WOMEN'S INTERESTS

Hokitika Guardian, 9 July 1932, Page 3

WOMEN'S INTERESTS

DECORATIVE VOGUES. TRIUMPH OF BRITISH FASHION. , . y ‘ . London is in the grip of the exhibition craze, whether-.it be French Art, Epstein Biblical sensations, romantic Stuart relics, the mellow walnut age, or fashion shows, on a scale never before anticipated outside Paris. Burlington House continues to at-

tract its daily crowds, and many would vote for an extension, but the Royal Academy, of course, has first claim

The Queen- was specially interested in the Charles 11. treasures, for she had studied the Stuart period so thoroughly at Holyrood House, and on the occasions when the Court was at Edinburgh.

The Walnut Exhibition at Sir Philip Sassoon’s bouse in Park Lane has been the happy hijnti'ng-ground /of antique lovers who desire to study this picturesque period, a popular one today, when small pieces are in demand for smaller houses.

Everyone nowadays is interested in decoration. We haunt the antique shops and the sale rooms, and those with money to spare are buying as an investment. That Christie’s great sale room in King Street has just reopened is a sign of better times coming. Incidentally, French furniture and pictures, out of fashion for some time, are now attracting more interest, and the extreme modernist craze in furniture and lighting effect is on the wane.

London’s latest craze is the allwhite room, a queer reaction, after violent colours and metallic decorative outbreaks. , ■

A young, man I know has carried out a wonderful scheme in Berkeley Square with walls of blue-white, pastels almost as delicate being let into panels. Sofa and , chairs, also white, were Louis XV., but silvered, in-

stead of gilded, with . white woven tapestry seats. , This! note of silver appeared also |in curtains of white velvet; white rugs were laid on parquet floors. Ornaments of white alabaster arid white Dresden blended in perfect harmony, for this' was in no sense a “period” room. Fashion Parades. And now for fashion parades, which are drawing the social world from morning to night, and even midnight! The “Buy-British” movement, needless to say, is led by the' Queen. She has expressed approval of the new artificial silk-velvet, hailing it as a, perfect fabric for Court trains

There is such a vast difference in price between real silk and artificial velvet that it is possible for a woman to save pounds on her Court outfit. I understand that the Court Chamberlain, whep giving the date of presentation, will put in a separate slip expressing Their Majesties’ wish that, as far as possible, Court dresses should be of British manufacture. The leading dressmakers have demonstrated, at a spring fashion show, Court frocks for the debutante that, need in no way express a note or extravagance or ostentation. The Queen herself is always extremely wise in the selecteion of her frocks. For ceremonial occasions she fully appreciates the suitability of lame, beautiful brocades, velvet and satins that suit her regal istyle, and are the correct background for orders and jewels which she knfows so well how to wear. Pastel shades that tone with grey hair are a perfect colour choice; faded pinks, lavender, powder blue and creamy tints blended with gold and silver, with wraps of royal purple and ermine, all seem the right selection for the Queen. Royal Restraint. Her private charities usurp the larger part of her income. She always, therefore, restrains her choice in personal expenditure. In fact, the Court gowns of a past season will generally,' with certain alterations, become her dinner gowns for the Windsor an c ] Sandringham parties. For day time in the country, national tweeds are selected for the Royal sporting outfits. The corselet skirt in tweed with the top or blouse part of wool lace of English make is at the moment a favourite choice under a straight tweed coat. It is thrilling to realise that London is at last the world’s fashion cen- i tre, and that the great Paris designers have to come here, as their clients j show n 0 inclination to go to Paris. M. Jaques Worth was staying at the Dorchester, while showing his .spring and summer collection at hi s . London house. Captain Molyneux will in a day or two open his English branch in Grosvenor Street. That Queen of Paris dressmakers, Mademoiselle Chanel, is at the Ritz full of plans for he k r London modelhouse, where she will feature British abrics made to her design. I noticed, too, Mme. Scliiaparelle, who has launched so many successful sports fashions, wearing (amusing go!|l gffoves at a party the other evening j Smart Dressers. There is a very smart look about our best dressers. For both day and

Jiints from 'Jiome and Jibroad.

night time, all Black is England’s “chic” choice.

