THE OKURU RIVER

Hokitika Guardian, 21 June 1929, Page 7

THE OKURU RIVER

A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF

Til ACK AND SCENERY

Those seeking new fields to explore would find a trek up this wild and mountainous country brimful of exciting and pleasant experiences. Tourists drawn by the magnetic attractions of the wildness and beauty of the great West Coast forest, who may reach the isolated Okuru settlement, should not leave, time permitting, without first making this trip. it certainly offers superior rugged scenery. It is not difficult of access but it would be necessary to study l'ivci fords well, which are usually deep. The river for the most part is confined in a boulder bound bed. The source of the river is in the Alps in track, a trip that should be the aim tributaries of the Maltarora rise.

From time to time adventurous spirits conceive the idea of journeying up the Blue river (Makarova) to the West Coast. There are no correct maps available of this country. The first and only visit by a survey party was made in 1883 under Gerald Mueller. It was only a brief visit. The party emerged out into the Haas* valley where the Burke Hut now stands. A few prospectors have penetrated this country and stalkers mad' a brief visit during the 192 ft and 192 F season. An account of their first visit appeared in the “Otago Pa lit Times,” and the second in the “Fishing and Shooting Gazette.” Althese beauty spots are accessible from Wa-naka, Otago, via the Haast Pass track. A trip that should be the aim of all our lovers of the mountains, forests and open air. From Okuru, the first few miles a good vehicle road, follows the wine ing course of the river on the southern bank. The first ten minutes pass es through huge red pine forest willtin occasional glimpes of the with dark tidal waters of the river on tin left. Then three homesteads am' farming lands appear, followed by farm buildings. The high timber b again entered until another ten minutes open green pasture will appear On the loft the river takes a narrow horseshoe bond towards a fine belt ol thick high white pine forest, allow which more fine green pastures nr seen. The track again enters more good timber country where photo; may. he taken. By following the fence on the right where a gate is placed across the road, two minutes will bring in view a large expanse of the "West Coast open pakihi lands, a type of low lying peat swamp. The river here is overspread by birch and rata trees, the latter a blaze of crimson glory in season. Two small flats are eventually reached and crossed and the track again enters the bush and follows the winding river in a northerly direction for a mile. Fim pastures containing Hereford catth will be seen across the river in tin bend. Emerging froni the bush track more pastures are crossed, ail of which is first class dairying land. A hut will he seen close to the river, also a boat for crossing to isolated pastures on the other side. A litth* above the but it will be necessary to pass out of u gate aiul continue outside of the fence where a track will be picked up, which again enters a rough, but pretty bush trackr The river commences to climb and becomes more rocky and rugged. It is sometimes possible to spot a noble stag on the boulders which would take an excellent photograph with such a wild setting. A large whirlpool of deep blue water will be noticed on the left' where- ducks are often seen. 'I he bush now gradually changes to mountain or silver birch forest, broken occasionally, by a- patch of black pine and ribbonwood bush, which is the haunt of native pigeons. Several pretty creeps are crossed anu then the .rack emerges in a back wash of the river. By following this a hundred yards the ford is reached. It is a fair ford but all the Okuru fords require care and judgment in crossing. The track again enters the bush and clearings will bo passed. The track is rather rough in places. On the right a rock-bound lakelet will be seen. This spot was the scene of an annoy- | ing but amusing accident during the packing arrangements of the first deer stalking party (Messrs -T. Wilson and .Black, Dunedin and Guido J. Buck-

