Thank you for correcting the text in this article. Your corrections improve Papers Past searches for everyone. See the latest corrections.

This article contains searchable text which was automatically generated and may contain errors. Join the community and correct any errors you spot to help us improve Papers Past.

Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

WINTER FODDER

STACK ENSILAGE. HOW TO BUILD. In building an ensilage stack it is very important that a farmer shouldhave a fair idea of the quantity ol material lie lias to put into it and the size of stack required. A good average crop of meadow hay will provide about seven tons of green material per acre, a fair crop of lucerne or temporary pasture? to 9 tons, and good crops up to 10 or 12 tons; special crops of tares or peas up to 10 tons, with extra good as high a s 12 to 14 tons; millet 12 to 10 tons; and maize about 00 tons, with extra good crops running up as high' as 50 tons. About 20 tons is the minimum amount of material which should he put into an ensilage stack. The approximate sizes of stacks are : —2O to 40 tons, 14ft by 14ft; 50 to 70 tons, 16ft by 18ft; 80 to 100 tons, 20ft by 24ft. . If seasonably good methods of saving are employed, each 80 tons of ‘green material put into a stack should, result in at least 20 tons of sound cured ensilage, after allowing for all waste. • 1 1 1 . . SHAPE OF STACKS. Where very large quantities of mntoriql are being put in, a .good square stack is probably the best; but for average conditions it will be found that- a round stack gives' the best 'results, being easier to build and show, ing very little waste when finished. The material should be stacked when, at its best unci whilst it retains 'sufficient sap to bring about the necessary fermentation of cooking. Occasional showers' during the building of the stack are generally an advantage, and. necessary if the material lias been allowed to become over-ripe. The most useful outfit,for the small farm is the mast stacker and drab; with .one sweep. This outfit can be conveniently worked by three men and a boy, and if more labour is Available two sweeps may be used, five or six men and, a boy then .being required. There--are - various, makes of mast outfit,’ but they all work much on the same principle. THE WORK OF BUILDING. With everything ready Tor "a start, sufficient material should be cut qnd the stack built up -Bft to 9ft the first day. 1 Usually the material should be cut and put straight into the stack, with tlie exception of lucerne crops containing very much succulent material, such as sow-thistles, and in such cases the material should be allowed to wilt a few hours before stacking. Having been built before been built up to Bft or-9ft, the stack should be allowed to stand for one or more days until-it has settled down properly and the temperature in the centre is between 120degr- and 130 deg. The temperature haying risen to the proper' ppint, -stacking qJT ay .fte continued' from day to day, but if it is noticed' that the stack is .not settling

or that the temperature is low, it should be given another spell for a day or two. The general rule is: If the temperature is getting too high, add more material; and if too low, refrain from adding material until it has reached the desired point. ,

THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE. At one time it was thought that brown sweet ensilage was the best, but experience has shown that the green fruity kind lias a greater feeding value than the brown. If the stack temperature does not rise about 130 deg, the superior green ensilage will result. Experienced ensilage-makers can tell from the feel and appearance if -the. temperature is right, but ‘beginners will find it a great help to use a thermometer. All that is necessary is a piece of 3-inch or lunch iron piping from 4ft to 6ft long. Into one end of this a pointed stick is placed, and the pipe driven into the stick. The thermometer (an ordinary milk-thermometer is satisfactory) is attached to. a piece of string and lowered down the pipe. The thermometer may be pulled up from time to time as required, to ascertain the temperature. When ready to start building again’ the pipe and thermometer are removed, and at the end of the day’s work replaced- in position. , . " '

When building, the stack great care should be taken that the outside walls and corners are kept firm by tramping. The centre should be kept full, but not ' hearted up like •' a haystack, the idea being to keep the surface as near level as possible, with-.the walls hard, and firm to exclude the air, ’ On finishing .the stack .it should be hearted up .so that when the earth is applied t the centre will be a little higher than the walls; During the process of building the stack ‘should be fre.. quenty pulled hard, and the material thrown into, the centre., If, while the stack is being built,,' the wind is constant front one quarter, it will ha.ve a tendency to drive the heat to the lee side and cause uneven heating and settling; with the result that the. stack, sometimes topples over. To guard Against this, a sheet of 'some sort should be hung on the exposed side while the wind is blowing. . - WEIGHTING THE STACK.

When the building of. the stack is completed, it must'be-weighted to cause, even, settling ami do control the temperature. -In most cases earth is the most; suitable .for the purpose.. If, /the stack-is; hot. and, settling' quickly; ■the earth should be put on,'at once, hut it tlie settling, is slow it is best to' wait •a. day 'or two, as <-by this' time the height of the stack will be ‘considerably reduced, and it: will be seen’if tlie/ settling is even. It is ..necessary to fix a frahie of some 'sort round the top of the stack, as near the edge as possible, toehold the earth/ The frame'may be made of boards, supported with 3-inch by 1-inch stays;' and bfaced lengthways and across with wire, and put the earth inside them-. Another useful method , is' to run a wire round . the stack about two feet from the edge, tying with cross wires, then filling , old manure-bags or petrol tins with soil and hanging, them on the wire to serve, as .a frame.' The soil should he put on to a, depth of nine to teg, inches along-* the sides, running to fifteen to. eighteen, inches in the centre. If the. season' is very dry, it. will pay to double the- quantities of earth. The stack should be watched for a day or two- to- see' that is settles evenly, some of the earth being moved from place to place, r OT more added if necessary, i -

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/HOG19300930.2.62

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Hokitika Guardian, 30 September 1930, Page 7

Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,122

WINTER FODDER Hokitika Guardian, 30 September 1930, Page 7

WINTER FODDER Hokitika Guardian, 30 September 1930, Page 7

Help

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert