IN FIORDLAND

Hokitika Guardian, 13 June 1929, Page 7

IN FIORDLAND

A GUIDE TO A NEW TOURIST ROUTE TO MILFORD. SO UNO.

CONNECTING FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER, lIA AST T ASS AN D COPELAND TRACKS.

So little is known of r tlie lower portion of Westland that it is no wonder the existence of a direct route to Milford Sound from the West Coast resorts, the Hermitage via Copeland Pass and Wanalca via the Haast Pass, has been overlooked. The very fact that this extensive unpopulated country may only produce revenue from tourist traffis for perhaps many years to come, points out the wisdom of the Government seizing the onlv source of revenue offering.

If this route were opened up and given publicity it would eventually rank amongst the foremost of New Zealand’s tourist tracks, .besides offering the tourist an important connecting link between the mentioned popular routes and Fiordland.

It should be our aim to make all our tours circular or connecting to enable the tourist to enter fresh country with every mile. 'The Government who control steamer, railway and accommodation houses on the Milford end of this suggested route should obtain increased traffic therefrom.

The route suggested is nearly the continuation of the Great Main South Road in Westland and its important connecting track over the Haast Pass from Otago. It may surprise many to know that a good motor road exists for nearly fifty miles south of the present motor service terminus, but which is not practical nt present owing to .the absence of three*or four bridges, though a few cars have done it .in the winter months Only another such distance, now a bridle track, has to he widened before motor traffic can reach the junction with the Haast Pass track to Otago, which is a little over sixty miles further to Wanaka. The linking up |by a vehicle road is not the enormous under-, taking many believe.I do not intend here to describe the track from Lake Wanaka to where it meets the Great Main South Road on the West Coast, as this has previously been described on various occasions under the title of “A. Forest Route,” and other articles. FIRST STAGE. Presuming the traveller has reached the Haast Accommodation House or better still the Accommodation House at Oktiru, which is within sound of the Tasman Sea, the next stage for Fiordland takes a southei• !y direction along the warm, seascented beaches, (once the scene of prosperous gold diggings), for a distance of nine miles, until sign posts are seen, one pointing to the and the other to the ford. Tf it is low tide and no fresh in the river, the latter direction may he taken. Prior to leaving the hoarding house travellers should obtain particulars o f the ford as it sometime* changes an- 1 its present position might ho misleading. Jt is usually tm to the saddle flans hut has not ranid current. o’Tacross, the road is followed down to Oktiru township and port, one mile distant. If the ferry track is taken it will be necessary to employ the ferryman. This can be arranged by ringing up before leaving the Haast. Travellers who do not intend to break their journey at Okuru could ferry across the combined Okuru and Turnhull rivers, where they meet'. But if the fords are used they should obtain local direction where to ford the •Turnbull and also the deep sluggis’Hapuka creek, which flows into it. The joint waters of these rivers and creek form a wide expanse of water a.!, high tide and produce splendid reflections of the high pine forest and the Southern Alps in the background. Out at sea some three to four miles will ho seen Open Bay Islands, a boat shelter and bird sanctuary. Those who have time will find it well worth their while to obtain a boat and row up the Hapuka creek with the tide. It offers magnificent forest scenery and is well stocked w ith native birds, especially ducks and s.vans. Tt is deep and sluggish and winds in and out under largo overhanging pines for several miles. A mile and a half south of Okuru will he seen •i number o! rocks known as Mussel• Point-. Near it will be found large hills of old mussel! shells, probably tin* remains of former Maori occupation. Some fine specimens of Maori boo's and implements have been unearthed in this region. A f-w ounces of gold were dug out of a hole while roadmaking was in progress near here. The track continues along tlr' foreshore, sometimes along "ion*patches, an 1 sometimes through the forest, always ringing with the soim of native birds. A lagoon is eventually roughed which abounds with ducks and swans. Another two mil™ *ilong the shore of this lagoon, the T r a i t of o river, which flows from Mn”ut Asnrun'U is reachel. Her resides a res'dewt ferrvman wan wi" brag across the boat in answer to - This is a large and mnddv coloured river. It is so-Aimes for’• aide hut strangers should never enter without directions from the f-v-rv-e-«n. It- is always deen on the far shF. This forry'uan’s qmirrtrs boas** a good garden, being shollorod am 1 warm. It is known t« grow se-er-* 1-bids of vegetables all the vow ismi’--’ Strawberries thrive remarkably wo]' hut unfortunately so do mnsiy’Umw and sair'fl-s. During warm oFhfe flie ferryman finds it imeoss'hle to sleep even with the aid of nets and

