ADVERTISING WESTLAND

Hokitika Guardian, 16 November 1922, Page 4

ADVERTISING WESTLAND

A TOURIST JAUNT. VISITING THE LAKES AND GLACIERS. (By “The Nikau”, in the Southland Times, Invercargill). The magnificent scenery of the province of Westland has made the district famous in the tourist world and each year a growing number of tourists crosses the ranges to invade its beauty spots. The tourist first sets foot in Westland when on reaching the dividing line on the summit of Arthur’s Pass, lie begins the descent of the famous Otira Gorge. Here as the coaches wend their way down the steep and winding road, one can look down on the wild Otira river surging and battling its sway through the rocks below. Wliat a contrast between those bush covered hills and t-hc ones just left behind. We must now place our entire confidence in the coach drivers and their teams arid another six miles will bring us to Otira. Here we. may change over either to the train for Grey mouth, Reeflon arid Hokitika, or to the motor jet vice to Hokitika direct.

On a trip to the glacier it is usual for the tourist to take the motor service. The run covers sonio 50 miles and passes through large areas of virgin hush wliera the prolific growth of tree ferns stands out close on the road edge. How restful to the eyes is the aspect of this green foliige—so opposed to the tussock-covered hills on the east. The route leads through the Teremnkau Valley, skirts the town of Kumnrn, and on through the old mining villages of Stafford and Goldsborough to Hokitika. From Tvumnra to Stafford the count! y presents a very disturbed appearance. These huge heaps of stones are silent witnesses of the days when gold-mining was a flourishing industry. There is even yet a .considerable amount of mining in this vicinity. The method is alluvial sluicing the water being supplied by the New Zealand Government from their extensive dams and water rights in the higher country. When Hokitika is reached about 7 p.m. the first day’s journey from Christchurch is completed.

From here the tourist will find a good motor road through virgin lnish country to Lake Knnie.ri—one of the famous beauty spots. On a clear day the view of this lake is magnificent with its hush coming down to the water’s edge and extending out in reflection. Hokitika gets its water supply from Lake Kanieri. This lake will some day he the source of extensive hydro-electric schemes in AVcstland. At present it supplies the power for the electric dredge on Rimu Flat and also for lighting the town of Hokitika. The country around the lake is becoming a popular deer-stalking locality and opossums are also plentiful. A motor launch run across the lake brings us to the Dorothy Water Falls said to he the finest falls in the district. Adjacent to the lake is a trout hatchery —something of special interest. For here the artificial process of hatching and rearing different species of trout can he seen in all its stages. Tt is most interesting to follow the process from tho initial stage of “stripping” tho male and female fish until finally the young trout are exported to other districts. A train journey of six miles from Hokitika brings ns to Lake Mahinapua —of smaller size and in some ways lesser grandeur than Kanieri, but nevertheless possessing its own particular interests. One of these is Mirror Creek where the reflections are so perfect that one is never sure where water ends and land begins. Lake Mahinapua is one of the most popular local picnic resorts in AVestland. A visit to one of the larger sawmills and to the big electric dredge on Rimu Flat will prove most interesting. Butler Bros.’ sawmill at Runtapu is one of the largest in the Dominion. Here wo find that modern machinery is saving the great physical exertion which sawmill work once demanded. Machinjery deals with tho log from its entry into the mill until it leaves in sawn timber. AVe notice here a saw-bench where no less than 12 boards are sawn off each time the log passes under its saws.

The Rimu dredge is situated about two miles south of Hokitika. It is the largest dredge in Australasia, driven by electricity and equipped with the latest modern electrical appliances. The dredg* works continuously, stopping only on Sundays to “wash up.” It is understood that the “wash lips” are satisfying nil expectations of the American owners. AYe were not allowed on hoard except on a written permit from the company’s office.

AA’hat a contrast between the method of mining and that carried on on the sea benches! Should the tourist have an opportunity of seeing a “beach comber” at work ho will appreciate the difference although the profits may he proportionately good.

To begin the glacier trip we leave Hokitika about 9 a.m. by motor. The first 20 miles through hilly, semi-tim-bered country brings ns to Ross. Ross is the southern railway terminus and was iii years gone by a busy mining centre. Here is was that the Ross (Goldfields' Company failed in their scheme to work the rich ground tinder the town. The gold here is below sea level and the rising water proved a gteat difficulty. Tins company brought electrical energy from Lake Kanieri to 'work the philips arid it' was generally regretted' that such enterprise did not meet with better results. It was at Ross that the famous “Roddy” nugget was found.

