SOUTH WESTLAND.

Hokitika Guardian, 22 January 1924, Page 4

SOUTH WESTLAND.

THE DISTRICT WITH A FUTURE.

DESCUT BED BY A RECENT VISITOR. .MR COM,INS' TRIP. Thy following report on u rcec-nt trip through South Westland B.v Mr and .M vs .1. W . Collins, of the Depart-im-nt of Industries and Commerce. Wellington, has been forwarded to Mr Evans. Secretary to the Exhibition, for general information : Dear Mr Evans.— [n the course of a casual conversation with you recently 1 mentioned to you that my interest in South Westland was stimulated hy a visit I had made in the Government steamer “Tutunckai” in April 19212. On that occasion I was privileged to see By daylight the whole of the coast lino from Big Bay. north of Milford Sound to Abut Head immediately north o( Okarito, and to land at both Jackson's Bay and Bruce Bay. We must have been near the spoi where Abel Tasman in December 10-12 discovered New Zealand. and saw what he described as a ‘•high mountainous country.’' ft is remarkable, but none the less true, that despite the passing of nearly 300 years, and the advance ot civilising influences, many parts of South Vestland remain as in Tasman’s day. The primeval forests are still largely untouched and untarnished. Tasman no doubt saw. as we saw, the glistening snow-white faces ol the I* <>x and Iran/. Josef glaciers, and fill liter north h<‘ Was no doubt the first white man to view New Zealand's loftiest mountain, Cook. The early history of Westland since British occupation is one of romance and adventure; the two bays I was able to visit are intimately as seriated with the gold rush of fit) years ago. THE PRESENT TRIP. Having studied the coast lim- and mountain ranges from the sea. and learned something of the history of the province, 1 sought- your assistance and ndviee, Mr Evans, as to the manner in which olio could make closer acquaintance with South Westland from the land side, and you were good enough to furnish me with a printed report and notes of a lour in February, 19111, through South Westland and across the Haast Pass hy Mr Dull', Chairman of the Westland County Council. Mr Dull' was, J know, accompanied hy you. Alter perusal of this report, I decided in make a similar trip, and during Xmas week last, in company with my wile and a guide, set out from the Waiho. You asked

me In submit notes concerning the journey and especially to note the condition of the roads and bridle tracks, and 1 therefore have pleasure in reporting, in narrative, form, as follows; SOUTHWARD no.

Ilokilika on December loth, 1923, was mi fete to mark the opening iff ail Exhibition to cominemor ale the Jubilee of the Coldlield, and the opening of the East-Wen Coast railway. Many official visitors attended this function, chief among whom were lhe lion Sir Uranois Hell (Acting Prime Minister'i, lion W. I townie Stewart (Minister ot Industries and Commerce), and lion Sir li. Heaton Rhodes (Commissioner

of Forestry). After the opening ceremonies, the Ministerial parly left for a brief visit to Okarito and V ailio (forge. I accompanied (lie party which left Hokitika on December lith. The. journey of approximately 100 miles was made in a charabanc. With the

exception of the first 20 miles to Hostile road is in good condition and com

pares most favourably with our mo in highways. -The first portion of tlnroad. however, was full ol pot-holes and the surface badly requires atten-

tion. The road has its surprises and traps by wa\ oi .-baip dip.-, water tables and elbow curves, hat the skill of the chauffeur- in the service cars is so great, and their knowledge ol every chain of the road so perlect that little or no discomfort is expori cnced by travellers. TRULY BEAUTIFUL WESTLAND. It is surprising, after reading Mr Duff’s report, to note the considerable progress and improvements iliat have been made on this road since 1919. Milch of the work which was then projected in the way of bridging has been carried out. Considerable work has been done recently on the main road and the settlers in this district

ar.' appreciative cl' the iinprovemciils effected. It is not my intention to comment in detail on the scenic attractions of this comparatively wellknown portion of the southern highway except to say that the scenery is very beautiful with it s long si retches of road cut through forests of giant trees and fringed with infinite varieties of fern. Charming views arc presented of the lonely lakes, lanthe, Vaihapo, and Mapourikn, and the beautiful river valleys with snow-dad mountains in the background, combine to make panoramas tliat will live long in the memory of those privileged to make the journey. The greatest sight, however, of the whole trip, is the Frail/ Josef Glacier, one of the most remarkable wonders New Zea-

