THE GARDEN.

Hauraki Plains Gazette, Volume XXXIII, Issue 4509, 29 December 1922, Page 1

THE GARDEN.

VEGETABLE CULTURE. (By W. H. Taylor, Horticulturist, in the Journal of Agriculture.) The principal advance' work for the next few weeks will be planting for autumn and winter crops. The plants set - ou.t should include the various 1 sections' of broccoli, cauliflower of the Autumn Giant type, brussels sprouts, cabbages, savoys, kale, and leeks. Planting should begin with leeks, the cauliflower mentioned, brussels sprouts, and early broccoli. The others should follow on as quickly as possible, all being got out before the end of January. Brussels sprouts are not a success unless they have a long season of growth; they should, if possible, be planted before the end of .the year. Space them 30in apart in rows 36in apart, in well-manur.ed soil. The sprouts are formed in the axils of the leaves, and the leaves themselves should be preserved until they die. This is mentioned because some people think the leaves should be cut off to stimulate the growth of sprouts ; it would, however, have an opposite effect. Planting the members of the Brassica tribe mentioned above should: not be left, till rain has moistened the ■soil; it is much bettei] to get tne plants in before rain. They then will have got some root-hold, and a fall of rain will push them into growth right away. Where the soil is dry some means must be taken to give them a start. For small plantings the old plan of puddling-in is the best. This method is to make a hole with a dibber, fill the hole with water, plunge the roots of the plant into the water, and immediately return the soil. The soil mixed with the water makes a puddle ; the operation is finished by adding a covering of dry soil, which protects the puddle from the sun. Moisture is retained long enough to start the plants into new growth. Where large areas a|i’,e planted pud-dling-in would be impossible. The method adopted by market gardeners in some districts is recommended. The implement used is a hoe made for tire purpose, somewhat like an adze, but with a straight blade, the handle about 15. in long. The lines for planting are defined by a marker. The plants are usually placed in a shallow box, which is dragged along by the left hand of. ,the workman. With the hoe in his right hand the workman first scratches off the dry surface soil, apd then drives the hoe in by g. smart blow. The handle of the hoe is then depressed towards the worker, bringing forward the top of the blade and leaving a space at the back. The roots are inserted in .this space, the hoe withdrawn, and a slight punch with its heel given to firm the soil. The usual custom is to plant in the afternoon; two men will plant five thousand in fouff hours. The plants’ are lifted in the morning and placed with .their roots in water in iron washing-tubs or wherever most convenient. In two or three hpulrs the leaves will have taken up all the waler they c,an absorb. When taken for planting they are lifted in handfuls, a handful of mud from the bottom of the tub being taken and rubbed over the roots to protect them from the sun while planting. The land planted is, of couijse, of a suitable character, and well cutivated and consolidated. The plants grow away without any other attention except cultivation. In the warmer districts planting of celery can be continued till the mid-, die of February ; in all othefi’ places it should be finished as soon as possible. Planting later than early January would only result in poor heads. To get good samples of leeks planting should be done at once. Later planting is sometimes’ useful to supplement main crops, but results are not so good. Deep and. good soil is necessary, and plenty of manure, as probably no plant, takes, more out of the •soil than do leeks. A fair amount of humus is needed, stable oil farmyard manure being the best form to apply. If artificials arie relied oh a mixture of superphosphate, bonedust, and sulphate of potash will answer. These should be mixed in the proportion of 2oz each of super, and bonedust to loz O|f sulphate of potash, and 4oz of the mixture applied per square yard, forking fairly deeply into the •soil. When growth lias fairly started after planting a dressing of nitrate of soda should be given. This may be strewn along the drills at about loz to two yards of drill. An applica-. ticn of nitrate of soda will be a good investment, whatever other manure or fertilisers may have been used. To plant, draw deep drills with' a ftoe and. plant with a dibber along the bottom of the drill. The plants should be a good size, to allow for deep planting. Thrust the dibber down its full length, and with a circular twist increase th® diameter of the hole. Insert the plant its full length, and then lift it a few inches to straighten the roots. Thrust the dibber into the soil again a few inch-, es from the hole, but pointing slightly towards it, then, by bringing the top of the dibber towards the hole, press the soil firmly against the full length of the plant. Personally, I prefer not to trim either the roots er the tops, believing growth starts quicker by not doing so. A dwarf variety of peas may lie sown early in .Ta’nuary, the last for the season in most places. French beans may be sown up to the middle of February. .