THE BEAUTIES OF WESTLAND.

Hokitika Guardian, 21 February 1923, Page 4

THE BEAUTIES OF WESTLAND.

MOI'XTATX AXIJ FOREST SCENERY'. (B.v R. A. KciiM'r. Written for the “Lyttelton Times.") 'I hero ;ire few scene.-, in New Zealand to-thtv more beautiful thru the western forests made bright by the crimson rata. A vivid red blend.- with the endless shinies of gri on in tunning the colour scheme, and it lights up the gorges, touches the hilltops and reflects its glow in the waters of the hush-fringed lakes. Before the rata blooms again we are finally promised the through train service, which will bring the people of the west into closer touch with us of the east, making Llioir land more our land and so in the reverse order.

Apart altogether from the commercial advantages of the completed line, it is of interest to reflect how much more easily the general run of people will bo able to visit parts of the West Coast which are at present but remotely known. Almost everyone is familiar. cither by hearsay or experience, with the rugged grandeur of the Otira (Jorge and the more serene hut orjuallv attractive beauty of the Buller (Jorge. Many travellers know the charm of the drive through the forests and the lake country of South Westland, al*o the thrill of climbing the far-famed glaciers and the siiow-cnated mountains. ft his been left, however, fi people who nefuallv live' on the coast and a com-

paratively fev vi-ilor* to appreciate countless other beauty spots which are Still i-s .Nature made them. \ feast of such scenery was enjoyed by some cyclists from Christchurch recently between Westport and flroynioutli. The orthodox route for this journey is by way of tin- Buller (loige and Keeltmi. lon by f Miming the const road one way an excellent round trip is available. At pro-ent tinroad is very rough, and at Brighton Beach .twenty-seven miles from (Vestport and thirty-three miles from flrevmotit.lt. there is a gap of two mil s without even a track. At low tide the beach serves, but at high water tic- alternative of swamp laud i- n-d attractive. It seems strange tbaj tlcre should he this l.wrnk in the eonstal read service, but it is understood that a vote has at last been placed on the Estimates for the nerr-ssarv expenditure.

The main features of the trip down this part of tile eoa-t are the long stretches of bench and rock, resi-mhing the east coast scenery at *!\aikouri ; the unspoiled bush, with tall nikau palms that strangely resemble sip tropical vegetation; a scries of blowholes and interesting lime-stone formation.-; ami tin- charm of the rough |||| 1; I ICO ■!. „ indite; • round Ib. , and liei- the landscape h-iruoutt eWitli the si-a.-i-ape tin- view i- of exec; tion.al grandeur. Wlien travelling south f ont Westport-, the first place to arl'est the attention i- tin- Tota-'a Hit c-r, about twelve miles on the wav. As you ciriss the bridge and as; end tile long, winding hill, your attention is promptly arrestnil lay the towering el-11-. profusely covered with ferns, and the gra-olid slopes which delight the eye and cause von to pander anew on th" siiiua-bug eliarms of tin- wonderful country. Baling on hors -baek- up iho Eox I-ivei l,i see the eaves, two or three miles ! mill Brighton, the w riter decided that this is one of the i-huieesi til-hits in the way ol scenery which he has ever viewed. The t-.irimujs wav

leads 0.-i-r narrow river Hat- overhung by perpendicular dill's of limestone formation, and -i singular wealth of unlive bush and ferns. There is an

abundance of I,ini liC. ■, including pigeons, end in (he mm so of the short ride a dozen wild goats wort* -ceil at close quart it.-. In tin- anyone,- of dojis these latter were mil particularly :; eared. The eaves are reached through a meal natural nr--liwa\ high up in flic ehfls on tlie inn I hern side. Though smaller. those eaves rosoilllilo to some extent Huakuri and .\ranui eavos at M aitomo. .Stalactites droop down in gre.cel'ul format ions and stalagmites reach up to moot them. Moth possess a purity of colour which glistens brightly when illuminated. Mow many people in tin* South Island know of these eaves h When they are ooi eloped by the Tourist Department they will he among the most interesting sights of the Western tour. Some day this stretch of coast will most surely form part of a round trip which will also include the Muller Gorge. ft is said that Ihe coastal scenery to the north of Westport, and in the direction of Karamea is equally beautiful. I his, also, is likely to he made more available to visitors.

One of the grandest trips, and easy to accomplish, is that front the railway terminus at Moss in the Franz Josef Glacier. An excellent road—except in one stretch where the saw-milling IraHic has been heavy—winds through one of tin- most mngnitieent of the New Zealand forests ; over Mount Hercules, with its wonderful variety of native bush and ferns; by the shores of the three picturesque lakes, [nntlte, Wahapo and Mapourika ; and then through a veritable fairyland of fern groves, extending right up to the glacier. The Franz Josef is known as the most easily a '-re- -i hit- of all glaciers, and its distinguishing feature is that it is surrounded by a wealth of hush. The iit-sL view of the glacier is obtained a few miles before reaching the Wailto Gorge. As you look over the top of the intervening hush you see what resembles a great ocean wave suspended in mid-air. On closer view this is seen to he the terminal face of the great river of ice between the foothills, which extend from the snow mountains of the Southern Alps. There is a climb of five or six hundred iect up the terminal face, and once on the glacier the climber is rewarded by a view which embraces ice pinnacles, crevasses, and occasional ice eaves. The colours are white and blue —the most delicate tinting of sapphire blue. When the sun is shining on the ire it is wise

to counteract the glare by wearing coloured glasses. A party of climbers on the bills above the glacier recently enjoyed the unique spectacle of seeing some fifty people no up the terminal face, and, in the wake of the guides, go climbing up various parts of the glacier. The watchers had a “dress-circle view.’ first fit me the guide, laden with a ruesae containing the requirements nf his party, and then in Indian file came die men and women under bis care. Many of the latter, plus their heavy hoots, puttees and pantaloons, wore coloured sports jackets, providing a kaleidoscopic effect which was picturesque. When properly on the glacier the parties proceeded on their various ways, winding in serpentine fashion in the wake of their guides. With one exception the parties were on a oneday climb, and after an hour or so oil the ice the turned back in the direction of the accommodation house, some tinco miles from the glacier. The foremost- party was out on a two days’ trip of about four miles up the ice to Defiance Hut, and thence back on the following day. The food supplies for the party find the personal requirements of the ladies were carried by a guide in addition to his ice axe for si rp-cii Lt imlc juiil Lis rope tor assisting the climbers when necessary. Several minor crevasses were negotiated without concern and then at a turn in the glacier a narrow bridge of ice had to Tie crossed. The watchers observed the cure with which the experienced guide and his party executed the crossing and then, by way of encouragement, sent down a cheer to help them on their way. Back came a corresponding cheer and upward went the climbers oil their thrilling expedition. Those who have come under the fascination of fee and mountain climbing say there is no pleasure to compare with it. Each voar the number of visitors to the New Zealand glaciers grows larger and who can s;iv inti that in time tve shall develop a hand of climbers equal to the best in the Old World:- Every improvement in the facilities for travel will assist towards this end.