FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER TO MOUNT COOK.

Hokitika Guardian, 27 March 1924, Page 4

FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER TO MOUNT COOK.

A BOTANIST’S EXPEDITION

(By Professor Arnold Vail ill tbe “Lyttelton Times-”).

Our fourth day, January 13, was just as bau as ever: more gambling, more nonsenieal games, more tinned stuff, some language and a distinct deterioration in “lc moral.” And our fifth was likf! unto it, but a change was now apparent, for the weather, hitherto warm, muggy and “nor’-westerly,” turned cold; snow fell and whitened the Goatpath Ridge and lav a very few hundred foot above the hut. This, of course, meant southerly weather, and presaged the end of our troubles. During the afternoon of the fourteenth, our good friend Peter Graham arrived with two visitors, and very shortly afterwards the rain ceased for good. The travelling had been very slow, as tho surlace of fbe glacier, usually granulated and holding, becomes, during heavy rains, clear and slippery, so that we could not possibly have got on and off the glacier had we decided to attempt it. Vo all came back to Vaiho together on the fifteenth in fine weather.

We were now compelled to change our plans. The difficulty of getting a guide at once and our doubts about the weather and the state ol the Aimer Glacier caused us to give up the crossing by Graham’s Saddle, and we decided to go over bv way of the Copland Fuss. This suited the botanist very well, as tbe snowlields of the main range are of very little use to him, whereas the Copland affords many fine

opportunities. To reach the Copland Pass from Vaiho ‘f is necessary, first, to go to the Fox Glacier, fourteen miles, and fhencc t wen tv-tight miles to the Welcome Flats Hut, on the Copland River. From this hut, it is about three hours’ going to the Douglas Rock Bivouac, from which the pass can be easily made. AVAL KING A STRINGER.

(in January 16 we took up our packs ami walked to the " accommodation house (Williams’s) at the Fox Glacier. It is a celebrated walk—a beautifully graded road, quite free from the smells and the noises of motors, as the Vaiho River is not yet bridged lor traffic. It is quite strenuous enough for men cari ving swags, as it passes over tlnoc high saddles. The only snag is the Waikupukupu River. AYo were constantly asked whether could “walk a stringer,” and perceived that something funny was before us. Ibo bridge over this river is in disrepair; the decking has gone, but the main supports upon which the decking rests, the “.stringers,” remain intact, qui4o so id and sound. Yo 11 walk over upon one of those with nothing to hold oil to, atvf

tho river, very rapid and rough, abottc thirty or forty feet below. Two of us walked it, but the third, who had done this sort of thing once before, v-.i'ked through the river. Tho proper met' oil is to cross two at a time, one on each stringer, holding the two ends of a pole, hut we did not know this. Til I! 1 LIANG GLIMPSE OF 'IOUN I’ COOK.

A Williams’ we spent a very pleasant evening and were vijidc - l by tie' sq.l.t of Mount Cook, quite close, s inking off tlie evening mists just after sunset, which gave us an indescribable thrill. We bad no time to explore the Fox Glacier, which comes down to a very

low level, just like the Franz Josef, but with a troublesome terminal moraine. It looked very handsome and striking, however, gleaming white between its dark containing walls of bush-covered rock. The mountains hereabouts are fairly easy of access and caused the mouth of the botanist to water and the soles of his feet to‘tingle ; but. we had to push on. At AVilliains’ horses are obtained and a guide to tbe. Welcome Flats Hut or nearly and at tho hut guides from The Hermitage were lo meet .us. One member of our pane, however, opposed an adamantine will to the arguments and persuasions ot bis companions, and, knowing his own

powers, limitations and •integuments, preferred to walk. Provisions wore obtained here, as only a light meal can he got at Scott’s, the last house on the wav.

The pedestrian member got away by six and mis carried over Cook’s River on one of the horses. I*or the first thirteen miles, as far as .Scott’s the Main South Road is lollowod. It is very like the famous road to the Fox, passing through splendid glades in the tall, solemn forest, all lonely ami quiet, with pigeons now and then Happing across ami bell-birds making incessant music all along. Now and then fine clear rattling creeks are crossed, and two or three quite considerable rivers where tho pedestrian had to strip. At Scott’s, where we had a light lunch atahout ten, the track to the Copland I’ass turns into the mountain-, and follows first- the main valley of the Karangarua River and later that oi its tributary, the Copland. This all makes splendid walking—plenty ol shade, plenty of running water, a fair surface, and no very serious rivers to cross—all through magnificent forest aisles. For all too short a distance the track meanders along the bank of the noble Karangarua River itself, disclosing long reaches of beautiful water, fringed by the high forest. The horses could only he taken as far as Architect Creek, twenty-four miles from the Fox, and four from the Welcome Flats, (lore we had to bid our guide farewell and take ii]> our packs. AN ARDUOUS MARCH.

This was about throe o'clock, and we looked forward now to a long spoil of at least half a day at Welcome Flats and a hath in the hot springs at that place. The track here becomes very rough and mounts rapidly; we all found this font- miles very tough indeed. ]l was about five when we got into our longed for haven, and there we found Mr Wigley. of The Hermitage, and a guide awaiting us. But. the weather had now become threatening and the high tops were all veiled .in very dark clouds. It was thought advisable for us to push on almost at once and cover the three hours’ journey to Douglas ltock before dark. We ac-

quiesced with some groaning, snatched a hasty meal, and then took, the road again. It was consolation to learn that the spring was just then far too hot for bathing—almost boiling. We had a look at it and found a very curious kind of small terracing in process of formation alongside it, like the famous lost Pink and White Terraces of Rotomahana. Our guides relieved us of much of our loads and we took it easily enough, first along the river-bed, then by a fell-formed bu.sh track to the Douglas Rock, where we arrived before dark, finishing up our thirtythree miles journey very fresli and happy. At the Rock, we found Jim Stout, who became our chief and friend and companion during the next ten days, and a cheerier or more amusing guide we none of us ever hope to have. Blankets and sleeping-bags are kept here, and a few necessary cooking utensils. It affords just room for five or six men to lie under cover. So here we six lay, snug enough, from about nine, some of us snoring hard and the others listening-in, till about three, the fog about us remaining very thick all night.

The scenery of the Upper Copland is extraordinarily impressive. The river falls in a series of immense rapids and cascades among enormous rocks with a most satisfying roar, re-echoed from

the-very high precipitous cliffs which form the western buttresses of Mount Sefton. The Rock is. situated just within the topmost fringe of bushl“ None of us for a moment regretted the change of plan which had been forced upon us ; the Copland is undoubtedly one of the things which every New Zealander ought to see.