IN THE ALPS.

Hokitika Guardian, 5 February 1926, Page 4

IN THE ALPS.

ADVENTURES WITHOUT GUIDES. (Christchurch Press). A painful experience brought home to a party of amateur alpinists recently the foolhardiness of climbing in lho

Mount Cook region without guides. As a general rule no climbing party is permitted to leave the Hermitage unless accompanied by one of the guides attached to the Hermitage stall', except in rare- cases wherein the climbers are all experienced alpinists. A short Lime ago, however, thrqo visitors to Lire Hermitage, all of whom had had a little climbing experience, decided to attempt the ascent of Alt. Kile de Beaumont (10,200 ft.) without a guide. They set out from the Malle firun hut early one morning, and at first made good progress. After a few hours heavy clouds began to drift across the ranges, and a snowstorm appeared likely, but as the climbers were by this time a considerable altitude they decided to attempt lo make the summit and return before the storm broke. The decision was ill-advised,

for, before they reached the peak, snow began to fall heavily and they were soon compelled to abandon tho ascent and return with all speed to their base. The consequences of their error of judgment wore very soon ovi- : dent, for it was difficult to see more than a few yards in tho thick snow, and their pao'j was reduced to a crawl. I MAN DISAPPEARS. I Presently, in order to see hotter, they removed their snow-goggles, a mistake which might easily have cost tbioin their lives, had the snow-blind-ness which later overtook them come on before they were able to get safely off the icefields. Suddenly, while tho party was traversing a crevasse by

means of a snow-bridge, tho lending man of the file disappeared, the packed snow having given way under his weight. The other two “anchored” in time to stop his fall ten or twelve feet down—the party was, of course, roped together—and there he dangled until after some exertion on the part of his companions, he was dragged bodily out, bursting through the snow-crust like some Arctic sea-monster. Beforo the ice was left behind, each member of the party had had a. turn at falling down a crevasse but, thanks to the rope, each was got safely out of his predicament. The return journey through the blizzard. in blinding snow and over rough rock and ice until tho glacier was reached, was made painfully hut without further mishap, and the party’s

relief on reaching the Mnlte Brun hut was immense. But their troubles wore not by any means over. They had under-estimated the effect of the glare from the snow and ioe In. removing their goggles, and soon after they reached the hut all were suffering the pain of snow-blindness. Light seared the eyeballs like hot irons, and they sought refuge in dark corners, covering their heads with blankets. Their pains did not end with this affliction, for they had neglected to anoint their faces with the cream used to protect them in high altitudes, and soon the skin was peeling in strips from their burning cheeks. Next day they were sufficiently recovered to he aide to make the easy trip hack to the Hermitage, though it was almost a case of “the blind leading the blind,” and for some days afterwards they were unable to bear a strong light upon their .eyes. The experience was one they will not- easily forget, as an excellent object-lesson in the disadvantage and danger of climbing without a guide.