Arctic Exploration.

Hawke's Bay Times, Issue 1534, 16 December 1873, Page 49

Arctic Exploration.

EXPEDITION OF THE POLARIS.

[Fjjoji tub Duxdee Abveotiseb, September 20.]

Rescue of the Crew of the Polaris,

The origin and character of the expedition which Captain Hall intended to prosecute in the Polaris, the results which were attained up to the time of his lamented death, and the ultimate separation of the crow, in consequence of a storm, are all matters with which the public are familiar. As is known, a portion of the crew of the Polaris, who had been left on the ice, was rescued •some time ago by the Tigris, sealer, off the Labrador Coast. What had become of those who remained in the ship no one could tell, and consequently, when the news readied Dundee on Thursday, that they were on board the Arctic, a pleasing feeling of excitement was created. On the loth October, last year, the vessel had got into a bad way. She was leaking a good deal, and, notwithstanding continuous pumping, her condition did not materially improve. What made matters worse was the occurrence of a very heavy gale of wind from the south-south-east-About six o'clock in the evening the ice got very firmly packed around the ship. By the strength of the wind, the Polaris, and the old ice iloe to which she had been attached for a considerable time, drifted away. The situation becoming desperate, the abandonment of the ship was resolved upon. In the darkness of a terrible night, the snow falling continuously in heavy flakes, a section of the crew was sent on the ice with the view of stowing away the stores and provisions, of which it was intended to empty the vessel. As the .night advanced the weather became more tempestuous, but, although the surroundings were of a very dismal character, no one seemed desponding. It was not the time to think of what was to occur. There was not a moment to lose ; the wind was continually shifting, the ice was being driven with violence against the ship's sides, and the work in which all were occupied was for life. Provisions, clothing, instruments, papers, and valuables of all kinds, were thrown over the sides with all expedition, and by those on the ice were hastily removed to a place of safety. ao energetically had the work been earned on, that about midnight those on the ship were prepared to join them on the ice. "While some were in the act of going over the ship's side, the wind suddenly veered round, the hawsers, which had been slack before, immediately became tight, and a few yards of ground ice, which could not be crossed over readily on foot, separated the two parties. In such circumstances what .was to be done? While those on board were considering as to what means they should adopt in order to join their comrades, one of the hawsers snapped, and the other pulled the anchor, to which it was fast, from its pla.ee. By the dislodgenieut of the anchor, a piece of ice, about an acre ii> cxten, was severed from the main body. On it were three men, and as the ship, now released, drifted past them, they implored aid. They inquired, in an indescribable,agony of despair, what they were to do? and the only reply which could bo made to them was, that they must do the best they eoukl. They had one of the boats, and they at once launched her, and when last observed, wore proceeding in the direction of those who were on the ice a short distance from them, and from whom they had been parted. In a few minutes the ship drifted away, and those on the ice were lost to view. Shortly after the Polaris broke loose she was stopped by a large berg, and the wind having died away, she remained fast. The condition of the ship was, however, etill such that it was desirable that she should be abandoned at the earliest possible opportunity. Accordingly, portions of the sails were taken down and converted into bags for the storage of coal. The desire was to reach the coast before the "ship gave way entirely, and the fuel was befng rapidly consumed to keep the pumps gcing. On the.morningof the 16th, at daylight, the ice along the floe was observed to be very \ f;hin, A fresh breeze springing up from the NJE, broke the ice. and. a crack hayft|