ly). Owing to lack of co-operation amongst tile party, and due to the rough nature of the track, the team of paekhorscs found their •way into this little lake before the pac-kman could got ahead of them on the narow track. This pack team was heavily loaded and made their way down the foot of the lake, the tops of llie packs and horses’ ears just showing above the wa'er. One horse to the onlookers resembled a submarine, one moment out of sight and then '•oming to the surface, spouting forth streams of water from ids nostrils. When this horse was recovered it. was exhausted and soon would have drowned.' The horses could not 'land, and after circling round and.round return-, od to where they entered, the only landing place. It is not necessary to describe the state of the food and tb p blankets after six minutes under water. \nrtfier accident quickly followed the last, one pack horse faking over the side of the narrow track in such a position that it was imnoss'ble to get him up, so it was found necessary to roll him further down where he landed in a water Hole, much to the amusement of all present. The track enters and passes over the lower end of a grass, flat and keeps to the riverbed for a short distance, then the river is again crossed. This is not, as a rule, a good ford. As the next few miles are occupied in crossing and recrossing, the tramper would he advised to fieep to the left side of the river, scrambling through the bush where necessary. A little above this ford a fine cataract will be seen and heard on the left. This is the outlet of Lake Douglas, a lake which nestles up in the ranges amidst bush surroundings. It is two miles long and one mile wide at the widest point. It is fed from another smaller, lake (L. Eggling) at a still much higher altitude (4,100 ft.) by Staircase Creek, partly cataract and partly a fall. The top lake in turn drains some extremely rough and broken mountainous country, which appears to have once been the scene of an earthquake. Several small glaciers also fiow into it. No person living to-day, has been known to visit tin's difficult spot. It might be worthy of a visit front tourists of the more energetic type. About two miles above the Douglas cataract a largo fertile flat will appear on the right bank, with an old hut ihereon, which is a suitable spot to boil the billy. The mountain sides here ire almost perpendicular ‘and during wet weather scores of waterfalls will iie seen. The many shades of deep rich green of the mountain sides and avines cannot fail to leave a deep impression on the traveller, especially on i fine morning after rain. At the top >nd of this flat the river' swerves to .he right and is forded here, the rack being picked up near the edge if the hush which leads to another long flat, hut of a lighter formation, ‘.towards the top, on the opposite side i paddock will be noticed, those wishing to remain a few days should apply :o the owners (at Okuru) for the use • of it, as they will prevent the horses from wandering down the river, fwo miles above the paddock there is i small flat suitable for a camp site. On the left will be seen Lindsay Creek which flows from the glacier of the mine name. Two hundred yards above the camp flat the junction of the riv:i’s are seen. By following up the left branch two miles to Princess Creek, and thence up its bed to Mueller’s Pass (1,836 ft.) a magnificent view may be had looking down the Burke river, which flows into the Haast near the Burke Hut (Haast Pass Track). A tramp down this valley will be found to he very rough, much too rough for pleasure. ’ Keas ae plentiful in this country, and will come down to the camp. On Mueller Saddle some interesting alpine forest and vegetation is to he seen. A tramp up the river above Princess Creek, while most interesting, is somewhat rough. A journey up the main river beyond the junction of Princess Creek is well worth while. The traveller would in an hour or two reach open tussock flats. There are two saddles on the ieft range. The second, the highest, gives access into the Young River in Otago, which is a tributary of the Maltaroa, head of Lake Wanaka. This is too high for practical purposes; but nrebably would be found possible by a fully equipped party. The first saddle lias been reached on two occasions. The first to cross was “Wakatipu Jack.” a Maori, about five years before Mueller’s party reached the district. The climb to the saddle would prove difficult from the West Coast side, also the immediate descent from the pass into the tussock flats of the Blue

River, also a branch of the Malcaroa. Some intrepid spirits will undoubtedly tackle tins crossing sooner or later. Unfortunately correct maps of that country are not available. Deer stalkers passed al-iig the main divide from Howe’s Creek last season (1928), and saw two fine stags at the Okuru bead of the basin, through their glasses. No known person has reached the head of the Okuru since Mueller’s visit.

The right branch of the Ngatau or Actor River, is less rough. It is well stocked with red doer, but has never liocn visted by stalkers. This river is still line, plored with the exception of a mile or so above the junction. The beautiful and interesting, but rare, due mountain duck, are still to be ‘ecu. They are not as sliv as mjgjit c supposed, and will float around 'lauiiy, and eager to see all there is o lie seen of the rare intruders of their haunts. They have a sweet musical whistle, not unlike a silver whistle pipe. 'inese birds are stricth nrotcotod, and it is hoped no tourist will attempt to shoot them. The return trip should only be made in settled weather with rivers normal.

Before leaving Okuru, the visitor should not fail to visit the beautiful winding Hapuka Creek which teem wfith .many varieties of ducks and swan. Some fine trout are to be caught and a pleasant pastime might be indulged in catching flounders at night, in an open boat. A boat might be obtained at Okuru for the row up the Hapuka, which should be done with the rising tide, returning with the fall. It ,would bo hard to select a better or move larger scope for the photographer. Ladies should not attempt this trip without experienced male companions or a guide. A guide usually undertakes duties of cooking and attending to the pack-horses and camp, and the general comfort of the party. At the end of a long unaccustomed ride they will appreciate their meals prepared.

Note—Since these notes were written Messrs Hal berg and Smart, two keen and well-known deer stalkers, reached Lite head of both branches of the Okuru River, and traversed most of the high ranges in the vicinity in search of deer-heads in which they were successful in bringing out four trophies. They may also claim the distinction of 1 icing the first men to reach the uoad of the Actor River (left branch of the Okuru). This expedition was made in March and April 1929. ■ ERIC JAMES!