land has to show. This glacier des

(•ends some 0,000 feet in its length o S; miles and has a terminal hire o

solid ice approximately l mile wide

Visitors are safely guided on to the glacier and can cross and re-cross its great basin without risk. The whole of the Ministerial party spent a clay in the vicinity of the glacier and greatly enjoyed the visit. The fact that the trip can ho made by motor in from 0 to 7 hours from Hokitika, combined with the fact that the hotel accommodation at the Waiho is firstclass in every way, must commend itself to tourists. As the rare attractions and beauty of this trip become known, it will not only rival hut must eventually out-rival in popularity the trip formerly made over Arthur's Pass and through the gorges of the Duller. Hokitika must benefit, largely from the tourist traffic and no effort should lie spared in maintaining the existing facilities, in improving the hotel accommodation. and in advertising the merits ot the trip not only in New Zealand, hut in countries oveascas. With the exception of the Glacier Hotel at the Wniho, the hotel accommodation generally throughout Westland does not roach that high .standard expected by oversea tourists. FURTHER SOUTH. On Thursday, 20th December, at 1] a.i11., to be precise, we left the Wuilio for the South. I recalled when we mounted our horses that you had a twinkle in your eye when T inquired as to the method of locomotion, and you replied that the most suitable, and in fact the only practicable way, was to ride. We announced to you that we were not used to the saddle and you promised that the horses provided would he tractable and accustomed to the difficulties to he met with on the way. JUPITER PLUVIUS NOT ON HOI J DAY.

just as we started torrential rain fell and despite our special equipment of oilskins and rubber coats, we were soon wet through. Our packs also suffered, but there was nothing for it

but to proceed. About 3 miles from Waiho we commenced to climb the Dry (?) Creek Saddle and on the other side forded the Oemoeroa. The Roadman’s hut at this ford gave us shelter while wc lunched. Up to the saddle of the Ociqaproa the road is well kept and graded hut requires n<tention about 13 chains beyond the Waikukupa. The latter liver is liable to sudden floods and makes motor traffic impossible in the early summer and after heavy rain. Whilst going up to the saddle past Slippery Bluff there is evidence of very large slips all of which are now cleared. Between the Oemoeroa saddle and the Waikukupa river there are some particularly fine patches of rimu, rata, kawaka, red beech, and kainiai. Much of the rata was in bloom and presented a fine Maze of colour amongst the green of the neighbouring trees. We reached Weheka about -1 p.lll. and were warmly welcomed by Mr Williams, settler, and provided with excellent accommodation and facilities for diving clothing and packs. BRIDUES URGENTLY NEEDED. In conversation with settlers in this di-trict the work of bridging the Waiho is regarded as of paramount importance. Our own horses had to swim this river and its fording invariably presents an element of danger because of the floating ice blocks from the glacier. The work of bridging the Waikukupa is in hand, hut this river is generally fordable, whil-l the Waiho right through the summer is a source of danger and delay. A Weheka settler recently mustered 5(1 head of eat lie with the intention of sending them re the fat cattle market at Hokitika. tint when the Waiho was reached it was found impossible to proceed and the cattle had to be driven hack. Resides the importance of the Waiho

bridge to settlers, there are great possibilities for touri-t traffic to Weheka because of iis proximity to the Fox (■lacier and the truly magnificent hush scenery to he viewed en route. The view from the Waikukupa Saddle i» reputed to be one of the finest on the We-t Coast., but unfortunately owing

to wer weather conditions it was obscured during our visit. From t lie valley of the Weheka or Cook’s River a splendid view of the Fox Glacier is obtained as well as of the summit of Fits Cook, Tasman, and La I’eroiise. Further, the easiest pass to the Hermitage is reputed to he from Weheka \ia the Copeland river. In point of distance it is 30 miles to Welcome llut and another 20 to the Hermitage. This route, too, is also available to

tourists when il is quite impossible to go i ia the F ranz .Josef Glacier. World tourists say they have never seen filter bush scenery than that to he met with in the II miles between Waiho and Weheka. Comparing it with my wide knowledge of existing forests, I can say that there is certainly no better forest scenery in the Dominion. A LAND OF PROM IFF.