It is difficult to realise, until one sees for oneself, how smart black “wool” can be for evening. Worth shows a lovely trained evening gown in black wool orepella., fastening up the side, and another in all white- wool with a flounced train; An interesting English group of dressmakers has had a ‘.very successfull*. dress parade, including Reville Queen’s dressmaker), Norman Hartnell, a successful young university graduate, and Madame Jsobelwho, though stilll youthful, lias built up an amazing all-British business.

The claims of Empire shades and the later Victorian colours were emphasised by these three. Another interesting fashion point elsewhere, as in London and Paris, was the varying skirt-lengths. Reville and Isobel seem to favour calf-length for the afternoon, while Hartnell was more, in dined, like Molyrieuic, to the shorter day skirts. All were unanimous on the desirability of long draperies for evening wear, with cleverly inserted trains for ceremonial occasions. Waist-lines are movable affairs! Some dress artists try for “Empire” effects, or for nearer the normal position, while other experts are more interested in the longer lines. / ! Hats and Hair. , The first spring liats favour more hair showing behind. Some have tiny brims which may turn up anywhere. The tilted side movement; with the cluster of flowers, is a general favourite. Bows of ribbon and straw form a sort of bandeau at the back, for it is not everybody that can afford time and money to live at tile hairdressers!

Sleeves assume a tendency towards more decoration, but the fp'.ed moulded examples remain good style. Blouses and boleros display a few fantastic frills at elbow, but the mode, is really “go as you please” in these ways. -

Collars are interesting, and varied, the scarf or -bow-ties playing an important part. , v

Gloves are optional for semi-formal functions, but long pale suede or white ones are worn for-teh more important parties. Gauntlet gloves fastening with two huge pearl, or cut steel, buttons are among tailored accessories, especially in black,or tan suede. Sensible Economy. Semi-floral frocks are required more than additional styles in dress for the type of London season that we anticipate in thi s period of simple entertainment and sensible economy. Although greatly changed in many ways, .and perhaps shorn of much . magnificence, this season should prove very, enjoyable, especially, for the debutante and the “‘sub-debs,” as the. “sweet seventeen” of last century are now described. For them, missing the caviar and champagne evokes no hardship; they much prefer the unconventional cocktail-sfien-y party, or the midnight orgy of sausages and beer, provided they can dance and play to their hearts’ content! Tn the coming-out dinners and balls of more formal character, hostesses more successfully get over the difficulty of expense by combining their forces and sharing a house or hotel. Wherever the Royal brothers are a party is always sure to “go”, for they dearly love a dance that is not too ceremonial. Lady Pamela Smith unanimously ; declared to be one of our most brilliant/ of the 1932 batch j of debutantes was at this party, which indeed, was partly in her honour. Beautiful Countesses. The engagement of Miss Margaret Whigham to the very youthful Lord Warwick, which will in due course be follovved ,by many brilliant weddings, is most interesting. Lovers of beauty 'will appreciate the fact of so many beautiful Countesses, of Warwick in succession! Few women have had such claims to real beauty as the socialistic Frances-Evelyn, Countess of Warwick, grandmother of the present earl. Possibly in those late Victorian and Edwardian days beauties were rarer than they are to-day; because- society was so much more restricted. The dress too, was apparently so hideous, that only a few people could put up a good appearance, whereas to-day fashions are so “kind,” and prices are so moderate that more girls seem extraordinarily smart and finished-looking, and so get a reputation for good looks. The country girl in particular now dresses so well. In fact, the new sporting tweeds are charming in colour, and light in weight, and neitheneed they be “aggressively sporting.” The smartness vogue for race meetings is the classic suit in dark irongrey black or brown. Scarves in bright , colours are new, hut nothing locks better than silver fox ties. Wind-swept Coiffure. All the “bright young things” are now endeavouring to wear the “w'l'dSwept coiffure.” A few of them look well, hut the hair has to he so carefully; done to carry out this nonchalant careless effect that it is apt to get really untidy. It is also inclined to he ha-d. Some girls look well with their lmir swept right off their foreheads, j hut the more feminine styles are prettier for the average girl.