IN FIORDLAND

Hokitika Guardian, 14 June 1929, Page 2

IN FIORDLAND

A GUIDE TO A NEW TOURIST ROUTE TO MILFORD SOUND. CONNECTING FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER, HAAST PASS AND COPELAND TRACKS. (Continued). fourth STAGE. The next stage can only be commenced with a lowering tide to allow sufficient space to get round Big Reef Point and to ford the tidal Gorge river. A track will be found leading up to the one and only ford, which enters the bush about 200 yards north of the river. Some good gold has been found up this river which drains the £ large Gorge river plateau, over . which, a track was once formed but never completed. Long Ridge Point must ibe passed at low tide. Small stretches of the old inside trn ok can be used. For the most part the beach section of the journey from Hope to Big Bay is unavoidable ironstone boulders. Only one section of sandy beach is noticeable just before the Hacket river is reached. No time should be lost from Brown s Refuge (the last hut) till the Hacket is crossed as the tide backs up and makes it, also Ryan’s crock, unfordable. There is no such danger once tho Hacket is crossed but the going to Big Bay landing is extremely rough and there may be many delays". Some parts are extremely boggy and much overgrown with dense vegetation and moreover is very difficult to follow. Once round the Awarua Point there is less vegetation but the boulders are larger and more numerous. It is a very long and tedious day walking with or without horses and can only be accomplished when tides allow an early start. When this is not possible it would be necessary to make two .stages of it, breaking the journey at Hacket. river. South of the Gorge river there are Targe numbers of wild caitle including some ferocious looking polled bulls. At Awarua Point, graves may be noticed, where men rowing from Jackson Bay to Martin’s Bay in an open boat, were wrecked, and buried there. .t At Big Bay landing there is a Government landing shed with bunks and fireplace therein./ Several old long neglected miners huts may be seen around including a ■ few overgrown fruit trees. FIEEH stage. A mile further the Awarua river is crossed which marks the boundary of Westland and Otago. Just beyond a homestead and Btockyards will be noticed on a sandy bank. This is occupied by Mr Gunn’s inusterers at certain times of the year, and was once occupied by B family by the ' name'of Green. I don’t think the owner would object to people camping ’ there for the night providing dry wood was left inside. This would be better- than tho landing Bhed. For the next three milee one passes over an excellent sandy beach, which at low tide stretches out to sea many hundreds of yards. It would be a great asset' to some of our coastal towns and also suitable for a motor or horse racecourse. Looking inland from here beyond a stretch of fertile land at present covered in shrub and bush, the bare red rock faces of part of the Red Hill Ranges may he seen. The Pyke river which • is crossed later in the journey flows at the foot of it, where also lies Lakes Wilmot and Alabasta. The track from Big Bay to Martinis Bay, if a track you can call it, is rather rough but passable and is noted for its luxuriant growth of King

tree ferns. The track passes round a ? low long point protruding out to sea. The Hollyford mouth is just below it. A wild and impressive scene meets the eyo on'this section of the journey especially when the sea is rough The route now follows up the banks of the Hollyford until a small creek with a\wide bed is seen on the left. Hero it is necessary-to turn inland a little, through clearings until a track will appear. This followed will bring the traveller t 6 a large clearing where cattle usually graze. At the far end towards the river an old homestead is seen. This is known as “George’s,” named after an early settler, its former owner. It is a splendid spot and a useful old house. There is excellent fishing quite handy, also flounders at the river mouth. J Those who would like to see the sight of another human being, and who would no doubt be. pleased to see them, might, by going down the river till opposite a deep Bluggish creek entering opposite is seen, and there firing a plug of gelignite, which is to bo found in the old house. Gunn’s residence is two miles from this spot and is approached by rowing up*the mentioned creek. There may be a boat at “George’s” which could be used to get to the Martin’s Bay homestead. On some of the old maps there is a track marked going inland from the Awarua mouth. This is not practical and would probably prove dangerous to try-it. SIXTH STAGE, To pick up the track from “George’s” it is necessary to leave