The settlers at the Weheka mainly devote their attention io the breeding of cattle, hut sheep are pastured to a limited extent. The stock are in excellent condition anil the pasture lands uere knee-deep in grasses. The paddocks with their rich greenery form a great contrast to the sun-baked, khaki-coloured pastures of the East Coast. With an assured mallei for dairy products, either by motor inn-tor when the bridges are completed, or preferably by steamer from Brliee Pay, ibis valley will undoubtedly devote itself largely to dairying. One I lionsand cows could he kept in the valley as it exists 10-day. I lydro-eleetrie power is available and will form a big asset in driving the dairying plant when isolation is removed. Already the settlors have established water wheels for lighting thi ir homes and

providing power for light farm work, including Ihe culling of timber lor local-use. The settler, have built their hollies of heart tot are. These an: pleasing in design and the excellent accommodation house kept by Mis Williams offers ample room lor I ! people. Provision ecu he ninth lot touring parties wishing to vim . the Alps, and guides and horses can bo obtained in the district. FLA COMMUNICATION NECESSARY.

The settlers at Weheka arc greatly pleased with the progress that lias been made in bettering the road communication with the Wniho and with Rruee Ray. Special mention is made of the loyal and efficient services of the roadmen in charge of the section between Cook’s River and Rruee May. The natural outlet for tin* products of this and neighbouring districts is undoubtedly lfnice Ray. Settlers are unanimous on this point and consider that from o miles north of Cook’s River to the Moernki or Mine River, produce could he readily and economically carted to Rruee Ray provided tliat a suitable jetty is connected with the present landing place known as the "Flower-pot," A more dependable steamer service than that existing at present is warned. A large and valuable tract of country between the points named could be opened up. -Much of the land is heavily timbered, and so long as it lasts the timber would form the most valuable commodity the district could ship. Cattle would undoubtedly still he sent overland. hut the steamer would he called

upon for the carriage of timber, wool, live sheep, and dairy produce. Speaking as a layman, hut. with a personal knowledge of Rruee Ray, it appears to me to he eminently suitable for the purpose the settlers have in view. The Ray is protected from the prevailing winds, has deep water whore the jetty is required and a good road from the storage shed to the proposed jetty. For two years, to my knowledge, the settlers in this district waited to secure a steamer to take away their wool, and it was only by urgent, representation to the Government that relief was given by the c-all of the s.=. Tutnnekni (in which 1 was a passen-

ger), in April 1022, and on which occasion I believe, some 90 to 100 bales

were shipped. THE FOX RIVALS THE WATHO GLACTER. At 8 a.in., on Friday, 21st, wo were well on our way to Mahitnhi, some 3d miles south. The weather promised to he fine. Mt. Cook had kindly lifted her veil and we obtained a splendid view. In the immediate foreground we saw the Fox Glacier, which in most respects presents the same characteristics n< the Franz Josef. It possesses at it-. source the largest snow-field in the Southern Alps. The ugly moraine which this glacier has deposited at its foot was hidden by the nearer forests, and in the broad spaces the snow is crystal white, whilst lower down, ns it is narrowed by the gorge, it is gently undulating or deeply crevassed. * AT JACOB'S RIVER. The wide river bed of the Cook’s river was safely negotiated, but the main ford was deep and the water reached to the saddle tops. After crossing the Cook’s river the track was somewhat difficult to find and a signpost would ho an advantage. At about noon we forded the Jacob’s or Makawhip River, where we had the pleasure of lunching with Mr Ritchie,

sour, his son. Mrs Ritchie and her little daughter. Air Ritchie senr.. is a pioneer of the district, and his son,

after war service, lias settled down with his English bride in this lonely spot to carry on the business of cattle raising. After 2T hours spent under Mr Ritchie’s hospitable roof, we left for the final stage of 11 miles to Condon’s. Rain which had been falling

just prior to arrival at- Ritchie's, came down in a ■steady downpour and appeared to increase as we lienred our destination. A HOME FROM HOME. Sore and stiff, wet through and aching at the knees, we appreciated ilie hearty hospitality that was meted out to ns by Mrs Condon. Bright fires soon dried our clothing and the cheerful hearth amply compensated the minor inconveniences caused by inclement weather and the long hours in the saddle. On this stretch of road, tVehrka-.M aliitalii, besides the Cook, we forded the Oinetamateu river and its several tributaries, the Kai’Siltgrua and its branches, the Manakaiaua and lastly the Makavviiio. These rivers, unlike those of the East Coast, are, at tiiis time of the year, particularly turbulent following heavy rains, and the melting of the snow on the Ranges causes them to rush and pour but their wealth of water in refold time to the sea. Generally, the road is good front Weheka to the beach at Bruce Hay but at the beach itself it would be an advantage it the present road running along the beach could be continued as the beach sand is very heavy for dray traffic. Front the beach to Condon's the road is being newly metalled

