A SALU-SALU OF VONO.

Hokitika Guardian, 31 August 1923, Page 4

A SALU-SALU OF VONO.

“No Lethean drug for Kasteru lauds. No poison-draught for ours; IJlit Inmost fruits of toiling lumds And mituro's sun and showers." —. G. Whittier. “Vuno" is the Fijian name of a pielly xrainbling shrub which is not uncommon throughout the forests of tlie South Sett Islands. It solids up long, slender, twining stems, on whieh. at regular intervals, the shining given and Fragrant loaves are arranged in w horls oi throe: and it is those young stems which are chosen for the "salusalu.” A salu-salu is a wreath or gai|.md generally of flower* or leaves, and Vono is a favourite. The soft hark ~f the broken end is loosened, stripped down for a. short distance, and twisted about tin 1 stem, which is then drawn through rapidly between the first linger and thumb, so that the bark, and leaves come off tin? wood, to form an easily knotted string of glossy foliage ~f very pleasant perfume. The number ~, these strings which are twisted together depends on the fancy of the wearer, who also pleases himself how it shall he worn--as handsome tool headdress or as rustling friendly neckline, ever whispering its message uf ponce and resit illness a duty which is the birth-right of all the lowly forest dwellers, who learn its necessity from listening to the myriad voices of tin* world-wandering winds - those wisest and most experienced ol all teachers, and yet, withal, the gentlest and (at, times) the roughest. In the assurance that the strength of Vono’s spell (nines from no Haunting of gav i clours, the following simple description of a single (lay's unfettered wanderings in a land hot olid the pale of conventional modern civilisation, is allowed with all due humbleness to trespass in the colder regions of an outside world. It is possible that many of those, who follow the daily round of busy city life, may, misunderstanding, tie lead by tlmir knowledge of the stern re:*lily of life, to condemn the triviality i I the theme: even its there were those who could not understand the outcast. 1 Teriin 11 i• "hen he expressed his belief in words:— Aioi j'aliiie l.c-. pres,, les thus, les hois. h> chain du rossigucl ,1 e stiis heureux.”

a creed he had learned (hiring long day-, and nights of exile, “alone in 11 1 forests of ilie high mountains." ala, Vo and beyond the petty meannesses of maukind. The sun had hardly risen above the ridges oi rlinnmiiuca. and the mists of early morning still hung low ovci the dark ioresis of l.uika Valley, when Tabueavu came up the hill to our lonely camp with it suggestion that wr go vein-digging in the basin of the Sikocl. A, his proposal allowed a chance ol exploring, and •-« extending our knowledge of that uninhabited pa ft “I Hie country, few words were needed, and we set. out wit bout further delay than that occasioned by loading a rilh- magazine and calling the (logs. At Sikei-i we were compelled to lotlow no the bed of the (reek, as the forests on either hank are traversed but slowlv. on account of the frequent dense thickets of bamboos, and the all enquiring t angles of vines and creeper* Some, like "Siteii-mni-Knka" are tough and springy as wire, while othcis as •■\Ya Maxi,’”—with its rasp-like shoots which leave a scar, as of a hunt, on the skin of the unwary traveller—are stil more unpleasant to meet with. Amt so we advanced rapidly, keeping as much as possible in the rocky bed ol the stream, and only leaving it when some stretch of water li.-el to he skirled around. Hiding in the shadowy depths of the cool deep pools we saw numbers ol giant prawns, with claws almost a font iii length: and. here and there. , audit a passing glimpse ol the mug sinuous l.odv of the Iresh-water eel or “duna." who has a pair of curious little horns above his snout. Although Tabueavu succeeded "i catching a single prawn, which he aterwartls i ,inked ill a tiny hre of twigs, we hurried on. leaving the late of the water dwellers in the hands, or ratlier the nets, of the main-body, who were to lis.il on their uay up to the source - for the day is Saturday, known the "Day of Short Preparation.” •and a native village has such a beuG.'nv Sunday appetite that a whole day is usuallv set aside for the replenishment ol the commissariat -ami there i- : seldom upv shortage of supplies. Xatutc. with w i-c tore-thoiiglit has provuled la-r improvident, children ol these drowsy clinics with abundance ol ‘•'emergency

