THE RETURN

Hokitika Guardian, 6 January 1921, Page 3

THE RETURN

PART V. From Jamaica to Limon Bay, the sea was very calm. 'Every night we were entertained with grand displays of sheet lightning. This is common in the Tropics, and is quite harmless, but it was odd to see the clouds and sea lit up by the vivid flashes and to listen for the thunder which never rumbled. Before sighting Panama we ran into a thunder-storm. A great grey cloud apjHJared on the horizon and rapidly approached accompanied by thunder and tiling. Coming nearer and near the lightning and the peals of thunder increased in strength until we had fairly reached the centre of the disturbance when the storm culminated with a blinding flash accompanied by a terrific report directly overhead. A few of the- lady passengers appeared to have been alarmed, but there was no damage done though afterwards it was said that the Aerial of the Wireless had been struck. Then as rapidly as tht storm had come it passed away. Before noon on October 24th, straight ahead there appeared a long range of blue bills partially enveloped in clouds. Away on the starboard bow the coast stretched in the distance to Costa Riga, to Nicaragua, and beyond to Hon. duras, while on the port, lay the gulf of Darien, the grave of so many hopeful Scottish adventurers. It was about 1707 that William Patterson the founder of the Bank of England started the Darien Scheme. Some say that he had been a Buccaneer in his youth, and that while with them in these regions he had evolved the idea of forming a settlement in the Isthmus which would tap the trade of India. As lie put it the time and expense of navigating to China, would be halved and European trade doubled.

The company was authorised to take possession of uninhabited territories in any part of Asia, Africa, or America. This alarmed the British East India Company, which took steps to squash their rivals William 111 was also persuaded to oppose the plan. Thus it became a political struggle between Eng land and Scotland, and caused untold bitterness. Right from the start the expedition was ill-fated. "What with opposition, dishonest contractors, and disagreements things weren’t flourishing, and after they’d set out matters became worse. Provisions wore* so short that the “gentlemen adventurers,” on arrival at Aladeira, which was the first port of call, sold their cloaks arid swords for food. Bad water caused a great number of deaths among them being Patterson’s wife. On landing they discovered that the cargoes shipped were practically worthless: “ill bought and over-rated.” So they could not trade without loss. The Spaniards—-ever-jealous- sent a protest to King William and prepared to attack thc Scotch. Thc latter denied that the Spaniards had any right to the territory, challenging them to prove their right either by inheritance, marriage, donation, purchase, surrender or conquest. Apparently the British Government feared that Dariens would become a second Algiers—a haunt for Buccaneers who would be attracted by tbe tales of gold and by thc prospect of plundering the Spaniards, at any rate they refused any assistance.

It was about this time that "the brave Benbow” ciid an action that should endear him to till Scots. Hearing of the proposed gpanish expendition lie sailed to Cartagena, and carried off two ships there which were intended for transporting the enemies troops to Darien. For this he was severely reprimanded. But what did he care? It is related that when hunting pirates in the Mediterranean, he captured a Salee Rover after a great tight. Ordering the dead pirates’ heads to be hacked off, he had them preserved in a tub of pickle. When he arrived at Cadiz, he went ashore with his nigger servant carrying them in a sack, (probably in order to claim head money). He had trouble with the Customs, and was taken before the Magistrates, who were quite willing to believe that the hag contained “salt provisions,” hut who were at the same time anxious to seq with their own eyes what was in the bag.

"I told you gentlemen, that they were salt provisions for my own use,” said he, “Roll ’em out on the table, Caesar, and gentlemen, if you like ’em, you can have ’em.” That’s the story, whether its true is another matter. After enduring terrible hardships the Scottish Scheme had to he abandoned. The death roll was fearful. To quote just one of the casualty lists: —"M itli the second expedition there sailed about 1390 men, of whom there was left 360, who were mostly dispersed to the British colonics, and very few returned honu;.” The monetary losses nearly -ruined Scotland, hut it is only lair to add that after the Union with England, it was refunded with interest. Nearing Lemon Bay, the entrance to the famous Porto Bello could he made out on the left. To the present day are to be seen the ruins of the Forts all overgrown with scrub, and with the Ancient Spanish cannon lying about dismounted. Here Admiral Vernon won a great victory and great fame. The Spaniards thought themselves impregnable, but just ns they found to their cost, at Gibraltar t they were mistaken. Had they followed the scouts’ motto, ol “Be Prepared” the result would have been different, for surprise was the essence of N ernon’s victory. Ihe harbour and town wero strongly protected by three forts, vet Vernon easily captured the place. Then are refitting his ships attacked Cartagena, further along the coast, where, however, he was not

so successful as the enemy were pre-

pared. At 2 o'clock, the Remuera. reached Colon, and tied up for the night at pier (i where she took in water. Those passengers who had been ashore at Kingston' and who had not been vaccinated since .were not allowed to land, as there was a “small pox scare.” People were very indignant for they bad been allowed to get ashore in Jamaica, and then were practically compelled to he vaccinated. Being a, soldier, I was of course “0.K.” (Orl Kerroct, as the Yankees say), for T merely had to produce my paybook, to shew that I’d been done. ‘ Going ashore and hiring a. oharry, (a for wheeled carriage) we drove* round to see the sights. The

railway runs downs Front Street, along which wo went. To the left lay the i,iisy harbour of Colon, with its numerous warves and great goods sheds, while on the right were the native stores with their high verandahs, the eating houses picture palaces ,and Ice cream parlours.

At the level crossing I noticed a “cute satety device.” AY lien an engine approached, a deep toned warning gong sounded, automatically, and an electrically controlled bar or gate swung into position, at the same time a danger sign was dispayed. On the huge locomotives, a bell seemed to take the place of a whistle. The Americans seem to delight in reversing the order of things. For instance in Newport News the trams had whistles, (which J presume must have been worse I with eompressid air) ; while the tugs were “tugs ’ a* ill, for they pushed. (To be continued).