newly metalled. Inn is not being formed in ;l width suitable lor tlrny tra'lic. Tun miles of metal lino; are already finished, but approaching C undon’x the track, owing to wet v.catjvr condition'. is largely ovor-o.i-o,vn wit!) loii", grass, and ivery muddy and boggy. II tin* track were widened somcwliai i’rom (lie beach to Condon' . it eoid.i be utilised for dray trallic; ai present ibe settlers use the liver beds and it is a long tough pull for the liurses. NATIV.K HKI it All I’:.'-. ,\li Condoii lias attractive larms in the vicinity of (be Maliilahi and I’ttrbga rivers and the condiliou oi tbe slock was excellent. Owing In Die wet weather which prevailed on the ncxL day 'Saturday) we rested at Condon’s. Mild geese, ducks (grey and paradise) and pigeons, are plentiful in the district, lies ides the cattle there were horses, sheep and pigs. Scveial flocks ol wild geese have taken up their (piaricrs ipitte near the homestead, and oil occasion provide a welcome addition to ihe larder. On the evening of .Saturday, fkJnd December, accompanied by three members of Mr Condon's family, we rode the short sUeteli of If mile- to a cottage j list beyond (lie Paringa river owned by Mr Condon, where we stayed the night. This was one ot the best sec-

tions of the trade met with. Alter b miles the two daughters of Mr Condon who had accompanied ns ivttlined to the homestead, and we proceeded under the guidance of .Mr .lack Condon and forded the Paring:! river which v, ,'is in partial Hood and reached the

cottage about !> p.m. We were soon comfortably stifled beside a roaring lire and disappointedly listened to the steady rain which darkness bad brought. 'I be bmge I, hardc-t and probably the badi. - t sect ion of the road bad to be accomplished on the liesi day. and il was therefore lervcntly hoped that the weather would lie kind. However, il was mil to be; ini rising oil Suniias morning belorc t> a.in. the lain was tailing heavily and when we set out at 7 a.lll, chinked to the necks in our oilskins poor, futile protection against such rain we were soon wei through. IN Tills !11 (HI COIXTKY. About tour miles ;,ou(h ol I lie cottage we got a preliy peep of Take Pitwngn. iorc.st-bei iuged, t ilent and solitary, save for a few wild fowl. Me made good lime to Ibe alocraki river, arriving at V a.m. The track was through heavy Ini I: and led into the intiumaiuous country and included a Cog climb over the Mat a kitaki llauge or Maori saddle, some "J.1)11(1 led above sea-level. From thi lofty lu-igbl vc hail glimpses ol undulating ftn'c-T •.cum try ilreU-hinv; t-.< th-g sea. Shelter w.t>. nkiaim-d a* a roadman’., hut. tiillv) <hv r rc .. H’t! elosj, ie.(-I;,g at It ,i.ni tM.I there we lunch,-, i , in ,| I le. I |. .1 1 1 hour- 11. Is an now ril ten law ui this land that all visitors •should leave dry firewood. Il is as well that this rule is faithfully observed for it enables a good lire to be made in a few minutes to boil the billy and dry clothes, dust after 1 p.m. we left the shelter ol the hut and the warmth of the lire to face the

pitilcss mid heavy rain once inure. The i rack oill kept to the mountains and we missed many flooded wafer tallies, and ■ suddenly round a bend

came upon a roaring flood of water shooting dicer from the lace ol the hills 10 feel: above to the track, and then disappearing over the edge in a perpendicular stream to a great depth below. Great boulders bordering the track broke the force of the water hut ils volume was such that one wondered whether the horses could possibly negotiate the crossing or whether they would baulk at the noisy turbulent overflow. One mis-step of the horses meant elernitv, hut with a trust horn

of four days’ close acquaintance we left it to the horses and got safely over. Frequently in the wet season entile are swept over the side and are never recovered. A .substantial protecting fence at this spot would he a boon.