been made, the ship was pushed through it, and it became wider aud wider by the

action of the tide. At this time the Polaris was about four miles from the beach just above Littleton Island. Although the distance" was short, it was with great difficulty that it was accomplished. The ship , was driven against the ice again and again, and on every occasion, the distance from the shore was reduced. Fortune seemed to favor, the adventurers, and about, four o'clock in the afternoon, when soundings were taken, it was found that the ship was aground. It happened to be high water, and this was another propitious circumstance, as it enabled them to drive the ship much further up the beach. Now that the object contemplated had been realized, and that the ship would not move from the position she occupied, the rescued bethought themselves of the means which they should employ with the view of tiding over the winter. Accordingly the large internal beams of thfi ship were removed from their places, and all | stores available were deposited on the ice, { About the time the encampment was formed, several Esquimaux put in an appearance. Their services were exceedingly valuable, as, by means of the sledgesj they transported the pieces of wood and the stores which had been taken from the ship to the place where it was intended to construct a suitable habitation. The plan of the structure —which, as may be supposed, was of a very primitive character — was designed by Mr Chester. The framework was composed of large pieces of wood, which were firmly planted into the ground, planking being run all round. The roof was made of two heavy sails, and sleeping accommodation was provided by the bunks, which were taken out of the vessel. Adjoining the place which was reserved for sleeping, was a store-room, in which were stowed away provisions and articles which it was expected would come into frequent use. In these quarters a long and dreary winter had to bo passed. ! Notwithstanding the desolate and forlorn circumstances, in which the unfortunate crew were placed, there was no abandonment to despair or the relinquishment of hope. Everyone endeavored to amuse the other as best lie could, and although the prospect of release was exceedingly remote, not a word escaped from any one calculated to dim or destroy it. High hopes were entertained that in the spring, if nothing untoward happened, some way of escape' might be opened up. Daysi weeks, aud months passed over, and as there was no particular lack of provisions, health was maintained. Only slight appearances of scurvy manifested themselves, but these never assumed a serious character. Tin's was dec mainly, it was believed, to the enjoyment of a plentiful supply of walrus liver, which was provided by the Esquimaux. Another circumstance also contributed to the sustaining of the bodily powers of the men. Much of their clothing had been lost on the occasion of the precipitate breaking loose of the ship, and a good deal of it was well worn. In exchange for a few paltry trinkets, the Esquimaux furnished large quantities of fur, which were converted into clothing™ trousers, coats, boots, hats. &c. The appearance of the crew was rather droll dressed up in such habiliments ; but they' had nothing to dread from the public gaze.

The Means of Escape,

The long winter was now rapidly draw* ing to a close, ami on the whole it had been spent in a much less disagreable niamier than could have been imagined. At the end of it there was still a goodly stock oJ : dried potatoes, beef, fruit, and flour, and a few lons of coal remained. As spring approached the means to be employed in order to attempt to effect a passage southward were eagerly and anxiously discussed. Mr Chester, who, from tiie reports given, appears to have been the life and soul of the party, suggested that he saw no difficulty in having two boats built. A survey of the ship, which was still accessible, was made, and Mr Chester found that the inside lining of the cabin would be very suitable for the purpose. With the assistance of the carpenter no time was lost in commencing operations. A new difficulty, however, presented itself, It way found that when the wood had been stripped off it was quite perforated by nails. How these holes were to be closed up so that the boat, when finished, would be water-tight was the next question-to'be solved. ,Mr Chester would allow no difficulty—he did not believe in defeat; and when doubts were raised as to his being able successfully J.Q achieve the feat he had taken in hand he laughed, ot tlseni, and derided those by whom they were entertained. The building of the boats was begun when the weather was exceedingly cold, the temperature being several degrees below zero. Bo fearful occasionally was the weather that the steadiness and regularity with which the work was carried on under the superintendence of Mr Chester created astonishment among oil who saw it. Despite every digadyaiifage, not a day elapsed without some real progress being made, and in the beginning of June the boats were finished. Considering the pbstacles which had to be surmounted by those by whom they were, constructed, they were two perfect specimens of boatbuilding, andtheir, completion formed the subject of general congratulation. The

great anxiety now was to have them launched expeditiously, as the weather

was becoming line, and all anticipated that there was a long aud weary journey before them. It was resolved to leave the encampment on the 3d of June. Just before that date a gale of considerable violence prevailed ; but it had moderated greatly just before the voyage was commenced. The first day Soutag Bay was reached. There a rest was made, and the

