IN SOUTH WESTLAND

Hokitika Guardian, 30 January 1929, Page 2

IN SOUTH WESTLAND

ON THE FRANZ JOSEPH GLACIER

CLIMBING AMONG ICE AND SNOW

(Wellington “Dominion.”)

“I, thought 1 knew my New Zealand fairly well, although there are a few corners in it that i haven’t explored yet,” writes “Novice” of bis holiday experiences in Westland. “Wailio and its adjacent glacier was one of those spots. “1 am almost ashamed to think that I have lived in my native country for over sixty years, yet, until a few days ago l , knew next to nothing of the charms of South Westland ill general, and Fra A z Josef Glacier in particular. Greymouth and Hokitika, and far-fam-ed Kumara, I certainly bad seen years ago. But of what lay south of Hokitika 1 was woefully ignorant. Like many another New Zealander, maybe I bad dim notion that Westland below Hokitika was a narrow strip of land wedged in between the Tasman Sea board and the foothills of the Southern Alps.

“Now I have seen and my allusion is dispelled. Between the many rivers that run into the sea there are extensive flats where timber mills and dairy factories flourish. In these rivers the disciple of Izaak Walton may reap his much-prized harvest of brown and rainbow trout.

“The devotee of shooting finds snipe from Siberia at this itme of the year, and later on swans, grey duck, and teal, to say nothing of native pigeons and pnkeko, that the true sportsman may not kill.

“The roads leading down from Grey and Hokitika are by no means the worst in New Zealand. After leaving the railhead at Ross the tourist finds himself travelling at 1 frequent intervals through bush, such as must gladden the heart of any nature lover. At times oil the flats, and oftencr on the hills, mere is a variey and wealth of trees and ferns that entrance even those most familiar with the Domiiu»ii.

“Having been told something about Franz Joseph by a member of my family who visited it last year, I bad conjured scenes of the “Razorbaok,” and the yawning crevasses over or by which the climber must go. But when is the reality ever like the dream?

“Leaving Hari Hari (fifty miles from Hokitika) on a recent morning at eight o’clock in the company of a genial doctor, who acted as chauffeur, as well as friend and philosopher, we made the run over Mount Hercules, over snow rivers (one or two of which have been recently bridged), past Lakes Walwpo and Mnpourika, until in two • hours from starting we pulled up at the comfortable Wailio Hostel. The party ‘for the ice’ was just leaving when we arrived, so we shed our walking shoes and donned the ice boots, without which none may venture upon the glacier, and armed with alpenstocks set off on tne three-mile walk to the Glacier Hut. The going is good, and the tv ay through the bush pleasant. “About mid-day, after a light lunch, the party—some twelve or fifteen in number—set out again on a twenty minutes’ walk to the foot of the glacier, which, as seen from the hut, is superimposed of solid rock. Crossing the creek al the foot of the ice field wo iminedially started to climb up the slialey moraine. And here care is necessary, for the shale has ice beneath it, and the climber may easily go for an involuntary slide. This part of the climb is taken without any undue haste. Soon surmounting the moraine, the “Razorbacks” came into view and one or two of the climbers grow faint-hearted at the sight. Personally we found the crossing of the knife edges far less terrifying than our imagination had painted it. The guides, ‘however, are alert, and watchful, and if a climber be nervous he or she will be shepherded by these knights of the ice. “The Razorbacks passed, the going for a while is comparatively easy, and we have time to look not only at the crevasses, which abound on every hand, but at the entrancing little pools here and there. ‘Baths for babies and dolls’ one of our party christened them.

“Presently we see before us on the ice what looks like a-n ice sledge. We took turns at crowding on to the machine, and being hurled down the ice (for a short distance) at a very merry pace. Fortunately all made the toboggan trip in safety. This pastime over, we are invited to climb among the pinnacled ice. Here one rather solid and nervous lady requires considerable assistance. She rejects her husband’s well-meant offer of help, and prefers to wait for the expert assistance of one of the guides. The naive way in which she does this causes great merriment. ‘ — ,’ she exclaims, 'T’vo great confidence in you in some things, hut not on the ice.’ Finally, with the help of the guide and another climber, she negotiates the difficult passage.

“Thereafter we commence the downward climb. The route is somewhat varied from that of the ascent, although the Razorbaeks must once more he negotiated. Anon we pause to lookdown blue-tinted holes, and listen to the rushing of waters l>eneath the ice. Soon wc are once more upon the terminal moraine, across the crock and back at the hut. Afternoon tea is quickly prepared and partaken of with great relish. Then we start hack to the hostel by a different and far more beautiful track than the one we had come up hv. Within a short distance from our destination we are shown and given to drink of a soda water spring which supplies the special hath close by. Then we move on. “like giants refreshed.” to give up our very comfortable ioo lioots and sticks, and start | ia .ok to Harihari, which we reach in duo course. Tt has been a day io b« remembered with pleasure.”