'DIFFICULT ROARING. .Mile after mile we followed the convolutions iif the ranges, affording at every turn vistas of lofty mountains and long waterfalls descending from the mists, and roaring rivers tearing along the bottom of steep ravines more than a thousand feet below. We presently came to a place known as Slippery Fare, a name which faithfully describes it. At this point the whole track is constantly slipping away and many hundreds of pounds have to he spent annually on its upkeep. The whole face is devoid of vegetation and is composed of loose rubble and coarse sand. The track lias been cut right across this face and in wet weather, such as we experienced, there is danger ol the weight of the horses carrying (he track away into the gorge hundreds of feet below. It is staled that a deviation has been surveyed and it would appear to he essential on account of the danger to human life and of Ihe serious loss of stock that this diversion should he made ns soon

as possible. APPROACHING THE IT A AST

After the hills wore left behind we faced due west, and took the long straight track to the sea. A sharp canter along the flat hnpight us to | the hut at Copper Creek some 11 miles from the Tfnast. This lmt is also known as Afosquito Hilt and thoroughly deserves its name, It is necessary to communicate by telephone from this hut with the ferryman at the Haast in order to secure ttie l*oat. to cross that river. What welcome visitors the guide and I proved to lie to 4be mosquitoes! They were there in incalculable millions and hungered for our blood! Tt was a relief to again face the- rain ami proceed away from these pestiferous insects. On approaching the Haast, on the wide open beach we saw great black clouds gathering over the Tasman Sea and the gloom of the wet day was intensified by the inky black clouds. Visibility became bad and sharp claps of ihun-

dor Alternated with flashes o£ light-, ning betokened an early storm. The thunder eamo nearer and nearer until on reaching the river bank it reverberated over our heads like the boom of huge van noli, and the crackle of artillery. AA'hilst we were dismounted and waiting for the ferryman, the horses huddled together to shelter from the storm which they knew was due. At 5 p.m. the steady rain gave way to a downpour, the like of which wo had never before experienced. The sight was truly awesome, The gloom deepened, and it became almost dark and the rain beat upon our faces like whipcords. After driving the- horses into the river to swim the flood, we successfully crossed in a boat, and after an exciting few minutes gained the meagre protection afforded by the flax bushes on the other side. Our horses were re-saddletl. Wo completed the one mile journey in the homestead, where we received a hearty welcome from Mr and Mrs J. Cron. We learned subsequently that even >u tins district where the rainfall often reaches 200 inches per annum, that this outburst of rain was the worst experienced in the district in 42 years. STATE OF TRACK.

Tilt traak on the* south side ot the I’aringa River to the Iron lint generally is in good order. ihe track mounts up into densely wooded hills and there is a good deal of overhanging scrub. In many places fallen trees obstruct the trad; and the larger ones have been chopped through to leave a narrow right-of-way. i.i would lake but a few minutes work io jack them dear. At the foot in the ranges and on to Cooper (red; Hut. Hm track is good, and being iroe ot culverts, good time can ma !o. Alter leaving the bin me Hack is good for two miles, bill 1* diversion lias been made to the river bed. indicated by a a bite {lag. I 'ui-.i ( unlade there is no clear indication **i '.here tile trad; should be rejoined, and a linger post or a flag should be erected in order to avoid danger ami delay. '.I lie truck after leaving the Maow River, in the beach is in good order, but the Jirst part ot the sandy track on the beach proved to be very hal'd going. II should be formed up and drainage provided so that wilier could get away readily. The. beudi provided good going for tlie horses, but without a guide it would I. ; most diflieult to pick uj) the track through the bush leading to the Haast. Again an indicating post should be erected as several long delays have been occasioned to travellers at this point. The track on the south side of the river to Mr .Joint Cron’s residence badly needs draining and fopdressing. SETTLEMENT PROSPECTS. I did not visit Okora. but at the Haas! made inquiries concerning the progress of this .settlement. The wharf at Hie nioolli of the river reported to be capable of taking a vested drawing up to (hi. al high title. The bar, however, is mu dependable and it. is the considered opinion of most ot the