rations" as it were. When cultivated crops are behind-liaiul. or. during tfie drier mniillts of the year, when usual food is M'.-irie. the smiling native gees forth into the wilderness, which stretches in eiidle-s miles I rout across the village green, confident that lie will find ample to till Tii- wants. And he

rnielv <lis;t)M><>inu*«l. In tin* nJ’n-'S-|;inds nearly am to *:•* loinnl wit ii litllt' dillieiilty. ii temporary Milli.-icnoy o‘ "Hull;’'- u large mm of a vim*- ami wild arrow root : and in the bush nr forest am available for several months the giant ••I vlina” nr wild yams. I hen t bore air fern 1 roads lliai make exeelIcnl greens. nival stringy rods of •‘Viika’’ (I’acliyrrhizus irilobux). and unopened Imds of l ho w ild nano ilnraUa.” all of wliit-li. with cmiiiul milk, lad)) to Id I tilt- ”11101111.” To su p] noli K»li t tin* vegetables tlioro am oountloss wild pips everywhere, and many holds of fitttic mam the liill-sidos, an easy |.:vv it) dops and moil. In tho mangrove swamps, which stretch 111 inteiminaldo tangles of roots and bramlios all alo 1111 1 lie coast, am great proon t-iahs. and, clinging to the long aerial roots am masses of oysters—while nearby on dry land, are tho “laiio- or land oral, druli-coloured follows with hairy lens, hi the sea is Miper-abtni-ilanoe of iish—easily caught when the low tides leave only a few im lies of water on the many coral roofs which lay scattered in all directions. Sting-rays, sharks, oetopii. lobsters, wvoider! nllyeolonreil parrot-fish, called “rav>iirawi” (‘‘easy”) hevausc ol the facility with which they are caught : gatnlib . painted coral lish; and host flavoured of i all tho spta kletl “ika-loa” < “black-J (i-di”). a kind of sen-hnss. Tailing' these, there are clams I “vasua 1 and many other kinds of sliell-lish- ineltidinr ‘tli,. "va” which lives in a narrow tunnel sell-excavated in the solid elnsotexturod limesione ot 1 lie coral known as “Vat 11 Vugii." They are so neatly and deeply embedded in ihe coral that, j to obtain them, one must go provided with an old axe e.r some other tool eipiallv t np'.nble of splitting the hard ; mas.-es of broken reef. In the Ircsn water, as already mentioned am tidi t “dranii”). prawns and eels ; anil arnieil with either spear, net. “ilnva” pn-son-vine, or nothing bid her two hands, n Fijian woman rarely fails to satisfy her household’s constant demand fm lish.” •'lslands el the Blest!" I rue enough, mi ' supposes, in a world, now torn by the fury of opposing armies, now vainly 1 tinging to a hope of universal peace, and now distressed by the wailings ot •1 starving multitude, forced to pa.v the penalty for the pride and misrule (embodying that deepest of wrongs a trust misapplied), of a compnrnticoly few men. Such is the 1 ragedy of socialism I The failure of an Impotent Theory, as old in the history of man. so impossible in practice; a theory periodically revived from dead ashes ol its former self, rekindled, only to but n fitfully with treacherous Haines, betraying man to bis greatest enemy—sell ; and then to die. suffocated by its own poisonous breath! A misconception arising in an environment ot civilisation from man's lack ol knowledge of himself and the limits of his own nature. 11l Fiji, there is a curious system by which tile lives of the natives are ruled bv a strange medley ol customs and , laws wherein are united, in apparent harmony, rank Socialistic forbearance and most autocratic tyranny. The communal system is more natural and more tolerable from its origin and growth among uncivilised surroundings than is that dangerous and liery namesake, born iu the fancied security ot the oldest and most advanced countries of the world. It is a natural development. arising of necessity. If a home is to bo built or a garden planted the whole town assits. The ownership of land is clearly defined and adhered to, but smaller property is generally unstable in its tenure. Clothes pass from hand to hand, with or without the owner’s knowledge or consent, and owing to the system called “kere-kere • (literally “cadging”), money is not long