he is kept occupied making a smoke barrage to check them. Some excellent trout (also salmon) exist in this river in spite of is cold snow water. The lower portion of the river winds through dense forest. The upper valley contains wide spacious flats, as yet, “no mail’s land,” though not difficult of access. The next five miles passes along the most beautiful beach, I know always very warm, and sheltered by the Jackson headland. It is rich in many varieties of native vegetation. With a background of pines, birch and climbing rata, the latter a mass of crimson flower m season, with tall lancewood, cabbage tree, koropi, native holly, flax, A young red, white and silver pines, mildmilci, and several varieties of many colour-berried shrubs. A wonderful sight to behold. Sub-alpine plant o are seen mixed with fern tv and coastal vegetation and well stockec with native pigeons and other birds. The Arawnta river is reached, five miles distant, even larger than the last and is controlled by the Waitoto ferryman, who accompanies travellers and puts them across upon request. The boat crossing is two' miles up the. river, it is sometimes fordable. Opposite the crossing will he found the last remaining house of the ill-fated Arawata Settlement. This old building which contains two bedrooms is usually used to camp in overnight. There are two horse paddocks. A track on the right gives access to' Jackson’s Bay, a distance of six to seven miles and is well worth visiting. The track passes what was once many small farms (10 acres sections) but now mostly overgrown with gorse, blackberries and other imported weeds. It then rises and climbs round tho steep densely wooded hillsides over-looking the Bay. The landing boasts a spacious landing shed, containing several bunks and a fire place. There is also good grazing around. Some good fishing can lie had off the rocks and crayfish are very plentiful. So also are native birds especially the penguin, distinguished by its harsh night cry. -SECOND STAGE. The route continues up the river from the Arawata house, by a well formed track. Some two. miles distant a. track branches on the' right to a small lake nestling in the forest. It is only a short distance and- worth a visit. Another mile the river bed narrows and a large rock on which trees are growing towers in the centre of the river-bed. This is an easy and natural bridge site and is marked on the. map as such. Eventually the Jackson river is reached, a pretty blue little river which flows from .the Red Hills in the South. It is up this river the track now follows. It contains fine scenery right to its head. The track rises gently, crossing the Martyr Saddle and drops into the valley of the same name, below, cross ing the Martyr Gorge, by a wooden bridge built of Kawaka timber. The trail passes over the western slopes of the Roc!" Hills and drops gradually into the spacious Cascade Valley into which flows the Martyr River, The Cascade contains some excellent grazing land and is capable of supporting a lnrge farming population. The upper valley flows from the Red Hill ranges, the red rock faces of which can be seen from the track. On the right will be seen tho Cascade p’ateau, many hundreds of acres in extent which like the upper valley, is unoccupied Crown Lands. Cattle, sheep, and horses graze in the valley and look well. A house and wool shed is passed on the right where once lived a family, hut now only occupied a few weeks in the year.