selllcrs that tin: only satisfactory outlet for Ilnur produce is via Jackson's Hay, which has excellent harbour filed i ties. Tins bay t- protected against till the prevailing winds and lbe provision of a wharf would remove the main disability from, which llie sol tiers suffer. The present s(earner service from Hokitika is slaLil to he very unsatisfactory in that the sailings are irregular and the power of the boat Is much too low. Roth at. the llaast am! at Oktira there are extensive areas ol flat land suitable for dairying and the settlers are keenly desirous of establishing this induslrv and I lie only cheek to their enterprise i, the waul .f shipping facilities. This district has established a reputation fur breeding cattle, and if i lie dairying industry could replace this industry it would be more remunerative and give quicker returns. Further, if would spell progress for the whole coUioiunil;. , and above Ml. induce closer setiictiKut. The project him I I.ePcvc, hr. '! examined in al! it; . phase:., ■ bd t lb. re is an mdtn.ifion to .1. 1 |i-it a dao v factory if Ol.unt, the settlors would, in my'qaiiioo, he well advised to first settle the freighting problem. When absolute dependence can be placed on sea carriage to the north, then only should the enterprise lie entertained and undertaken. EEI!RV TELEPHONE, liefween Copper Creek 11lit and Mr J. ('roll's the telephone was working very badly and it was only after repealed efforts ill,at connection was made. The ferry telephone is out. of order, and Mr Cron has to send a

member of his family in acquaint, tin ferryman of the coming of travellers. The machine* are out-of-date and despite attention given by postal officials from time to time, still fail to work'. This failure appears to have followed on a lightning storm in August last. A new telephone for the main line lias now been delivered to Afr John Cron's, and will shortly lie installed.

MAIN' TELEPHONE. Tin* intiin tolplione from the* Waiho lo the Haast works spasmodically. Wo found no difficulty in commiinii-atiii" with AYeheka ami Alahitahi. hut communication with the Haast w;is most dilliculi' and unsatisfactory. By a proarrangement l)otiv(‘on Messrs Condon

and Cron they speak to each other at' specified times only, the bell call being quite ini possible. The voices could lie heard very indistinctly, and following the storm on the day of our arrival the line was unworkable and telegrams we desired to send could not he transmitted. interference with this line by fallen logs just beyond the Raringa

v affects its efficiency, and it is surp prising that it works at all consider- (] ing that in several places the line is 0 covered with dense scrub, and for p many chains it has fallen from the ] poles, and is strung along dose to the 0 ground. The isolation of the settlers ( is serious enough without this added disability. ’ SAFE DEPOSIT FOR EGGS. We spent the whole of Xmas Eve at , I ho Haast. In the morning rain ron- ] tinned to fall heavily, but in the nftcrj noon it cleared somewhat enabling us i to pay a visit to the home of Air Adam , Cron, settler and ferryman. Afr Cron evidently does not fear any undesirable visitors to rob him of his wealth, a .substantial iron safe fwhich would be worth £2O in any of the cities) is used by him as a hen-coop. Vegetables especially potatoes, cabbages, pens, and beans, grow prolific-ally in the district, and a half-acre patch of potatoes on Air J. Cron's property, was one of the finest and healthiest of crops we saw. Raspberries also grow well, but fruit generally is not cultivated. CHRISTMAS DAY JOURNEY. On Tuesday, Almas Day. wo decided to leave in the early afternoon for the Clark Hut. The weather showed signs of clearing, and after spending a very happy Xmas morning with Air and Afi-s J. Cron, wo left at 1 .20 p.m. The first mile of track was good, tint afterwards it was particularly had, by reason of the corduroy patches, and innumerable culverts. The utmost care had to he taken to prevent the horses slipping and catching their hoofs in rotten timber. A comparatively small deep water crossing at Grassey Crook, which it was expected would hold us up. was successfully crossed, and here we bade “good-bye” to A Ess Cron who bad kindly accompanied us on the first four miles of our journey. AVe proceeded for some distance over grassy paddocks, the track being covered with water and very boggy. It was also illdefined and progress was slow. A * large portion of this journey is made *

