LIFE IN THIBET.

Hokitika Guardian, 24 February 1922, Page 4

LIFE IN THIBET.

DALAI LAMA AND HIS PEOPLE

AN ENGLISHMAN’S OBSERVATIONS.

An interesting story of Tibet and its people" whs'told to a representative of tho' “Pioneer” by Mr C. A. 8011, Political Agent for Tibet, Bhutan, and Sikkim, who returned to India on December after a stay of eleven months at Lhasa. Mr Bell had formed a close friendship with the Dalai Lama ten years before, and in previous journeys had become fully acquainted with the language.

The Dalai Lama is a great believer in cleanliness. Being a tactful ruler he does not try too rigidly to impose his belief on his subjects, although so far as he can lead them along 1 the path of sanitation and hygiene he does. For himself he sets an example by eschewing the dyist and close surroundings of the city, and his summer palace is situated two miles away in a broad valley of beautifully-cultivated green fields, through which the Kyi-chu or Ritver of Happiness fitly flows. On either side of the vajlley the hills rise to the height of some 5000 to 8000 feet, and as the valley itself is 12,000 feet above; sea! level, the real grandeur of these natural walls can he imagined. A COLD CLIMATE.

The Dalai Lama placed at Mr Bell’s disposal the house of a former regent, situated about half a mile away- from his own residence. The climate, of course, was cold and in the winter months, as a rule the Tibetan ruler retires to the warmer solidity of one of the monasteries in the neighbourhood. Mr Bell found him as friendly l as ever, and in his talks he showed a frankness and sincerity which made his views) of particular value. A man of 4 1, t.ie Dalai Lama lias now recovered from the illness which threatened to lie serious early in the year. Ho follows closely the events of tho world outside, and reads the Indian papers in order to inform himself. Tibetans are possessed of extraordinary political sense, and their judgment has a shrewdness; which brings a touch of modernity into their old-time world. The basis of their society is the feudalism of the late Middle Ages. Their nobility is a class apart, followed down the scale by the yeomen, the traders, and then the workers of the land, tho last being paid partly ii) money and partly in kind. The trader is nl prosperous member of the community; he imports mules from Mongolia, silks from China, and cotton cloth from Tndia. The officials of tht State are equally drawn from the lay anil the ecclesiastical orders. The nobles have lo provide most of the lay officials although some come from the yeoman class. The Government is carried on by a State Council of four—three lay and one monastic official—presided ov*r by a fifth, who is really the Prime Minister and the intermediary between tie Dalai Lama and the Council. A National Assembly, in which the abbots aie very powerful by virtue of their representation of over twenty thousand monks, is composed of all classes of the population, including artisans. In many ways it exercises more authority than the Council for the Dalai Lama often pays more attention to its views. A STRONG RULER.

As a ruler he follows the expression i i’ pulilie opinion, but being a man of strong character, lie does not hesitate to act otherwise when he considers that public opinion is wrong. Like Nepal and Bhutan, Tibet just now is particularly happy in the possession of a ruler of an exceptionally resolute character directed by an intelligent and sympathetic interest in the welfare of his people. Killing over about five million subjects inliabitating a country of some !>()'),000 square miles, the Dalia Lama is anxious for the development of bis country on cautious lines; lie is opposed to foreign penetration, but be is distinctly anxious for British friendship and assistance. The great need of bis administration is one not unknown elsewhere. He desires to find more revenue and be realises that development of the resources of the land is the way to the fulfilment of that desire.

The country for administrative purposes is divided into districts or jongs ruled over bv a iongpon, who may be wither a lay or a monk official, dong means fort, and the name therefore comes from the fort in which the jongpen lives. The great festival of the year is that of the New Year, at which the itow officials arc appointed. The ceremony partakes of the nature of an ■ uii :aii;):i, and when be iias become an official the Tibetan ceases to wear bis hair in pigtail fashion, but coils it up on lii head in cylindrical curls. Mr Bell was the first white man to be present at this ceremony, and its existence was unknown to him until lie reached Tibet this time. The Tibetan is a hardy stiong man, but he :s not lon.'- lived according to Western standards. This is possibly due to the height at which he dwells, tbej increase in re 1 corpuscles throwing a great r stiain upon bis heart. The women ate in a good position, and fairly independent by comparison with the Women of other Oriental countries. V Al.i i 101) M ARMAGH CUSTOMS.

Coiltnuy to the usual impression, polyamliy is not the general practice in the country. In western central Tibet

par, ia si known in Indian, polynia! rj is most prevalent, but on the v.little monogamy is observed, while, p l.vgamy is not unknown in certain parts. The standard of morality can-, rad. be described as low. ft is more accurate to say that the Tibetan, as a rule, is unmoral, therefore natural radior lean conventional. Hence no doubt the varying nature of the marriage customs. Education is of two

birds, cec 1 jsiasiical and secular. There arc two schools in Lhasa and not many elsewhere. Generally the children are taught in their homes. The nobles and yeomen engage a tutor, who not only ! 'echos the childrten of the house but • i !i them teaches the children of five servants and others attached to the house. This democratic trait is temp :cd b,v the observance of a marked distinction in the place in the room, Ofs? upied by the young pup" The Tibetan is fond of drinking, but e cut. on feast days, when it is a yr« : n‘ of courtesy to the host to finish

•lor the table, b.e is moderate in bis use of the barley-beer which is bis favourite beverage and a not too heady decoction. In the monasteries much good work is done in painting on silk,

and eacli monastery lias its band coin- / posed of wind and stringed instruments 1 Stringed music is often found outside the monasteries, but then, as a'rule, it is the monopoly of the roadside beggar, of which class there are plenty of members in the country. They • are usually of the gipsy type and far from miserable or down on their luck. The doctor in Tibet is not held in great . estdeni. Before a man can consult him j lie lias to go to tlid priest, who will de- ! cide whether the illness is due to an evil spirit or to physical misfortune.

Thus as a rule the Western practice is reversed: The Church comes before t.lie doctor. Such medical work as is | done is mainly confined to the use of herbs. PROSPERITY AND CONTENTMENT. In regard to the internal condition of the country, Mr Bell judged that the people were, on the whole, contented and prosperous. They have an instinctive suspicion to foreigners, and who can blame them P The monies, naturally, are the most conservative in this respect, but during Mr Bell’s stay they became as friendly as the rest of the population. A striking example of this can be given. In March the relations between the artfiy and the monks were rather strained, and an outbreak was feared. Those outbreaks are particularly dreaded in Lhasa, for they have in the past given rise to terrible trouble, the Tibetan, when his blood is up. l icing very thorough in his methods'of slaughter. Although this serious feud was “boiling up” Mr 801 l and Colonel Kennedy, the doctor who accompanied him, went about quite freely, receiving nothing hut courtesy from both sides. Luckily the trouble blew over, and when in August it threatened to break about again, a notable tribute was paid to the English, visitor by the monks seeking his arbitration in their quarrel. This conquest of the monks was very pleasing* and it enabled Mr Bell, when he loft in the middle of October to take away with him nothing hut the happiest recollections of a wonderful eleven months spent in the wonderful country.