next landing point was Hacluit Island. At lliia stage a very seven; gale was encountered, and it continued for two or three days, during which snow fell almost without inlermissiuu. The situation was singularly trying; all were wet through and uncomfortable, Yet so much of this kind of thing had been their lot in the past that they were not inclined to regard it much. The storm, however, interrupted their further progress for two or three days. The next point they resolved to reach was Northumberland Island. There, again, they met with fresh difficulties, arising chiefly from the continuous and heavy falls of snow ; but there was still reason for thankfulness, for a large flock of little auks were met with. Lots of them were shot, and their flesh was very palatable, and afforded a pleasing relief to the food upon which the men had previously been living. In this way the southward journey was protracted. Now and again the tiny boats were beset, and there was the constant apprehension of their being squeezed to pieces. They were, however, preserved. Nothing could be more tantalising than the maimer in which the efforts of the crew were frequently baffled. To-day a few miles would be traversed in the proper direction, and to-morrow they had to be gone over again. After much fatigue Cape Parry was gained, and a few miles below that, at Fitzclarence Rock, the boats were drawn up upon the icefoot. As was customary at the close of each day's journey a small fire was lighted. Each boat carried a bagful of pieces of rigging, which had been chopped up, and a can of oil, and with these materials in the bottom of an iron bucket s lire was kindled. By means of it hot tea was made, and this was the only warm food which the crew obtained. A goodly draught of the tea was found greatly to stimulate (lie men, and when they partook of their meal they usually retired to rest. At this stage of the journey the boats were again interrupted in their southward passage ; but the crew wore nothing daunted, and waited calmly until the weather moderated. Eventually, after many nps and downs, the boats sighted Cape York, and ultimately drew near to it. The ice got very strong round about Ihein, and the result was that they were beset. In order to get out they had to go to the northward and afterwards reached the land floe east of Cape York. They were then caught in the land ice, and lay jammed among it till the 2;Jrd of June, when they sighted a large vessel in the ofliug. The joy which this welcome event created in the breasts of the destitute cast-a-wajs is reported by somo of themselves to have been indescribable. Although the journey had up to the time the vessel was seen been particularly fortunate, there was no saying when it might terminate disastrously. The protection which, (he boats afforded was frail enough, and although the strongest hope animated all it in no way climiii'shed the gratification which so unexpected a deliverance evoked. Of course there was always the anticipation that some fishing vessel would be seen, but for many mouths these men had been exposed to a cold and depressing climate, and between the time when they left the Polaris and saw this ship they had never observed a sing-lo vessel. Still they were a long distance away from the object they so much desired to reach, and were uncertain as to whether they were recognized. All dubiety, however, was removed when it was seen that the ship hoisted a signal, and that soon after a number of men were observed on the ice making towards them. The meeting was of the most friendly nature. Mutual greetings were interchanged, and when the crew were told that they were welcome to conic i on board, they prepared with all alacrity to join the vessel. One of the boats was left behind, and tl)e oilier, which was tilled with liiggage, &c, was dragged along The friendly vessel was reported to be the Ravonseraig whaler, of Dundee, Captain Allan. Although the distance between the boats and the Ravensoraig was only about twelve miles, so rough was the road, it being strewn by hum. mocks of ice, that it occupied seven hours in accomplishment. Captain Allan received the ship-wrecked men in person, told fliem that they should have every assistance that it was in his power to render them, and that he hoped they would want no comfort which the ship could afford. These promises were fifV filjec] fo the lotfop. Subsequently the Ravenscraig fell in with the Arctic, and half the number of the Polaris' crewthere were fourteen in all—were transferred to the latter vessel. Some time' after the Ijavenseralg spoke the'lntrepid, and Captain Soutar willingly consented to take three of the men who. w.ero still with Captain Allan. When the .Arctic completed her fishing Captain Adams thought it would be a good thing if he ppuld before leaving the country meet with the Ravenscraig and Intrepid, and so

bring the whole:of the crew home with him. lie was successful in discovering the whereabouts of the Uavenscraig, and, shipping the four hands she had on board, proceeded horasward.

The treatment of the men on board the whalers is described by themselves as being particularly kind and handsome, All of them appear healthy and strong, and on looking at them one could scarcely imagine that they had been subjected to

privations such as those to which they must have been exposed. The untimely death of Captain Hail is lamented by all. His memory is spoken of with reverence, and all are of opinion that had he been spared ho would have been able to attain results of the highest importance.