on the old tx*l of the Haast River oror cobble stones and .'.and. The fords were unpreeedently high and wc had to cross various branches no less than 14 times, and on no occasion was the water below the riders-' knees. The deepest crossing was made just above the Half-wav Bluff where the water came over the saddle# of the horses. The whole stage was rough in the extreme, and iu addition to the roughness, the tracks and fords were most diflieult to find. The draining of the track has been neglected in the hush areas, wash-outs are frequent, many fallen trees are encountered. am! narrow deep dips scoured ont by heavy floods, made riding exceedingly slow and dangerous unless particular care was taken. TRACK OFT OF REPAIR. _ Our guide stated that present conditions of the track to the Clarke Hut were the worst in his experience, but the last half-mile was well kept. Here the scrub had been cleared for 12ft. along the side of the track, and the surface had received considerable attention. For half the journey we had pleasant sunshine and we viewed the Valley scenery under most advantageous circumstances. There are densely timbered mountains flaming with the red of the rata bloom, with their sides streaming with water-falls coming sheer down Imm groat heights. The hiuc of ilie sky. however, was suddenly blotted out bv clouds from the southeasi . accompanied by distant peals ol timed, ~ A sharp htavy shower ol ram tell, and then cleared oli as sud<l; nly as it Img.-ni. to be succeeded eveninaliy by a perfect twilight and a gloriole- slariighl night. At S p in. we arrived at the Clarke Hut. fairly wet through with the constant fording ot the rivers. The hui is an entirely new structure just out of the builders' hands. It was particularly clean and bright, and the heap of dr.v firewood already cut. alongside the huge open fireplace, soon afforded ns warmth and

cheer. AYe t\ ere the first visitors to stav overnight in this comfortable hut, which lias two rooms and ample sleeping accommodation for live persons. Right opposite the hut is .Alt. MacFaria no (8278ftA siaiidiiig snow crested, serene and silent above its lessor neigh ho urs. OVER lIA A,ST PASS. After a good night’s rest at the hut and ail early breakfast, we left for the last stage of the journey of 35 miles to Makarora, Otago. For the first lime since leaving AVaiho wo had a really line day. The track takes to the river lied after leaving file hut, and hard going takes you to a bluff where i.he bush track is again followed. It is very precipitous, and the horses had to he driven ahead as it was considered 100 diflieult and unsafe to ride. Little attention has been paid to this track which is overgrov,n with soi oh. Indeed the hush track right up to the Ilurke Hut is in had order, and if is quite impossible to go faster than a walk. On the previous day we had glimpses of several deer at long distances, but at the Education Reserve we saw several fine deer at

close quarters, and on rejoining the bush track, a fine slag stood stockstill and presented a good target either for rifle or camera. Just prior to reaching the Burke hut we again crossed the llaast and after passing the hut. (which by the way is in a very dilapidated condition) we took the bush track which had been metalled for several chains. At tin’s point the llaast River narrows and runs through a gorge over huge boulders. Pretty peeps can be obtained ol the river from ilio track high above as it roars and surges below. After leaving the bridge four miles from the Burke but, the track, although in good oilier, lias many sharp inclines anil dips and the precipitous faces made hard climbing for the horses. We saw more deer on one ol the upper iiafs. but they disappeared promptly into the beech groves. At Mule Val--1 v width vi readied -non after noon, i.jg.Jttd ,gy"t. icr .in hour, ’lin; • •lie* !"P for p; ninthly two la Him , and idL't' leaving it lot' the bo;,',, tax, cl, the bush ' ceit'.u'y. mainly hooch, is again met with until the Haast Pass itsell is entered, and lor a mile tlie track is fairly level, but in had repair. It forms a natural waterway, and traffic is diflieult owing to the running water and slippery stoiiev bed. The saddle ol the Haast (1710 ft). was crossed at 2 p.m. aml here the

only visitors to the district were met with—two pedestrians and two horse-

men. MORE ATTENTION NECESSARY TO TRACK.

Soot, alter leaving the saddle the track became very precipitous with sharp declivities and with slippery rock foundation, so we decided io dismount and vralk. At some points the track is: exceedingly narrow anti a tail would precipitate the horses into the h i?h River, some SUU feet below. Go nor-

ally the first stages of the track in the Alaokonzie County arc very rough indeed, but some compensation is afforded by the excellent track across the Kiwi. Cameron, and Bridge Flats. At the Bridge Elat, the bridge is badly in need of attention as Hie timbers are rotten. The last six miles to the accommodation bouse are through open country, capable of .carrying vehicular traffic. GRANDEST SCENERY IX WESTFAX D.