tho river and make towards the far end of the clearing here a bush track will bo picked up. By following this, Lake McKerrow will be reached, a fine sheet of dark water surrounded by snow-capped mountains, the most prominent being Mts. Tutoko and Madelene both on the left. For a mile or two tile beach shore of the Lake is followed past the remains of a wharf all that remains of Jamestown/ There is excellent scenery in the lower Hollyford especially through the bush track up the side of the lake. The tree fern glades here are magnificent but unfortunately the track is ill-graded and extremely steep in places, too steep to ride horses over it. They can of course be led as the track was well made. Several very rough creeks have to be crossed. A party of riders of six or more could probably arrange with Mr Gunn to get the use of his boat to take up the saddles and packs while one or two go up the track with the horses. Kowhai grows luxuriantly on the lower shores of the lake and is worthy of special notice. At the head of the lake an old hut stands, once an early settler’s dwelling at Martin’s Bay settlement. It contains bunks and utensils and is a good camp site, also good lnrse feed in the summer mouths. If it is possible the Pykc might be found to be the best camp site especially if it were decided to walk up the Pykc track to Lake Alabasta which is well worth the time spent. It cakes neaily two hours from the hut at the head of the lake .to Pyke river which may he crossed by a cage on w ;cs slung across a narrow par*, of the river, a short distance up. This is often hard to work. If a boat can bo found the crossing U much eat-.et, but care should he taken not to get down stream too far as there is a small rapid. There should be no difficulty in getting the horses to swim behind the boat. There is good horsefeed around the hut. It would be wise to avoid rowing after dark. SEVENTH STAGE. After paying a short visit to Lake Alabasta, the Middle Hut will be found to be a suitable stage, a distance of roughly fourteen miles. The track passes over Homer Saddle. Here the track has been gutted out by waterways and other parts are a little boggy. The Hidden Falls Hut is about halfway and is the best of the Hollyford huts, all of which are owned by Mr Gunn, of Martin’s Bay and which are well stocked with tools, utensils and provisions. Dry wood should always be left in plenty. After leaving ‘this hut the track will be picked up in the left upper corner of the clearing. The Middle Hut is right alongside the track, a stone’s throw from the river. EIGHTH STAGE. Shortly after leaving this hut riders ford the river and pass up the river for a hundred yards or more and then croßss back again and enter >» bush track. The river is again crossed two miles Further up where a clearing appears,crossing at the top bend and recrossing thirty yards up. The horse trail then follows up an open flat, at the top of which the river is agai.n crossed. Two hundred yards on that Bide brings a shelter in sight known as “Deadmans”. Another two hundred yards and the river is crossed for the last time and the track is defined till Howden: is reached. Before the last crossing from the north side is made a track will be seen on the left which leads to Lake Harris and the Routeburn.

Wekas are still plentiful in the Hollyford. This river which is similar to the Okuru in many respects has a narrow bed and is enclosed by high mountains, Mt. Christinia near the head, being the most prominent. The scenery in the upper portion of the valley is good but does not come up to that to be found in the lower valley .Contrary to previous reports the Hollyford is not so boggy and mosquito infested as has been mode to believe.

The Gireenstone and Hollyford tracks have been fully described in Geo. Moir’s “Guide to Tourist tracks of Great Southern Lakes” which is issued by the Otago Expansion League. It is rather a stiff climb up to Lake Howden, which draws into the Hollyford. Nearby stands a good Government hut. It is also the junction of several tourist routes including the upper Hollyford, Homier Saddle, Gertrude Saddle, Grave-Talbot Pass, Routeburn and Greenstone Valley track. The latter is the horse track to Lake Wakatipu which is a fairly long day’s journey*

LORE PASS TRACK* \ The writer has not yet traversed the Lore Pass route to Glade House. This is a; foot track and not practical for. riders at present. Fourteen hours are occupied in travelling there fore 'two dayd ate occupied before Glade house is reached. This route has been fully described in Geo. Moir’s book previously mentioned. Particulars may also be had from the Queenstown Progressive League who also arrange guides. The latter is absolutely necessary. From Glade house the well-known track via McKinnon Pass to Milford Sounds starts. GRAVE-TALBOT PASS (5,600 ft.) 'A (more route to JMilforH, Sounds but it demands much more experience plus physical fitness. This pass which is approached via Homer Saddle, is of more recent discovery. An alpine guide could be obtained to pilot parties from Howden via Dore

Pass, thence over the Milford Track, returning by the Grave-Talbot to Howden. Raders from | Franz Josef or Wanaka may then continue their journey down the Greenstone. Trampers may prefer to return via the Routeburn track. The horse track to Lake Wakatipu passes Lake Uckellar, which though close to Lake Howden drains into the Greenstone river. The upper reaches of the Greenstone is chiefly open tussock country, a contrast to the bush of the past twelve or fourteen days. The lower portion boasts of red beech forest equal to that of Paradise. Lake Rere which is passed before Wakatipu is reached is a pretty spot. The track emerges at Elfiin Bay, which is a half days ride to Glenorcliy at the head of the lake.

The Dart and Ress rivers, also the Cappel and Greenstone have to be forded first. The former is a substantial stream and the assistance of Mr Bryant, of Kinlock, should be sought to obtain direction. A horse track continues down to Queenstown. Horses may be shipped at a small cost.

Once Howden is readied the traveller has a number of routes to choose from besides the overland routes to Milford. The Hollyford does not offer many difficulties to strangers but the coastal section of the journey outlined should never be undertaken without a guide, then only with suitable equipment and provisions landed beforehand at Okuru and Big Bay by the Government steamer.

