THE HAAST PASS TRACK

Hokitika Guardian, 12 June 1929, Page 7

THE HAAST PASS TRACK

TO THE FOX AND FRANZ JOSEF GLAUERS FROM THE GREAT SOUTHERN LAKES.

(Continued)

THIRD STAGE.

This stage offers a problem to tourist traffic on account of the distance (50 miles). ' Mahitahi is the stage usually undertaken' by local squatters on fresh horses, which is the only

residence on that large stretch. Lt is not found practical to attempt this stage unless the rider is experienced. Even then it is too far for pleasure. There is a Government hut at the .Yioeraki or Blue river which will be found a more convenient stage, but this necessitates carrying blankets and provisions. ‘ Mosquitoes may prove an annoyance. A good site may bo selected on the shores of Lake Paringa, but a tent must be carried. At present the Moeraki river is usually chosen.

' After boating or fording the Haast river, the track follows a turf stretch along the shore. There is a series^of lakes and lagoons on the right in the forest, where water-fowl are numerous. Flax grows luxuriantly along this beach and was once the scene of a flax mill. Some hundreds of diggers were operating here in the early days. The next river, the Maori and Wiata, nine miles north of the Haast, is noted for the large shoals of whitebait that enter its mouth during the season and it has been thought to be a suitable base for a canning industry. The Wiata joins the Maori a mile inland. The former drains the Matakitaki Range and the latter the lakes previously mentioned. A bridge may be used higher up at the junction, should the river be found to be unfordable. Even then the Wiata lias to ibe forded. This however is not as a rule a serious obstacle. The. Maori valley is swampy and low-lying, growing some good belts of the valuable white pine. The river lias to be crossed four times, and immediately after the fourth a bnsh track is followed for the rest of the day. The tree and ground ferns grow luxuriantly here, in many places overspreading the track. After passing a delapidated building the track commences to rise on its winding eight mile course to the Iron Hut, on a, saddle from which can be seen the outline of the coast for miles south. Copper Creek is crossed, another of the many serious obstacles in bad weather. Before reaching the saddle a large slip is crossed by a narrow, steep track. This awesome looking place is known as “Slippery Face,” and requires a roadman in constant attendance. Riders should always dismount and walk across. The Government hut on the saddle may he utilised for lunch and boiling the billy. The next few miles is level but winding round the 'many sharp spurs and gullies. After passing a second saddle the track commences its long zig-zag descent to the Blue or Moeraki river. Between the two saddles there is a good opportunity of observing the alpine vegetation on all sides, as this altitude, though hush clad, is much higher than the Haast Pass. The Blue river will be heard long before it is seen and when first seen it is far below, narrow and bouldery. It is spanned by a good timber bridge. It is necessary to place rails across the track to keep the horses from wandering either way, when ' camping here. The blue duck may sometimes be heard and seen. It displays u sweet, full, silvery whistle. They arc inquisitive and will hang round for hours. Even the most confirmed poachers will keep their “sights’’ off this beautiful and rare bird. A smoke barrages should lie made to keep the mosquitoes at a distance. An. endless fight, ending in flight, with these annoying insects, has been described by Maude Morland in her “Through South Westland.” This river flows into a beautiful bush-clad lake before it reaches the sea (11 miles). It is accessible by a. rough track and well worth a visit if time permits. The use of a but near it could no doubt be obtained. It offers good fishing and was once inhabited by Maoris. Red deer are rapidly overspreading this country, which will no doubt be opened aS stalking country in the near future. The first head was shot there in the 11)28 season. It was a heavy Royal bead 45in long, 40in wide, and Gin in beam. FOURTH STAGE. The chief feature‘of this stage of the journey is the number of rivers that have to be forded. IF these riverl; were bridged cars could come to within a few miles of the Blue diver. The first ball' of the stage is through high, typical West Coast forest, and during the latter part some fanning lands and the sea shore are seen. The most outstanding spot is the placid. silent waters of the beautiful Lake Pnringn. This lake is equal to Kanieri for scenery and reflections, and offers superior attractions in fish and bird life than any of the West Coast lakes. Brown trout were liberated many years ago and have grown to enormous sizes, there being abundance of natural food. Pukaki, grey duck and black swan are plentilul. It is miv opinion were this beauty spot made more acoessiffle, plus accommodation and launch services, it would attract and maintain hundreds of tourists and sportsmen every season. It is fed hy smaller lakes towards the coast and its outlet, is by Hall river, a mile below the road line.