Over the whole route of the Haast some of the grandest and wildest scenery in Westland is to be found, and far surpasses that to be met in the better known Otira and Buffer Gorges. Indeed it is not too much to say that

tlie glands of beech forest which ap-

proximate in beauty the.famous Milford track; besides the densely forested hills and valleys, and the towering snow-clad mountains, there are innumerable waterfalls feeding the swiftrunning clear blue waters of the Haast, Towards the head of the Haast Hie valley becomes canyon-like in character, and is surrounded with

mountains whose summits are snowcovered. and the narrow gorges admit

ribntaries which rush in like arrows

to the mother river. In this northern valley is to be seen Aft. Brewster fSL'Ooft.). and a splendid view of this: mountain and its glacier is obtained after leaving the bluff beyond the Clarke hut. The contrast between the Westland and the Otago sides is most striking and this contrast is exemplified in the vegetation. On the Westland side, vast forests of emerald green predominate with exquisite undergrowth of fernery and mosses,

whilst on the Otago side Hie beech forest belt is stunted, and the grasses

and tussock are sage and khaki-col-oured. ()n arrival at, Alakarora we found excellent acomniodation with Air Dunning, who takes particular interest in the welfare of tourists and acts on occwiion as guide to sportsmen and visitors to the Coast.

THE FIRST NECESSITY. Summing up this last stage it can he said with decision that the whole of the trnr-k should !>o better denned and thoroughly overhauled. It compares most uufavondably with the preceding roadway. Deer and rabbits are taking their toll of forest nd .pastures and will create a serious menace in the near future unless their numbers are ruthlessly checkoff.

SUPPORT REQUIRED FOR S 0 UTH ER X IA r P R 0 V EAI ENTS. file district (if South Westland cannot progress as it should without considerable persistence on the part of the settlers and assistance from public spirited citizens of the more favoured North. Comparatively small expendi-

turo on ©Baontial bridges would open for motor trafflo, another stage of 17 miles from the AVaiho to tho Fox (Ilacier, and give to- tourists the opportunity of seeing part- of the grandest and finest scenery existing in New Zealand. It would give tho settlers a much needed and sure outlet for their cattle and produce. LANDING STAGES A NECESSITY.

The provosion of jetties or wharves ai Bruce and Jackson Bays will bring prosperity to the whole of the South. The possibilities are so great that it is astounding that the matter should ho neglected for a single day. The cost of mailing and bridging over such mountainous and river-scoured country is too huge to he faced whilst the present population is so small, hut given the sea outlets the district will go ahead by leaps and hounds anil bring scores of visitors who cannot face the expense and hardship imposed bv the long and dangerous ride.

AVAKE-FP, PEOPLE! Tf Hokitika citizens are mindful of their true interests they should regard tho development of tho South ns a sacred duty. Her prosperity, now happily assured by the fertility of yiear-by agricultural and pastoral lands, by her great timber and gold rsourccs. nml her proximity to some of the grandest scenery in the Southern Hemisphere, must he further increased by linking tip with this little known and valuable territory. Not only will the tourists and sportsmen flock to AVestlaml in over increasing numbers, but its varied attractions offer u unique field for investigation by the geologist, the botanist, and tho naturalist.

WANTED—THE STORY OF THE SETTLEMENT!

Tn some future day New Zealand authors will add to the literary wealth of tlw world by writing up the early history of the settlement of its provinces. South AAYstlaud. in its primitiveiiess and grandeur, will give the required atmosphere. A New Zealand Rex Beach or Ralph Connor may yet be burn to do justice to the history of this province. No fiction need be introduced to embellish the story. The early treks of the pioneers through the pathless forests and aeioss siviit flowing treacherous rivers in their search for gold, are on record. No author need lack copy to unfold most stirring stories of initiative, endurance, resource and courage. Such an author must refer to the unique and daring trip of the pioneers, who. in 1867 ill an open bout faced the perils of the sea in the long journey from Riverton to the Haast. GRATEFUL MEMORIES. It is fitting in closing that we should express our sincere and grate lul thanks For the open-handed hospitality that was everywhere extended to us by the settlers. Their warm-hearted and generous treatment is deserving of special mention. AA’hilst memory lasts we shall treasure the recollection of many pleasant hours spent in conversation and story h.v the family hearth, and wc express the hope that ihe settlers in the future will earn the rich reward which their endeavours so undoubtedly merit. Yours faithfully. J. AV. COLT-INS.