clean water, and grit are all the food that a sitting hen needs.