There is some good farming land in the Paringa Valley anil was once the scene of an Irish settlement. Now it is held by one run holder who also holds the Blue and Mahitahi valleys and intermediate and adjoining country. This valley with better communication would support ninny dairy farmers and a fairly large factory. It also contains many minerals, of which an outcrop of good steam coal may be the most important, stibnet galena, lithographic stone, marble, kerosene, shale and limestone have been found. Some fine patches of fine and alluvial gold has also been won. ' Flax grows abundantly, and sonic excellent belts of first-class milling timber exist. A whitebait canning factory has operated successfully at the river mouth. The river crossing is not always a good ford. If in doubt, travellers without guides, should ring up the Mahitahi Post Office and get information of this, and the Mahitahi ford, which is crossed also. The ’phone will be found in an old building one mile south of the river, a little off the track oil the left.

A Government hut stands between the Paringa and Mahitahi river and has proved useful to travellers getting stuck up with high rivers. The Mahitahi farm house is prettily situated facing the forest clad slopes of the Bannackburn Range, which in season is a blazing glory of red bloom of the Rata. A good lunch may be had at Mahitahi at a reasonable price. Continuing on, first through good grass paddocks, then- high forest, and the sea beach is again seen. Travellers are at present compelled to use the sea beach for a stretch, said to be because of objection by the local Maoris towards road construction, it being a sacred burial ground, Looking back towards the south, the Bruce Bay landing rnay be seen, also slieds, etc. Two bush cemetries are to be seen before Bruce Bay settlement is reached, all that now remains of a one time diggings. Lake Kini may be reached hy walking through the bush from the sea shore. Hie road eventually turns inland through more fine pine forests till the settlement comes in sight. The majority of the inhabitants are halfcaste Maoris. From here the first glimpse of Mt. Cook may be had on ■i fine morning. Jacob’s river is forded, a smooth clear stream, then more bush till Mr S. Fiddian’s house appears in a large clearing. This old gentleman is known as the “Grand Old Man of South Westland.” He is approaching his 93rd birthday, and came to the Coast in an open boat from Riverton during the early diggings, where he. carried on the calling of a storekeeper. His acts of kindness to his ifellowmen are known far and wide.

Two hours riding brings the rider to the wide bed of the Karangarua River, which requires some care in fording. It rises in the Alps, near the Hermitage.

The Copeland is a branch up which the beautiful mountainous track follows to the little known yet splendid Copeland Hotsprings and Pass to the Hermitage.

The ride to the hotsprings (14 miles is well worth visiting, a good, three roomed Government Hut is situated alongside and the sub-alpine vegetation is exquisite. A hundred yards from the springs, 2 in number, flow the snow waters of the Copeland River. Also can be had the best view of. Sefton and Footstool, a truly magnificent si gilt. The Karangarua accommodation house is situated a mile from river and is also starting place for the Copeand Track. The proprietor also acts as ferryman when necessary. Little Paringa flax grows abundantly there.

Travellers from either the Glaciers or the Cold Lakes should never leave before first making the trip up to these splendid Springs surrounded as they are in never forgotten scenery. FIFTH STAGE. It takes a good 1J- hours to reach the Cook River, mostly bush scenery. The latter portion passing through liieh forest and fernery and deserves sepecial attention, being similar to the main road to Franz Josef.