We then motored on through seven 'miles of unique" hush scenery on the Ross-Fergu'son’s road, noting particularly the natural avenues of tall pine trees. Another six or seven miles .takes us across the Waitalm rivers and down on to the shores of Lake liinthe—the first of the southern lakes. The road skirts it closely and the tourist is afforded a very fine view. On a clear day these southern lakes present a grand aspect with their rich green hapk-grounds of densely covered lijlls. Tile water appears dark in colour—the calm shining surface sparkles in the sunshine and the stillness of the scene is broken only bv the song of a tui or the sweep of a pigeon's wings. In its season the rata blossoms add still further beauty to the scene and to the reflections. Leaving Tantile we gradually open out into the in-ter-Wanganui Flat. Here there are some 27,000 acres of good farming land. It is a flourishing dairying and stock-raising district and the more surprising for land of such extent and quality "'as not anticipated. We lunch at Haii Hari (as this inter-Wan-ganui district is ealled) and pushing on another two miles we come to tlie little Wanganui river. Here the ears are towed across hv horses, hut in very good weather the car can cross on its own power. Rising out of the river we begin the ascent of Mt. Harcujes. It is a remarkable climb, and the descent on the other side is even more interesting. The road winch down through the bushy hill-side, certainly giving us a very fine view, hut jstill at times arousing our anxiety about the strengh and power of the brakes. The pigeons are very plentiful on this sunny slope and rather than showing fear they sit dose to the read apparently interested in the passing traffic.

After crossing the Wataroa river we find ourselves in another flourishing district similar t» Hari Hari. Just south of Wataroa is the nnbridged Waitnngi river, which, Ike the little Wanganui is at trines a serious drawback to motor traffic. A few more miles through the bush and we find ourselves at the side of Lake Wnhapo—a lake somewhat similar to Jant,he and like it so very different to lakes in ether districts. The road here skiits the lake fiom end to end, and we get a much clearer view than at lanthe. Black swan, wild duck and crested grebes ar# fairly numerous here, for all the southern lakes are game sanctuaries and the surrounding country scenic reserves. Another interesting spot just further on is the old sawmill driven by the outlet waters of Lake Wahnpo. Time will not permit us to remain long here, for the glacier is still 15 miles away. At Okarito Forks the rend turns inland taking along the edges of Lake Mapouvika. This lake is famous for its reflections of mountain and hush scenery. Darts of the Southern Alps are at times clearly reflected. Tins lake is generally considered the prettiest in South Westland. We run on

through the farming valley of the Tetnro river, and here away to the left we got our first view of the great Franz Joseph Glacier. There it lies between the hills—-dazzling in white. It .appears to he the overflow of snow from the higher Alps, compressed into ice and furred on by its own mighty weight down through the gorge into the Waiho river. Another few miles complete our journey and we are at the Waiho Hotel. To-day we have covered 93 miles and have passed through some of Westland’s finest scene! y.

The Waiho or Franz Joseph Glacier is tho lowest level glacier in the world. A suspension bridge across the Waiho river and a mile of pretty hush track brings us on to the ice. We are wearing special boots and armed with ice-axes and picks we proceed, under the direction of the guide, to explore the valley of ice. The beauties of Franz Joseph Glacier are now widely known and have been frequently dealt

with by able writers. I do .not thcrcfoi'e propose to give’ fifty further details of our days on the ice. Waiho is a busy place in the summer and special arrangements have to be made to accommodate the tourists. At times tourists travel another sixteen niiles further south, to the Fox glacier in Cook’s Valley, or Weheka. “Weheka” is a Maori word meaning “a iJace which is hard to reach,” and it has been well applied in this instance for the narrow winding road acres-. Cook’s saddle would rouse the nerves of the average traveller. It is only witli the past twu years that this ro cl has been improved beyond the pack; track stage. The unsteady nature o'? the liill-sides and the deep gorges we; 6 problems tha tbaffled the pioneer r< a maker. The grassy road from Wailio to Weheka winding thiougli such broken ccutry and mossing several wild mountain streams has a special scenic beauty of its own. Once on the other side the road winds down into an extensive stock-raising district. From here the Fpx glacier is of easy access, lieing at the head of Cook river. This glacier being more remote than the Franz Joseph, does not receive so great a patronage, hut frequently the guides have brought parties across from one glacier to the other. The Fox glacier lias a very fine appearance as it winds down from the higher mountains and then turns abruptly into the lower forges. Thpre are large terminal moraines at the foot of this glacier, and it is generally believed that the “Fox” is gradually receding. It is most interesting to note the . Cook river boiling up in a muddy whirl from beneath the foot of the glacier. However the time for the lotiim to Hokitika kas arrived. The tour has been all too short, and with the scores of other visitors we regret we eaiinct remain longer in this district amongst some of the world’s finest scenery Son

Some interesting and thrilling accounts are given of the pioneer days in South 'Westland and undoubtedly those fust settlers did endure great privations away in those isolated parts. Once hack in Hokitika we may either visit Gveymouth and its places of interest and leave via Hcefton and the Boiler Gorge to Nelson, or return across Arthur’s Pass. This , will probably he our last journey through the Pass, for in the near future tfic Otirn tunnel will claim all that traffic which at present crosses the hills. In this short account of a lengthy tour we have had to pass by many items and places of interest and make only brief inference to others on whi.h pages could he written. However sufficient lias been said to fairly inform the reader of the parts of Westland which claim the tourist’s particular attention, and which have established the district's scenic reputation. Finally, as we look hack over our tour we cannot hut express the hope that the scenic beauty of Westland will never les-