THE LURE OF SWEDEN

Hokitika Guardian, 23 October 1929, Page 8

THE LURE OF SWEDEN

(By W.B. in Melbourne “Age.”)

The “land of the' midnight sun” ancl bright summer nights is fast becoming the Mecca for all travellers who wish to satisfy their thirst for magnificent scenery, picturesque country folk and cities filled with historical romance. The country casts a magic spell over the traveller, juring his thoughts back into • bygone days, when some Tourteen centuries ago the same hills and fjords rang with the voices of Viking warriors returning in their galleys, ladei down with the spoils perhaps from the banks of some river in northern Russia, the coast of East Anglia, or from under the minarets of far-flung Constantinople. , A coastline indented by innumerable fjords and rivers has played an important part in the history of the country. Not only did the Vikings find in these a safe retreat, while renewing their fleets from the rich forests which clothe their banks, but, also, through the centuries that have elapsed, these fjords have provided sheltered harbors for' - the fleets ol merchant vessels which ply along these shores, besides giving ideal facilities for yachting, fishipg and aquatic sports. Tire nature of the Swedish landscape has preserved many historical remains; the thick forests and craggy hills have prevented the farmer from, encroaching upon the ancient domains .where prehistoric tombs and fortifications. Viking rune stones and buried finds lay hidden. In the old university city of Upsala the three mounds reputed to be the graves of Odin, Thor and Freyr, the ancient gods of the Swedes, are perhaps the most interesting of these relics, dating back five centuries before the Christian

j Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, is irapidly becoming one of the most important centres in northern Europe.Situated on the islands and foreshore of ; Lake Malaren, its thronged streets and busy, waterways, aiong which ferries and small water craft are continually passing laden with passengers, make a .pleasant contrast .and change to the quiet rural life of the surrounding countryside. One of the most striking features is the marked difference between the old portion of the town known as “the city between the two bridges”- and the new. Standing in a labyrinth of winding streets, gabled stone-built houses of mediaeval design face, across but a narrow strip of ;water, the modern buildings sur T rounded bv, their spacious squares and well-laid-out avenues. Yet this sudden division between ancient and modern does not convey any feeling of dis- ; appointment owing to the fact that both taste and restraint have been exhibited in the • design of the modern architecture. The massive square of the Royal palace built in the seventeenth century, and the House of Knights, are fine examples of the Italian and Dutch 'Renaissance styles, while th© architecture of to-day combines the, qualities of both solidarity .and elegance with an imposing dignity that lacks only the mellowing .touch of time. ‘Between -Stockholm and the sea lies ithe far-reaching Archipelago of .the Shargard, dotted with thousands of iwooded islands, with deep channels lying in between; on the larger islands villas 'pud summer residences are ■built, their delightful gardens sloping down to the water’s edge, where pleasure yachts and motor boats are moored, the latter being used as a means of conveyance to and from the city during the week. Twelve hundred .years ago. Sweden was divided into itwenty-five independent provinces. Today the present county boundaries still roughly correspond to those old divisions. However a more natural division is that of Gotaland, Svealand and Norrland, the southern, central and northern provinces. The rich and fertile plains of Gotaland, dotted here and there with farm houses and supporting a large agricultural population, . forms a contrast of both Svealand and Norrland, the former with its thriving industries, cities and ancient towns, and the. latter rugged and wild with its mighty forests, mountains and thundering waterfalls. The Swedes, despite their strong patriotic, tendency, present racially many differences, for, with the exception of the people of Svealand and Smaland, none can be said to he of pure Swedish extraction. In the south they are not unlike their Danish neighbours, and further north one finds the descendants of the Goths, while the Norrland peasant is not unrelated to the Finns and Lapps, with whom there has been slight intermarriage. The ijapps, the nomads of the north, greatly add to the picturesque atmosphere of the country; dressed in their brightly coloured costumes they are continually moving with their families and reindeer herds in search of fresh pastures. During the long winter months, ns the north of Sweden is many m'iles nbo'-o the Arctic circle, they migrate | south from the frozen, fastnesses, and, desr>it'e the rigor and hardship of their life, where the fitest alone survive, these simple folk are happy as i the day 'is long. Some of these mi--1 grations have caused the respective I Governments of Norway, Sweden and | Finland much concern, as the Lapps i have always remained oblivious to i such formalities as customs regulai tions and passports. However, an \ agreement has now been reached al- | lowing them to wander where they 1 will, as the only commodities they I ever possess of any intrinsic value I' are a. few tins of coffee, some crude

tobacco whiolii is quite unsmokaible and their reindeer. Among the ancient customs which give such charm to tho Swedish life is the greeting given to the arrival of spring. This has been handed down from generation to generation since pagan times, and finds its origin in the rites of the sun worshippers. It is known all over Sweden as “Valborgsmaesa,” or the fetp of Valpurgis. It takes the form of assemblies singing songs, while the hillsides are ablaze with bonfires and the children dance and play. In the city of Upsala the university students don their white caps and, marching up to the ■Ad Castle Vasa, sing their traditional songs. At the same time the students m Stockholm similarly dressed, march up -to Skansen, the famous open-air museum overlooking the capital, and sing also their traditional songs to the crowds who have com© up from the city for tho occasion, while the Valborgsmaess fires, flaming out on the hills, throw a lurid glow over the scene which, is reflected 'in the winding water-ways of the city far beiow.

The Swedes are an extremely fine race both in culture and physique, with a keen sense of humor. Though their literature is, on the whole, introspective and temperamental, it does not, in my judgement, reflect their true outlook on life, which is culm and cheerful, as is to be expected from a race which devotes so muen time to physical culture and outdoor exercises, The people delight in good food, and attach much ceremony to their dinner. It is not uncommon for this meal to last three or /our hours, starting with smorgasbord, substantial hors d oeuvres of cold meats and, fish, and > finishing with coffee and Swedish punch. Being excellent trenchermen, it is very difficult for thp English appetite to keep pace with these descendants of the Vikings. The principal food of the country folk is salmon. Large catches of this fish are made, and form one of the principal sources of occupation and income, being used not only for home consumption, but also for export. It is amusing to read of agreements between employer and employee stipulating that salmon shall not be provided more than three , times a week. Amongst other, industries which take a prominent place are those of iron mining, timber . fijnd. paper manufacture, the last two having risen to such importance owingi -to itlie magnificent forests and hydro-electric power to be found in alb- parts of the country. Not only does Sweden present a country rich and industrious, but full of color and interest to the archaeologist and historian.,!r “

One would imagine the land of the midnight sun might well be content with its summer-time attractions and magic scenery, nbut no, owing to the severity of its? winter the heavy falls of snow and frozen fjords make it a perfect wonderlamjl ski-ing, ioe yachting and all varieties of winter sports rts popularity for these has grown so fast that Sweden has become a dangerous rival to Switzerland, which has for so long reigned supreme in Europe.