From the wide riverbed one of the finest panorama views may he had of the snow-capped Alps, including Alts. Cook, Tasman, Douglas, Hardinger and others.

' Passing up the valley, the Fox Glacier comes into full view. The Cook River is a dangerous river to novices and should not lie attempted in the summer without a local guide. The summer hear melts the vast fields of snow bringing it rapidly down. The streams are many and swift, and always discoloured, preventing the bottom from been,, seen. Quick-sand, especially after much rain must be watched for as in the case on several of the southern river beds, the tnlorffioue line must not be used as a guide. The Cook’s fords sometimes ehmme daily. After leaving tbt riverbed, the road passes fine pastures until finally the now Fox Glacier hostel appears.

Tourists may be well advised to stnv n(vii* tl jo-lit at this hostel and see one of the world’s most wonderful sights—the Fox Glacier which is handy to botli hostel and road. Guides and equipment may ho arranged for at the hostel and a tramp up over the ire fill’s and crevasses will give you thril’s to lie experienced nowhere else. The Chancellor Ridge Hut is not a long .lav’s 1 ramp where one may remain overnight amidst, splendid mountain scenery and where scores of varieties of alpine flowers flourish. There is a colony of wekas here which have fortunately escaped the ravages of the weaslo and stoat. These inquisitive birds will enter the hut and tents and care should be used where valuables

are laid especially anything that shines or glitters because these birds have a special liking for such things and won’t hesitate about claiming it.

There are many fine climbs and walks from this comfortable hostel. The walk to Lake Alatliieson has much to offer, also the riding trip to the old gold mining township of Gillespie’s, on the sea coast, which once, boasting a large pomvlation, where only two old miners now reside. The remains of a church still stand. This spot is accessible by a bush track, eight miles in length. There are lagoons, and old pack tracks to Five Mile and Okarito. from which splendid views of the Ales may be bad on a clear morning and at sunset. The remainder of the journey to the Franz Josef glacier is mountainous and has been truly described as the most wonderful stretch of motor route in tile world. Wchcka is now fhe motor terminus. The road climbs to the Cook Saddle and descends shortly, zig-zag fashion into the "Wnikukupu valley, ffio river of which is crossed by a bridge. The view seen 'between the trees during the descent, of the bouldery river below beggare description. In the season the .whole mountain sides are red with Rata bloom.

Rising from the last valley another saddle is crossed and the traveller winds down into the Oeweroa valley, another indescribable sight from the road above. This stream is unbridged but a good ford has been made. A Government hut and good grazing are available for those wishing to spend a day or two in the fastness of the mountains.

Again rising to a third saddle, the road descends into the Waiho valley and within two hours the Franz Josef Hotel is reached, situated at the foot of the mountains, just beyond the roaring, river and in view of the famous glacier.

Guides and equipment are available at the hotel for excursions on the glacier and surrounding mountains. The White Star'services have a fine fleet of cars leaving daily in the summer for Hokitika and Otira or Arthur’s Pass. This is undoubtedly one of the finest motor trips in the Dominion.

There are quite a variety of trips by horseback and motor from the hotel, particulars of which may be bad from the White Star Tourist Services Ltd.' One of the most popular is the motor trip to the Okarito Lagoon. Riders from Wanaka usually post a change of clothing to Waiho Gorge Post Office. Many, after visiting the glacier prefer to return by the horses to Karangarua and from there commence the walking tour over the Copeland Pass to the Hermitage. The alpine guides from the Hermitage connect with the horse service operating from Wanaka at Welcome Flat, where the hot springs are situated. This point is as far as horses can be taken.

Wherever one wanders within this land of romance and beauty there is something wonderful to be seen.

Many are the valleys and gullies yet to 'be explored and many beautifulful sights have yet to be seen-.

Southern Westland is yet an unknown country awaiting the visit of all lovers of nature. ERIC JAMES.