Voyage of the Polaris. \ The narrative of the voyage of the Polaris, which we published yesterday> gathered from the survivors picked up on the ice floe, was necessarily incomplete. From the fuller accounts brought by the other portion of the crew, a better idea of what she did and what he might have accomplished can now be formed. The Polaris left New York on the 20th June, 1871, and she reached the Danish settlement • of Disco on the 3let July. Here ,unfortunately, some misunderstanding arose regarding the future conduct of the expedition. Capt. Hall asserted, his authority; and, w<J believe, through the intervention of tile commander of the U.S. war ship Congress, were so arranged as to allow of the vessel proceeding to carry out ihe purpose of th* voyage. The Polaris left Disco on the 17th August. Davis Straits and Baffin's Bay were found comparatively free of ice. The water was also very open in Smith's Sound and Kennedy Channel, in proof of which it may be mention th» c the Polaris steamed from Cape Shackleton to the highest latitudes reached in five days. Cape Shackleton h a lofty promontory, some 1,400 feet in height, and nearly perpendicular, situated in.latitude 73.50. As the Polaris penetrated as far north as lat. 82.16 the distance steamed during the five days was about six hundred miles. The point reached by Captain Hall was nearly one degree further north than the highest latitude reached by Dr Kane it -was presumed that the edge of the " open Palar Sea" had been reached by these explorers. This supposition has not, however, been borne oat by the Polaris' expedition. Kennedy Channel continues a considerable distance at least beyond the high latitude reached. Captain Hall named the continuation of thin Channel Robeson Strait. It was observed, however, that the land on the Greenland side trended towards the north-east. Grinnel Land on the other side of the Strait, according tq the observations made on board the Polaris, seemed to fall away to the westward. The continuation of the land, however, to the north must be greatly matter of conjecture. Latitude 82.16 was reached on the 30th August. At this point the northward progress of the vessel was impeded by loose ice. There were, howover, clear water lanes leading through the ice, and a clear water sky was observed ahead. In ordinary circumstances this state of matters would have been favorable for pushing further north. It must be remembered, however, that there are special difficulties in Artcic navigation, and prompt action must, as a rule, be taken in order to ensure safety. Captain Hall had a good deal of Arctic experience. His chief mate, Mr Chester, we understand, had also some knowledge of Arctic navigation. Mr Morton, of course, knew a great deal about the country. He has, if we mistake not, wintered five times in the Arctic regions. Mr Morton was born in Ireland, where he has still relatives, but he has long been settled in America. He was, as we have said, Dr Kane's right-hand man, and knows w*ll the risks and dangers of Arctic navigation. We are not aware whether any of the others had previously been in such high latitudes. The scientific corps, so far as we can learn, was well appointed. Of the thirty-nine on board, only eight were native - born Americans, the remainder, being composed of Germans, Danes, Norweigians. English, Irish, Scotch, and Esquimaux. This diversity of nationality might not tend to harmonious action, and possibly some of those on board went for the mere love of adventure rather than from any special desire to further the interests of geographical exploration. With open'lines of water running through the ice and a water sky ahead, men of the Parry, Ross, and M'Clintock stamp would probably have gone ahead. Captain Hall and his colleagues did not do so. Suitable winter quarters could not be found, and the vessel's head was consequently turned southward. She had not proceeded far before she was beset by ice, in which she drifted south to latitude 81.40 where, having got clear of the ico, she took up her winter quarters in a small indent on the coast named by Captain Hall Polaris Bay. In Winter Quarters—Death of Captain Hall. When the vessel was safely secured in Polaris Bay preparations were made for passing the winter. There were plenty of provisions and fuel on board, and the United States Government had carefully provided for the crew's amusement during the winter. There was a good library, and otherwise plenty of means for passing the long winter night as pleasantly as it could be done under the circumstances. There were, it may be here stated, two females on board-~one the wife of Hans Christian, an intelligent Esquimaux, who was with Dr Kane and Mr Morton in the Advance Expedition of 1853-1855. Hans Christian and the other Esquimaux were engaged to take charge of the dogs (of which there were a large number ou board, valuable animals, and well trained) and sledges. After the arrangements for passing the winter were completed Captain Hall went on a sledge journey northward, accompanied by Mr Chester and the two Esquimaux. He left on the 10th October, and was absent from the ship for ten days. The highest point reached during this journey was about latitude 82deg. In the course of the journey they fell in with a large number of musk oxen. These animals were previously unknown in Greenland, although plentiful in other parts of the Arctic regions. Some twenty or thirty of them were shot, and it was found that their flesh made excellent beef. Captain Hall returned to the ship apparently in excellent health and good spirits. Oh the evening of his arrival, after partaking of *ome coffee, he was attacked with siok|«e,accDrapaD.jed, Pogsjbly,

