ACROSS THE DIVIDE

Hokitika Guardian, 10 May 1927, Page 4

ACROSS THE DIVIDE

THE GLORY OF THE OTIRA.

Circumstances have altered the position at Otira, where the railway pierces the mountain, and the glory ot the Otira Gorge and of Arthur's Pass is lost to the general traveller. But the beauty of nature's lavish handiwork is still there for the beholder, and not. a, few there are who cross the Divide between Canterbury and "Westland by the old road route to re enjoy once a ,r a i n tlie glory of the mountain scenery and prospect. Age does not wither nor custom stale the glory of Pass or Gorge, as all who travel by motor find, in the summer season of tlie year Newman's cars meet the trains at Arthur’s Pass railway station, and the journey to Otira. may be made comfortably and securely in well appointed cars

'.unrolled by careful drivers. Once on the way the traveller is soon enjoying the outstanding scenery. The car begins to rise to the Pass, and the lirst object of interest is the Devil’s Punch Bowl waterfall. This is now back to normal activities having jjerfurmed its part in piercing the tunnel while its waters are liamesscci for the purpose. The wateriall goes on merrily like the brook the poet lias sung about, but its waters lull, as another jioet has sung, just as the water came down at Ladore. D plunges a white seething volume, splashing and sparkling in the bright sunlight, Jirescnting indeed a [(leasing study. Following late rains, it presents at the moment a very active force in being capable of further use for auxiliary [lower elfort when such will be needed in the course of time.

The road winds about, up and down dell, along old familiar scenes of mountain and birch belts. The higher peaks are snow-capped and the lower hills arc verdure clad. Here and there the road lays through a birch avenue, at one point seemingly in danger ol destruction by ruthless people seeking pro|'.s or firewood—a practice which might well ho avoided adjacent to the road line for scenery preservation jmrpo.ses. r ! he road is in remarkably good older, due to the practical work of the surfacemen, who keep the water tables of the sidelines and (liftings clear, and crown the centre of the road with the moraine sjniil so readily at hand. The road surface is in well kept order and motor ears (an make good time at every stage, exeejiting where sharji cornel’s dr slcej) declivities call for special caution-—and on a mountain road there necessarily must be not a. few of such |>laecs imjiosing safety first rules on the mind of the d river. The car makes good |>aee to the summit of the Divide" whore oil the well known Hal, the jiest still marks the divisional boundary line between Canterbury and Westland. Ibe post appeal's to be whittling away by the passing of time. Ii seems rl flier strange that in a. locality where so ill Ill'll loose stone abounds, a cairn was

not raised to mark more permanently the dividing line in i|iicstion. IVrhajis it is not too late for such a monument to lx’ laised and endorsed with a tablet U> the memory of tlie line of careful drivers wlm piloted so many horse teams safely over the Pn.--s transferring many thousands of passengers East and West with n minimum i ! serious accident.

'j iu> jmssage by car as coin|uircd with the horse-drawn vehicle |>i*ndiieos changed feelings. With the lile am! action of the well groomed team there was .something to arrest the attention, and give less thought for the passing .scenery. It was always engrossing to watch the precision of the well drilled horse team which knew when to steady and when to trot. Understood, too, the limits of every twist and turn, and could make a jirauciiig show in negotiating a corner which often thrilled the watchful passenger. Those days and times arc gone, but it is still possible to visualise phantom l-sno*--‘■doing” the Bass, either toiling uj) hill or proceeding smartly down hill. Though we may regret tlie passing of the horse as a iiicttiivsquo method of transport in crossing the Divide, lovers of the animal will i:o les.- rcinhe that the coming of the mechanical means ol transport has released the |atieut. faithful horses from llie long strenuous pull which the Gorge road enforced, and in the performing of which many u good beast paid the penalty of its overtaxed efforts. Instead, we have the ineelianio.il ear, which will lie faithful to duty while its mechanism is in order, and is resjionsivs to every touch of the driver, who of necessity, must be one careful and experienced in the manipulation of bis engine, and of judgment in tbe limitation of his speed over the greater jairt of the

, route. The journey to the top of the Pass has now been ac<V.nip!islied. There is a fine view of the Re,Heston Glacier, ’ i whence rises as a small rill the little streamlet so soon to lie glorified into i the roaring Otira (white waters) river i The old lagoon, is still near the summit, 1 and it is interesting to think that beneath it runs the railway funnel which has robbed the road of its passenger traffic. The descent has begun; steep at the top, but before and beyond is spread the ever glorious view of the Otira Gorge. The Revd. Charles Clarke writing of flic Otira Gorge many years ago s;dd: "I cannot pretend to describe in detail this glorious region. It lives in my memory as a succession of forests, mountains, lakes and waterfalls, as brilliant and fascinating as tho most vivid fancy could depict, or tho most exacting eye desire." It is still the self-same wonderland—one of the great glories of tho I many Westland is rich in. | But our driver is intent that we should drink in the marvels of the scene on this clear bright sunny afternoon in May, and so he manoeuvres the car to a look-out point , whence below and far beyond we may see the spiral road winding at five different points wooded in on all sides by the wealth of forset scenery and surmounted by the eternal mountains, while all about us the roaring waters supply perpetual music. We pass on with here and there views of waterfalls and silvery streamlets rushing down from the mountain side. The hum of the car challenges unsuccessfully the roar of the waters nc-arby as we round successive corners. Then we pass the Bridal waterfall in full play and the spray douches those nearest the water. Looking back there is an unique sight. The declining sun is shooting its rays into the waterfall, and there is a triple rainbow to be seen embellishing the spraying waters, a very pleasing sight indeed.

The ear is now past the steeper parts of the winding roadway, and greater speed is possible. We are moving more, swiftly now, and by the time twenty minutes of this glorious road have been filled, we have traversed the Otira Gorge. Our well directed vehicle, a tiny thing in comparison to nature’s wonderland about it, lias performed well, and all have enjoyed the wonderful thrill to be had in crossing the Divide from Canterbury to Westland by motor. It is possible—and many do—to pursue the motor journey to Hokitika, travelling on through wonderful forest country, skirting the Teremakau river with a distant view of Lake Moana at one point, and passing homesteads and settlements en route. The whole journey affords a pleasing entry to the many scenic glories which Westland presents to the tourist and traveller in

search of a holiday respite ill bright and fresh surroundings in which nature plays so noble a part. ‘‘Westward Ho,” might well lie revived as a slogan to attract the streams of visitors touring New Zealand to visit Westland, truly nature’s most remarkable wonderland of all the Dominion. —D. J. EVANS.