The Haast Pass track and the Haast-Franz Josef section have been undertaken without a guide, where there is at least one member of the party with previous experience and even then it i 9 often necessary to engage local people to point out vivei fords, etc. Tho round trip from Wanaka, returning via Queenstown would occupy at least sixteen days. From Makarora, head of Lake Wanaka to Elfin Bay and Wakatipu, only five occupied dwellings are actually passed en route and these are during the first two days. Three days will ho occupied in traversing unoccupied, trackless and densely wooded country. This stretch was visited by two men in tho winter of 1927. . accompanied by the writer, the first party to pass that way since 1922. No less than 24 rivers have to he forded on the round trip (Wanaka return), many of these several times, besides scores of creeks and lagoons. The Passes include Haast, Martyr, Homer, Howden and Crown Terrace. Also ten lakes and numerous waterfalls and cataracts. The first tourist party made the trip from Wanaka to Wakatipu last summer piloted by the writer. No ladies have gone further south than the Cascade river, and very few there, and then some years ago when, a small population inhabited that country.

The writer has been approached with the request to guide ladies through this coming summer .hut nothing has yet been settled. It Is essential to have provisions landed beforehand as much of the route is too rough and strenuous for loaded packhorses.

Throughout the whole route I think the lake and bush scenery in the lower Hollyford hard to beat. The Haast Pass track and Cascade valley has also some fine scenery. It is remarkable too for its bird life, for many species now non-existent in most parts of New Zealand, may be seen in numbers south of the Cascade river. Trout are abundant in all the West Coast rivers. EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING. Only gear absolutely necessary should be taken on this trip. Stout nailed boots, cord breeches, drill shirts and leggings should be worn, and ground sheets and water-proof oilskins are essential. Extra socks (several pair) and under clothing should be. taken. Two light blankets are sufficient during the summer months. A light tent and fly should be taken, but may not be necessary. Three billies (different sizes), mugs, tin plates, knives, forks, etc., are necessary. Everything should be carried in water-proof bags. Spare rope, laces, pins, bandages, fruit salts, vasilene, etc., should bo added to the list. Too many inexperienced burn their boots by placing them too near the fire. When camping during fine weather blankets should be spread out and hung up otherwise they will become badly fly-blown. Mosquito netting should be taken though it may not bo required. A light l axe and one-hand slasher is necessary. A spare pair of drill trousers might with advantago be included, also carpet slippei's to ease the feet during the evening. Smokers should take a good supply of Itobacco, with a further supply landed with stores at Big Bay, also a spare pipe. Soap, towels, shaving gear are of course included. Anglers may carry rod and line. Old clothes are recommended for the trip, with better ones posted to Glenarchy to await your* arrival. The sleeping bag should be of light water-proof material. A few tins of “Must-Die” would be found useful where there are mosquitoes. A large (fcpply of films should be carried as there is unlimited scope for the photographer; One pair or binoculars will be found useful. Further particulars of those kind of trips And particulars regards guides, horses, etc., may he had at the Government Tourist Bureau. There is a White Star service now operating at Wanaka supplying guides and pack teams for this kind of travel. WEATHER. We have all heard much of the I

“Wet West Coast.” While it is true there is a heavy rainfall, it is equally true that there is a good amount of fine, mild and sunny weather. When it does ram it makes a good job of it and four' inches and sometimes more fall in a few hours. The water quickly gets away and the sun conies out with a cloudless sky and everything looking so fresh within a few hours.

I advise travellers especially strangers, never to leave cslnip to commence a day’s journey in face of a threatening northerly storm. Ilie chances are the destination is not reached, the day’s 'trip spoilt, and the whole outfit ruined with rain, besides the danger of swollen creeks and the discomfort of a thorough drenching. Where a doubtful ford is encountered, one of the party, who is' a strong swimmer, should first try the ford on the highest horse. A life jacket, fitting like a sleeveless waistcoat, is being sold by Air W. McCarthy, Dunedin, well suited for travelling where rivers are numerous. STORES. One member of the party should be appointed in full command of this important part of the arrangements. Canned goods should be purchased in sizes sufficient for one meal only. A number of water-proof bags will be found very useful. Tea, "baking powder, salt, etc., should bo in tins with tight lids. Oatmeal, rice, sago, dates, raisins, sultanas and plain chocolate should form the main part of the menu. Bacon is easily carried. Flour should of course be carried as there are camp ovens in nearly every hut.

Those “doing” the Haast Pass track to the Franz Josef and Fox Glaoiers or to The Hermitage via Copeland Pass and Hot Springs, do not require the long list of stores and equipment described. Where escorted tours are arranged the provisions, blankets, etc., are. usually supplied.

The writer'will bo pleased to give further information to prospective tourists for these tracks upon application, addressed to Makarora, Lake Wanaka.

ERIC JAMES