in the posession of him who earned it. To refuse a kere-kore is to lose caste, and lienee there is no advantage in being wlmt we may term rich, at least it, worldly goods. Sometimes chiefs, either Government appointed officials, or those with hereditary rank, so abuse their privileges that the common native cannot help complaining, but- alyvavs in secret, tor they would never dare to openly object, even in cases allecting the honour of their women folk. Snell facts are sail enough to remember, when speaking ol a people who are otherwise happy and contented. even though they have many claims whieh certainly are'often unnecessary, made on them by both missionary and Government. There is a modern word which admirably describes the illegal tvrunny of the small chief over Ins people, and that is “graft,” and gralt of the worst sort, as it is apparently winked at by higher officials. who, sometimes being interested parties, consistently forget their duty. But to return to our foraging expedition. We were wading through a pool up to our knees, when I übucttt u Maidenly pointed upwards, over our heads. The top of a giant “\esi'' (nfzelia bijuga) tree over-hung the pool, and its spreading branches were crowded with what looked like great black fruit, which I knew could not he so, and my doubt was speedily dissipated by the two little children. Lnnietta and Sioni. who broke into excited cries of “Beka I Belial" Bella is the (lying fox —>t pretty animal, with hatlike wings and brown tur with a golden ring around bis neck and there they slept, (each hanging head-downwards with Ins wator-proof wings lolded ueat--1; about his far little body, and his nose tucked under the folds. It was a rare xigliL, soon disturbed when a shot from the heavy bore rifle (only tired after much persuasion), though missing its aim, sent the strange animals living around in blind, .uncontrolled flight. They arc nocturnal fruit-eaters and the lull glare of the sunlight blinded them. Scon after this we lell the stream, and began climbing up the slopes ol the main range- of hills -they can hardly be called mountains —our guide (louring tin way with his ciuie-kuife, and we ascended. He painted out the “Salats" and the “.Malawaci." both trees to he avoided ; the former on account ol its large leaves covered with stinging hairs, and the latter for the poisonous burning juice secreted tinder the hark.

We soon reached our •destination, ami the party scattered to look for the brown, red or green shoots of the yam vines, which at tin's lime of the year are just sprouting, and which to the practised eye ol the native are ample signs by w hich to tell the size and value of the root hidden in the earth. There ale a great many varieties, so many in fact, that only the older and more experienced men can he relied upon to distinguish and name them properly. Several promising shouts having Keen found. Tabueavu turned his attention to the providing of a tool with which to do the digging. Choosing a sapling of solin' lull'll wood- perhaps “vtnm' or “kail loa." he ini ;t length of about six feet, and sharpening one end into a Hat one-sided point, intimated that lii.s “doka” was completed, ami ready to begin work. The slope ol the hillside is an advantage, and he soon had t!u earth loosened up on the lower side and liesl Inn mg cut the many surface rods of contiguous saplings, hi- set to clearing the earth out with ids hands. In this way. and with these ccnmimiacl tools, a hole is excavated lieside the yam. on one side only a hole which in favourable circumstances, billows the root to its lull length—often a matter of five feet or more—after which the top of the yam is cut off. iiiiil left to or.'"' again on the side ot the hole- the main portion being,arcTuly removed intact. A bush yam coming out of the ground is quite free from earth, and varies in diameter, from four to six or more incites, and :n length from two to six feet. I here is an apparently futile law enforcing Hie replanting of the top part of every I usli yam dug. with a penalty of live shillings tor e;o h intriiigemeiit. hut it is rarely, if ever, carried out. Thus me day passed: lor soon, growling wcarv ol' walihing old Tabueavu silent delving. ] threw ol!' the reserve ol social distinction that joined in tin-luii--be. wielding the "doka" with Inexpert touch, and I. being young"!', on my knees throwing out tla- loosened dirt. With the went of damp pleasant earth in one’s nostrils ami tif-■ pea e of the summer forests in one’- heart there i- little inclination In fcmced-ei the - “Strange di-ea-c of modern life With it- sick hurry, its divided aims." or to (are in the least what one'flieuds would say either in i omleinnati: in or in envy of a happincs- they cannot share, did they but know of -neb primitive occupations. We wandered limn one vine to ano! her, lot-getting time and even the

