EVEREST EXPEDITION

Hokitika Guardian, 27 June 1924, Page 3

EVEREST EXPEDITION

STORY OF I iI E CLIMB

TERR I RLE HARDSHIPS MET WITH. | “Tnk Timks” SmtViCK.] (Ruiviml this day at 10.21 a.in.; LONDON. Juno 23. Noriuii <;l tlio Everest, expedition. in a despatch ilaloil. -Sill. Juno, from a camp at a height of 21.1 Jit loot, oast I of Itangliuk l 'lacier, relate-, tlio al-nic.-i supi'rlium.iii ililliciilt ios of the fili.-il assault, especially tlio (Icincauuui of the iiiitivo piirtics ua- eunuch to daunt tlio hardest spirit-. It had licen I alrcail.v decided in mnility the original | plans, otting tn the moral anil physical exhaustion of tiio native porter.-. Ii I H.-Is ant ieipati-i! that few unnld be avaihdde in a -t. tin- ( Pm'-ms above I 23.0110 loot-and that tin* ,-limhors wnuht discard the oxygen fur at least tun attempts in reach the summit. sleeping two nights mi the inuuiitaiu ahnve 23. - (** 1 t foot. The ui athtr tiiere Has al-Uln-t perfect. The peak stood nut clear cut hi the azure sky. Symptoms of the iiiuiisnnn had disappeared, hut the explorers know the miili.-noli might at any inninent luir-t with its lull force. Fifteen picked porters, distinguished by the name “tigers" were as-emhled and the stage set for the linal attempt. The weather i -’linning perteet. .Mallory, linin' and nine timers estalished a camp mi the iiurtli cnl. nil Ist. June and began the aseent of the creat north ridge on the 2nd. in order to estahlish camp No 1. lull suddenly a hitter mirth-west wind nearly hlou the purlers olf their feet. Their prepress mis one lone fight against the wind and altitude, sometimes nil a rock, .somethin's on snow, tit an angle of forty-live decrees. It Hils Imped to c tahlish ramp ti■ on ;i sheltered ridee at 21.02:1 feel. At 2-1.1!:):) feet the endurance of the porters began I i Hag tllul only four reached the camp. The remaining live drunpeil llu-tr burden.'. Bruce and one tiger were lureed to make several trips to bring up the stores. White men cannot carry loads at those altitudes with impunity, and it was scarcely to lie wondered at that Rruee's heart was s| rained. t hunch happily only temporarily. Thus camp live was . finally established. Three picked porters were retained alio the remainder sent hack. Obviously everythin}; depended upon the morale and physical condition of these three. Mr Rruee's persuasive paver.- failed tn arouse their enthusiasm for the morrow’s task. The wind seemed to have kill'-d their spirits on the morrow. It was also intended to make an early start, hut while preparin'; breakfast. they obtained the most unwelcome news that only one porter was f't to proceed. The other two professed to lie sick, and totally unable to carry a

load. It was finally evident that the three porters had shot their bolt, so after a brief consultation it was decided to return to eainn four, and consider plans for a further attempt. This despatch covers the movements of the expedition iust prior to .Mallory and Irvine starting on their fatal attempt for the summit.