irregularity jrf his meals during the sledge journey may have disordered his stomach. He recovered from this attack sufficiently to leave his bed and'-move about the cabin, but ; he subsequently suffered a relapse, passed into a state of delirium, and died on the Bth of November, with all the symptoms of congestion of !the jbrain. After the death of Captain Hall the chief command of the expedition. devolved on Captain Buddington, the sailing master, Dr Brssel having charge of the scientific corps. Nothing further was done during the winter. The weather was occasionally very bright when the moon was shining, ami they could see for long distances, but no fresh sledge journeys'were undertaken, and the Esquimaux and their dogs enjoyed their pemican on, board in comparative idleness. InJune of 1872 two parties left in boats, and went northward. They were away for six weeks, but got no greati'-distance from th'e vessel. They abandoned the boats and returned to the ship over the land ice. It may interest bur lady readers to learn that one of the Esquimauxwomen gave birth to a baby in this high latitude, thus increasing the number of children on board to four. Departure from Winter Quarters-Beset with Ice Ashore. After refitting, the Polaris left her winter quarters on the 12th August. The ship was found to be in an 'unseaworthy condition, and it was resolved to steer homeward. Four days after leaving Polaris Bay the vessel was beset. She was in imminent danger for some time; but was ultimately made fast to a floe, with which she drifted slowly southward to latitude 78 (leg., or thereabouts, in the vicinity, apparently, of Cape Alexander. Every preparation was made to leave her. Provisions, clothes, &c, were placed on the ice, and the materials for a wooden hut. .While these preparations were in progress, on the 15th October, during a heavy gale and blinding snowstorm, the steamer broke adrift from the floe, leaving Captain Tyson and other eighteen indivi. duals, including the whole of the Esquimaux, on the ice., This party drifted southward a distance of 1,500 miles to the coast of Labrador. The position of the steamer was no less critical. It was found that there was a large hole in her stern, through which the water was finding its way rapidly. The pumps were frozen, and there was no steam. Many of those on board would have been glad to have been left on the ice, their prospects seemed so dismal. Hot water was procured, and by this means the pumps were got in working order, and the water reduced so as to allow of the furnaces being lighted, and steam got up. Under steam and wind the vessel sailed northward at the rate of ten to eleven knots an hour, and the day after quitting the floe she was run ashore at Littleton Island. It may be remembered that Captain Tyson stated that he observed the Polaris, some days after the separation, lying behind Northumberland Island. He must have made a mistake, or his eyes deceived hirn in some way Northumberland Island being at least a degree to the southward of that part of the coast where the Polaris was run ashore. The steamer had no boats, and the prospects, both for the winter and for future escape, were far from bright. Portions of the wreck were taken to make huts, and there was fortunately plenty of fuel and provisions. The Etah Esquimaux have a settlement about ten miles from Littleton Island, and they camo to the wreck and rendered the castaways a great deal of assistance. The winter was passed very quietly. It was Very cold, the thermometer sometimes sinking as low as 40 deg. Farenheit below zero. If they ventured abroad during a high wind it cut through them like a knife, but in calm weather it was endurable. Although it was so intensely cold, and many of the men were scantily provided with clothing, their chests having been placed on the ice, all passed through the winter clear of frost bite, and in the enjoyment of good health When the weather became warmer, thoughts of escape naturally came uppermost in the minds of all. The carpenter being disabled, Mr Chester, the chief mate» proceeded to construct boats out of the deck-houses and bulwarks. The material was not well fitted for the purpose, but Mr Chester succeeded in making very serviceable scows out of them. On the 3rd June they quitted Littleton Island in these rude boats, and on tee 23rd June they were picked up by the Pvavenscraig, under the circumstances described in Captain Allan's interesting report.