PEEPS AT PARIS

Hokitika Guardian, 23 January 1931, Page 2

PEEPS AT PARIS

SPINSTERHOOD FESTIVAL

CHANGES IN FASHION,

PARIS, November 27

Every year secs Si. Catht>riiie’s fete of more importance in Paris, tins being hugely dut* to the- kindly spirit ol' such large di'cs-making houses at Worth. .Violvneux, who now make a festive day of November 2d for all thenoirls associated with fashions, maimc<lllills included. The religious side is nof forgotten, and the day begins with celebrations of tbe patron of unmarried iriris, the special eburcb and statue being in one of the working: rpiarters of Paris. The great .Madeleine too has a musical mass with appropriate hymns, and if is a pretty sight to see the prirls who have reached the mature ago of 2d and foil ml no husband. filing up the aisle eoiilWl in their gorgeous bonnets of gold and green. The bonnet curiously enough is the. only essential part oi the costume, I suppose because the bridal veil is the outstanding feature ol a bride. However, in ail tbe main boulevards, and from all the windows of big fashion

purveyors one this year suW fancy dresses of infinite variety. r l lie, small - er restaurants entered into the full of the thing and gave more than, willing service to these dam-sola, other customers being of little importance. Indeed in many cases the proprietors added free wine, even to champagne, to the fare. Gramophones livened proceedings and soon the girls clasped each other round the waist and whirled round the. tables.

The origin of the whole lies ill the martyrdom of Catherine, a young and beautiful maiden, who embraced

Christianity against her royal father’s will in Alexandria. She also rejected the suit of a royal lover, and was cast, into prison. Remaining linn to bar faith, she preferred death oil a wheel set with razors (which miraculouslv fell to pieces when she was tied on it), and fianlly execution, to marrying a heathen. Hence the expression “to cap St. Catherine,” or adopt spinsterhood for life. Nowadays, the 25-year-olds are presented with a ‘'bonier” by tlu ii' fellow-workers, another iretty ceremony, consisting of the election of a “queen” of each workroom she natural'y being the most popular comrade. She carries a lovely bouquet, whi.lt* others content themselves with button-holes Of orange blossom, mimosa and green foliage.

■Rather a curious feature is now creeping in. The heads of large firms look on tiiis as a chance of finding talent and originality aong their “hands” They organise fiances aiul competitions for the best-made head-dress, as well as for a fancy dress. The Work niid ideas must be quite unaided, and so, as the girls pass in front, of the “boss” and other judges, there is a splogdkl chance of promotion or at least an impression that may lead to future glory. Cor remember that in France, dressmaking is a difficult study, with yearly examinations to pass at which at least, one Government Minister will he judge. The course lasts for some years with a substantial reward at the end, for gifted girls work on to designing, and other branches, and become indispensable to famous firms. A NOTE ON FASHIONS.

As far us jui.v of us cun make out in these days of rapid changes, we are to he regaled to an infinite variety o! sleeves, hence a lew hints thereon may be useful. Nothing will mark flic wardrobe more than these, 'those of you who have stored very old lasnion plates may wed find inspiration therein, or if you like, go as far back as Elizabethan times and adopt a slash ing method. The only thing to avoidis the elbow sleeve ,otherwise, as you please, it may just turn over the armshoulder joint, or flow down to over the wrist and beyond. You may likewise leave bare tile upper part, of you arm, clothing it here and there with a narrow ribbon or diamante that catches the full folds cf the under arm, or you may reverse the process. If you favour the new cape effect, you 'may carry on the shoulder part lound the arm, taking care that the stuff flows out bell-like, with your arm as the clapper. For ultra-slim arms long sleeves are to he recommended, but with many adjuncts. One of the prettiest I have seen was of black crepe do chine beginning in the ordinary way from the shoulder. However, about three or four inches down it opened, only to be caught up again with half a dozen or so tucks on the inner side of the elbow, from where it was very tight-fitt-ing to the wrist.

Another, even more elaborate, consisted of a series of little frills the whole way down. Quite effective and easier to make is the one adorned with a couple of small triangular pieces a few inches along the wrist.

The same lavish ness is to he seen in coats-—not frills, of course—hub otherwise the hell-shaped wrist, tile barrel one, too, small trimmings of white on black', or vice versa, bands at any angle and anywhere. It is a return to the elaborate simplicity of Yictorianism with a vengeance. t’p to now w,~ liave mercifully preserved intact the simple sleeve of the tailor suit, and as these are much in favour, those ot ns who feel shy of drawing attention to our arms may find solace.