DEFIANT EVEREST.

Hokitika Guardian, 21 January 1922, Page 4

DEFIANT EVEREST.

By Gfeorgo D. Abraham “Unite far aild no farther!” In no uncertain voice Mount 'Everest has so answered the brave men who Myd essayed her conquest. Fierce storms and rarity of the air have proved adequate defences, and like moist of all other attacks on the world’s highest ihouhfcains, the limit has been reached under 24,000 ft. After exploring Mount Everest from practically every side with hopeless results, at the very last exhausting effort befdro the end of the season’s york a presumably feasible route was found. This was on the -great north-easterly ridge ,ahd after climbing aboYe tile 23,000 ft level, or some 6,000 ft below the summit; a fierce storm aggravated by the difficulties of exertion in the thin air, made upward progress impossible. Next year, earlier in the season, another attempt will be made. Will it suceed? Prospects are not hopeful. Certainly the present expedition has learnt much; for instance, only men of special physique and suitable youthfulness are of use at great altitudes. Between 30 and 35 year g would seem the most suitable age. Great distress may be felt below 28,00ft. but above that height the true trial will begin. Beyond 24,500ffc every step will mean a fight with ennui and physical weakness, and ere long the lack of oxygen may mean a real struggle for existence. Thus far no man has lived above 26,000 ft. without the artificial aid of oxygen.

Something of the difficulties of movement can be appreciated from the Duke of Abruzi’s attempt on Bride Peak, when an approximate height of 24,500 ft. was reached, the altitude record at the present time, They were a party in perfect physical training and thoroughly acclimatised to great heights. The rate of speed on show was scarcely 260 ft per hour, and on some easy rocks about 160 ft per hour. Great sped on Mount Everest will not be possible, and on the final heights it must certainly be less. “How much.?” is the real question. In any case, camps at hitherto unimagined altitudes must obviously be necessary. Several consecutive days of ~ood weather must be essential. Perfect stillness will not be an advantage, for the terrors of mountain sickness are worst at such times, and many have learnt ori the high Alpine shows that moderate stormy days have advantages in more energy of attack. Yet record storms are not wanted, for nn earlier expedition was defeated by a "shower” which lasted nearly three months. Luckily Mount Everest is the host situated of all the great peaKs so far as weather is concerned. Much will depend on the coolies, many of whom spend their lives at heights of over 14,000 ft. These men have special lung and heart development. and' though in the present exrWlition their altitude capabilities have scarcely equalled those of the Britons, ultimate sucres depends on their achievements in carrying camps and transport to great heights. Years of patient training may be required, and those who know the dangers and trials of the world’s bftrh places realise that, “slow and sure” must be the slogan of success. If Mount Everest is “rushed” the attempt becomes a gamble against fate with human life a,s the stake.