unlit ill' lood. ,*il. ml tin- middle of tin' ill l .'i'imon .I lie children. who had iiiiiii.--cd (ln> m -1 vo.s by looking for vein shoots, swinging on i]ic strong loops of giant liune; cic <ninl’l’ollinfr ns ;i!l rhihl roi' are wont (o do, finally I'iiiim to laiU'. ami Sill- down In “moke"- •diiuni;.' !iit)•))i 1 v of tilings and events, tin- meaning r.l" which miisi lmvn hoon beyond I hide understanding. They ivere "niches" of ilm (Ireat War. recalling ih.e cheery sailne.-', ol dnnnrling leooos. I h" <n;iHisiou and terror ol great battles, cnlmiriatill>; in the imaginary ciptnr- ol the Kaiser, and finally. ilm joy and laughter e.l victorious warrior-; ivi timing lo I he distant home, oyer tlu* wastes of ocean. And as this music of children's voices filled the silent forest with memories ol' the pasi I could not Itelo 11 1i11 1 .i11 «■' how 1 it! I• • these sini|do people reuld understand if the sacrifice and suliVriug o asiom d iiv such a iviii’. And now the singers were thirsty, so Tahneavn hade them jo> and tools lor w.ater in the near-* v ravine; lull they went only a lew yards and returned saving they tv ere afraid ol •‘ievoras" or spirits. This was not surprising for Yiti is a hind whose every hill and rorncr is the home of some tevora or oilier---some dreaded, others respected and almost worshipped. I told them they should nol he afraid, for were there not laities in every forest, who drank the honey of the Honors and whose dntv it was to protect little children from harm! A child's belief in fairies is not. after all. without reason, for are not such things merely personifications oi those certain manifestations of nature, which no scientist can explain away, ami which do not fail to impress the seeker after trouble with the futility of any such nairou unnatural doctrine as Atheism. I went with them to look tor water, hut, finding the ravine perfectly dry. returned to quench one thirst with til l ' sweet is! i water, which flows in nhiindame from the rut sumi' of the "waliIjiri”. a huge climher hearing great curved henn-pods. tfnee and four feel in length. Towards evening the fishers tame, and. taking v, lint y a ms they tonic! carry, -oi off homewards, accompanied by the children, while Tahneavn and I went to look for a few more mots before sundown. Two large one- completed a load.-and we hurried through the fast lengthening shadows of evening, to the stream, where we stopped, only to quench our thirst. Crossing the gill!v, we climbed out on to the bracken wastes of the ridge behind Nnvoia. and fought our way through j till git* reeds ami scrub, to that old abandoned town, with its plantation of tall coco-palms and great orange trees. To si ramble iil> one of the smaller palms and pull down a number of half-ripe nuts, was the work of a moment ; but even as we opened the fruit and drank of the grateful juice, the last flecks of goltl- ' im sun-light disappeared with that suddenness which always seems so marked in the tropics. ! Then down to tlio track which leads over the hills homewards. At TCoro we found the others with a blazing tire, which, driving the shadows from undei the great “wi” and “vesi" trees, lighted up the faces of the children where they sat dividing their spoils—hemes of ‘tibia, saea. and teba—sweet perfumed and strung as necklaces till eaten a lire which, moreover gave promise of solid refreshment to the weary; . for yams and prawns cooked in the coals are not to be passed by. oven if one has to bo content with "wi" leaves for plate, and fingers for knife and fork. ■ , , o • There is no such work as • hurry in the Fijian language—at least in that language which is interpreted by their actions. They know and love the word “malvm” meaning by and bye. or any

old time in the indefinite future; and these my companions for the day were happily oblivious to the lateness of the hour, and the rapidity with which the lazy minutes slipped away. So we rested awhile, listening to the singing of running water, and the innumerable other night voices of a tropical forest —the perpetual chirping ot the crickets (“malm") the aeroplane-like buzz of the beka’.s wings, flying high above the trees, and the far-olf booming ol a wood pigeon (“boqe'H—sonnds as full of meaning to the b iji nightviimlerer as iuexpfieable to the uninitiated When at last we did move, the moon had risen, and we travelled the rest of the way home, helped in our way by the brilliant light oi a perfect cloudless night, our burdens lightened by the singing of the children, whose clear voices sent their happy hymns now to the Great God (Kalondina). echo,dug far into the stillness ot tin. nio-ht— helping them, no doubt, to forget-'' the fearsome .terrors ol the n jirht—enshrouded thickets on the road-side, even as it helped us lorgot for the moment the morrow and its inevitable promise of weariness. —Bayard Barham.