At Mt Everest.

Hokitika Guardian, 20 June 1922, Page 2

At Mt Everest.

AUSTRALIAN ANJ) N.Z. CABLE ASSOCIATION; LONDON, Julie 17: Dr Bruce continued—While the establishment of camps was being completed Mallory and Somervell, as an advanceguard started to make a road up the North Col. Tue weather throughout the operations was unsettled, the thermometer ranging to eight below zero. The country was almost bare of fuel. The porters work was- beyond praise considering the difficult country. : In a fortnight they transported suffi- ’ cieiit supplies for sixty people for a j whole month, to a height of between sixteen and twenty one thousand feet. This did not include the camp at twen- , ty three thousand feet, and the camp- \ let at twenty five thousand. The latter was quite unprecedented n.s 24,600 ft. was the previous highest record. How soon the whole force is collectable at the advanced base, in a ques- ; tion of supply of the elusive Tibetan 1 I coolies, whereon the expedition was ob- ' liged to lean. These were most difficult • to obtain owing to the season of the ; | year. However, the chief difficulties . • are now ended. The two main enemies i i are the shortness of time and t'fie un- i settled weather. Consequently Strutt . who has a first class mountain know- ! ledge, has been placed in. charge of the I advanced base, and it was considered ■ advisable To take the first opportunity 1 to make a reconnaisanee before the oxyJ gen plant was ready, because it was * felt if tbe camp could be established at twenty five thousand feet, it would be of tbe greatest importance when tbe time came for the grand assault- armed with oxygen. The weather did its best to annihilate this reconnaissance. Mai. lory and party descended in desperate circumstances, after one of the grandest struggles with a mountain ever made.

Mallory adds an account Of this dash which reached a height of 26,800 feet. He tells of the difficulties as they mounted, with a piercingly cold wind, tlie men slowly cutting steps in the frozen snow and ice. They camped at midday in a most uncomfortable position as it was necessary to send ’ back the porters, before the weather got worse, to prevent them getting frostbittn. Three of Mallory’s fingers and Norton’s, ear were frostbitten. Morsliead was badly chilled, and is unwell, fsmiw fell during the night and next morning Mbrshead stated he Would not proceed farther, as his condition was such that it Would only keep his companies hack. The other two pushing on ward, were impeded by the snow, but found travelling less difficult than anticipated. The chief drawback was difficulty of breathing, owing to the rarity of the air.

With the aneroid registering 26,800 feet, they turned to descend and picked up Morshead. goon a nasty slip oreurred and the three were held up by a rope belayed to a single ice axe. We were more cautious afterwards but were now racing against darkness. Morshead showed great- pluck in descending hut was unwell and exhausted. Norton had to support him on his shoulder after sunset. We had to cross a dangerous crevasse, and lit a candle and groped for the ice axe when ascending. The candle burned out and hope seemed extinguished, but groping blindly someone found the rope and we reached camp only to find the most essential of all things missing, a drink for which onr parched throats had yearned all day. We had relieved our thirst with a mixture of jam and frozen milk, and snow. Morshead declared that thirst alone did him up. Mallory adds that with a windless day they might have bad the summit within reach. Our margin of safety was small and three of them might have been out of action by frostbite. They were not fortunate, hut in view of- the severe conditions, were not wholly unlucky.