MT. COOK

Hokitika Guardian, 21 March 1930, Page 7

MT. COOK

SUCCHSSFUL ASCENT

FOUR MEN REACH SUMMIT. The only successful ascent so far this season of New Zealand’s proudest alpine peak—Alt. Cook—was made last week by a party of four men after a trip which diners experiences made extremely memorable for them. ’I he men who accomplished the feat are Messrs A. Shand, of Island Hills, Culvorden, K. Parker, of Dunedin, Chief Guido V. Williams, and Guide Bowie, from the Alt. Cook Hermitage. Air Shand has spent several years mountaineering in many parts of the Southern Alps, and has done most of the big trips in the Alt. Cook district. He described the conquest of the tallest peak of the Alps as a most pleasant and fortunate outing, for on the day when the ascent was made, a solid frost on the ice and snow was followed by a perfect morning.

Previous to the ascent, Air Shand had, in company with Air John Baldwin, an American visitor, spent several days at the Malte Brim, where Mr Baldwin, who had done extensive mountaineering in Switzerland, was greatly impressed with the naturalness of the New Zealand 5 climbs, unspoiled by the railways and deep artificial stops of the Continental ranges, where civilisation had detracted from.the beauties of the alpine districts,

On March 6th the two men returned to tlie Ball Hut, where Mr Baldwin left for the Hermitage, and Air Shand was joined by Mr Parker. The first attempt at Cook was made the following day, from the Haast Hut. When almost two-thirds of the climb were over, and the foot of the summit rocks reached, a severe alpine storm arose, forcing the men to return to the but. “We realised what a real alpine storm was like,” said Air Shand, “for by the time we reached the Haast Hut again we were well out about and fatigued. The storm did not abate for live days, all of which wo spent in the' hut, being unable to venture far afield.”

THE ASCENT. Then, on Friday, in splendid weather conditions, with Guides Williams and Bowie at either extremity of the rope, the party left the hut at 3.30 a.in. travelling via the Linda Glacier. The ascent was uneventful, except that the ice cap at the summit presented difficulties, where a depth of soft snow frequently broken by deep crevasses, hindered progress, this stage of the journey taking six hours to complete. 'The summit rocks, usually covered with thin ice, and very dangerous, were practically clear of it, a fortunate thing for the climbers. The summit was reached by 12.15 pan:—just over nine hours’ climbing, and a. spell was made for a while.

The return journey was not without its thrills, for in the first place a hurried trip had to he made to cross the head of the Linda Glacier before two ice Ibridgps, which were shrinking when the party went up, collapsed. Only one was left when the men reached the place, this being only about four inches through in tho centre crossing a deep wide. Guide Williams was the first to try it, while the rest of the party dug themselves will into the slope in case the ice would pot support the guide’s weight.

A SHAKY CROSSING. “Vic. William’s nerve was great,” Mr Shand said; “when he reached the middle, he stopped, looked round, and passed a humorous remark about a block of ice breaking off, then carried on to the other side without a falter. Parker and I followed, the men on either bank keeping the rope well strained. Bowie was last, the ice bridge cracking ominously as he stepped off it. Wo were very thankful to be across.

“Further down we were held in check for a few minutes )by Guide Williams, waiting,for an avalanche to fail off the Silverhorn. Parker and 1 both marvelled a,t his judgement, for within a short time tons of rock, ice, and snow hurtled into the glacier below, The view we got when wo reached the top of that peak was wonderful. The ice ridge linking up Silverhorn and Mt. Tasman is considered the finest in the world. It has been traversed only once, bv Marcel Kura and H. E. L. Porter, two noted alpinists. The Haast Rutt was readied again by 9.30 p.m. after an 18 hours clay.” The pleasure of the climb, Air Shand stated, was due largely to the confidence the two men had acquired in the guides, who, in 'Mr Shand’s opinion, are two expert and firstclass climbers.