This valley is the scene of the supposed buried treasure, said to have been brought here and buried bv smugglers.. A company was formed many years ago to seek this treasure which was supposed to have been raw gold, but without success. Their tools are still to he found on the snot where the search was abandoned. The saw, sawn in a tree and marked upon the chart upon which the company movements were based was later found by a local settler almost covered hv the growth of the tree. TTio treasure is still undiscovered if it ever existed A large olivene face on the hills in the hack ground produces a brilliant glitter in the early morning sun, and is known locally as the Cascade I)ia’"''iid. On the rocky almost inaccessible coast, north of the Cascade month, exists a large seal rookery. During one open season some years hack hundreds wore slaughtered by local residents. Flax is plentiful and grows luxuriantly throughout this valley and was once the scene of a flax mill which faded on account o| the hi oh cost of getting the fibre away. \ Her passing the Cascade house above mentioned the piekin" of the 'ruck requires some care. The Martyr is crossed just afer passing tho

house and after passing over flax and covered flats it is again crossed and recrossed. its junction with the .Cascade -will eventually be noticed. •The Cascade is forded straight across the river-bed to the foot- of the hill where a rough bush track will be picked up. This is a line piece of bush and the traveller will probably hear the rare cry of the weka. A few miles and a paddock is reached in which stands a hirt. This is suitable for a camping place, it is a private hut and would be as well to obtain permission to use it from, the owners at Okuru. THIRD STAGE. It might be as well to mention here no person lives on this route after leaving the ferryman at Waitoto with the exception of Gunns at Martin Bay, the recent successors to Messrs McKenzie brothers who were born and put their whole life in there The Government steamer calls twice a year, the only means of communication with tho outside world. An idea of remoteness of this district might be gleamed when I state the Great War had been in progress nearly eight month.? before the McKenzies were aware of the fact.

After leaving the hut. the continuation of the track will be picked up near the edge of the bush. It is nearly a dozen miles, emerging at the mouth of the Hope River. It is boggy in places and riders will often have to dismount. A wide creek (bed is crossed and it will require a keen observer to pick the track. The creek is followed on for a short distance. Wekas are often to he seen busily engaged in seeking food and will most likely be as unconcerned about your presence as a farmyard hen. The Hope is crossed a few hundred yards above the mouth and a narrow ovorerrown track is followed round the bluff to the sea beach, which is followed till tho mouth of tho Hollyford is reached. For tlie most part riders must lead their steeds as large stretches of large iron-stone boulders have to ho crossed. Shoeing tools and nails are necessary as here shoes are easily cast and horses would quickly become Jaime. In the Hope, valley, a quartz reef was found, also a ni.ckle lode, but neither, were analysed. .Colpurs of gqkl . can be found in nearly all these rivers and creeks. The Gorge river in particular offers, a good claim to the adventurous spirit who is prepared to go so far back. With a companion I washed a few dishes acre, each one .washing several. coarse pieces, as much as five pieces to the dish, a little smajjer than'grains of rice. 'Fine gold accompanies black sand when combed down, near the Hope river and has proved , very rich, but before 'arrangements could be mado to wash, it, it has been washed awav by the s.ea. Nickel ore is often available in quantity, also accompanied with black sand and is worked and saved similar to gold. A quart? reef is known to exist up the Jackson river near where the track crosses. The result of an analysis taken resulted in seven pennyweights to the lode, accompanied with a good percentage of silver. W ith road access attempts would no doubt be made to develop it. Good gold is known to exist on the plateau north of the Cascade but death claimed the prospector before he could return to develop it. A prominent bluff known locally as ■Steen Head has to he crossed by r rough track which emerges at the month-'of the Fork river (or creek). Another hour’s tramp and a hut will be found almost buried in lci-ki and vegetation. The writer placed a signpost into position. Should it have been blown clown there is little possibility of the hut being seen travelling from north to south. It would be necessary to look back every few hundred yards as it can he seen fron tho south. It is a comfortable little iron hut, hint little feed for horse; around. A block will be seen jusl before leaving Steep Head which mils' be put up to prevent the horses wandering hack. Kiwis and kakapos wil’ be occasionally heard here and tin ka-kas keep up an incessant chatter on the high timber behihd the hut. (To he continued.)