NOTES OF AN EXCURSIONIST.

Hawke's Bay Times, Volume 19, Issue 1216, 8 January 1872, Page 2

NOTES OF AN EXCURSIONIST.

| A New Year excursion to the City of the North, in a magnificent steamer like the Albion., afforded an opportunity of enjoyment such as seldom presents itself to the people of Napier. So thought a good many of the Napier population, as was shown by the long (though somewhat incomplete) list of passengers published on the occasion of the departure of that vessel from this port on Saturday week, 30th December. Among the upward passengers were his Honor J". D. Ormond, Esq., Major Green, and so many Napier townspeople that at times on the way one could scarce reali£e his absence from his regular surroundings. At 3.30 p.m. on Saturday 1 ; the 30th Decembei, the Albion, with a full complement of passengers, Jeft Ahuriri roadstead. The clay was tine, with a pleasant breeze, which served to temper the heat, and slightly ruffle the surface of the Bay. Very little of the coast was visible, a slight haze veiling it from our view. "The swiftness of the vessel, and the slight degree in which she was affected by the movement of the water, was the subject of general remark. About 6 p.m. a little steamer was observed, making for Napier, and she was quickly recognised as the s.s. Napier, from Poverty Bay. On approach ing, she signalled to the Albion, and both vessels were stopped for a short time. A boat put off from the JjTapiev, bringing three passengeis for the Albion, and these having been safely transferred, we resumed our course. As the Napier drifted past us, waiting for the return of the boat, numerous recognitions were made and signals exchanged between the passengers on the two steamers..

The breeze had by this time some what; increased, and was full in our faces, to the inconvenience of the saloon passengers'on deck, who found themselves in a disagreeable atmosphere of smoke and smuts. As we met v^it.li head winds during great part of the passage, we frequently suffered from the unavoidable annoyance, which drove us from the deck to the luxurious cushions of the saloon. About this time, too, the slight swaying and vibration of the vessel nad begun to tell upon some of the passengers, who found themselves compelled to pay the tribute exacted from most of those who go to sea. At 8 p.m., when most of the passengers " turned in," we were well outside of Portland Island.

On Sunday morning, at 4 o'clock, there was still a haze on the coast, but " Gable End " was dimly visible, far in the rear. After sunrise, the day became exceedingly warm and pleasant, and the passengers parsed most of their time on deck. At 6.30 a.m. we rounded the East Cape, passing into smoother water. Beyond the East Cape, for some miles, the coast present ed a different appearance from what we had hitherto passed. The sea neither laVhed lofty bluffs, nor washed shingle beaches. In the background were high hills, with almost level ground before them, covered with vegetation, apparently to lhe water's edge. The waves gently broke against banks far more resembling those of a river than the shore ot an ocean, and it was difficult to fancy, from the appearance of the coast, that it was ever beaten upon by the storms which must occasionally rage in this part. In a short time we began to lose sight of the coast, for we 'vere now passing the Bay of Plenty, and before very long all sign of land was lost to view.

About Ipm. the remarkable volcano, White Island, in the Bay of Plenty, about one-thir4 of the distance across, came in view. So far as could be discerned, it presented no sign of activity. Being at a great distance, and surrounded by haze, its peculiar, form could only be dimly made out with a glass. In the rear of the Island, slightly to

.the N.W., could bo seen the srrioke of a steamer, which gradually passed behind to the other side. The steamer was supposed to be leaving Tauranga harbor, and was set dovyn as the Star of the South, for Napier. At 1.45 p.m., neither coast nor island being then in sight, the vessel suddenly came to a halt, and steam was vigorously blown oif from both boilers. A delay of a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes ensued before the journey was resumed. The cause of the stoppage w as heated bearings. At 5.15 p.m. four islands, belonging to the " Mayor and Aldermen " gioup, became visible, but we passed them at a great distance. One of the islands \VBs very high and pointed, appearing, fioiii our point of view, almost needleshaped. Shortly after. Mercury and Cuvier Islands, which lie not far from the entrance of Hauraki Gulf, were seen. At 8 o'clock we had not passed between these islands, but knew we were not many hours' distant from Auckland. As it came on veiy dark and chilly, most of the passengers retired at this time.

Next morning, at half-past 2, the view which presented itself was well worth seeing. The vessel was making splendid progress through the tranquil water, which was brightly illuminated by the full moon. We were just abreast of that remarkable extinct volcano, Itangitoto. High in the centre rose the peak; lower down, on eaeh side, appeared the profile of the lips of the crater, giving the mountain the ap pearance of being triple-peaked. From the crater downwards on each side the island sloped to the sea, at first abruptly, but gradually more gently, until at each end it i-esembled a plain. In front of us, the peak appeared to rise almost directly from the sea, but this was merely an' appearance, for the island, which is about four miles in diameter, is nearly round, and presents much the same outline from whatever point it is viewed. Immediately before us was a bright light, showing the position of the "Beacon Rocks "; to our left was Hangitoto, and to our right a line of coast terminated by the "North Head." The North Head was soon rounded in a splendid sweep, and the harbor and city of Auckland lay before us. Seldom Lr.ye I beheld a scene more lovely. r T e subdued light of the moon fell upon water of a glassy smoothness, and the hills by which we were now surrounded were revealed, some in full distinctness, some shrouded by a delicate haze, yet all recognizable by those to whom they were familiar. As we drew near to the shipping, the scene presented new features of beauty. Vessels ranging in size from the lai-ge ship to the li* tie coasting cutter, lay at anchor in profound repose, reflected in the moonlit water, while the many lights of the citv, and the moonlight on its white buildings, gave variety to the view. Sounds of singing and dancing were faintly heard on board the English vessels near the wharf as we approached, but as we drew still uearer, the crews came on deck and gave us three hearty ! cheers, which were as heartily returned, i after which the "qomplimerits of the season" were passed between the vessels. At 3 am precisely v-q touched the wharf, having made the voyage from Napier in the short space of hours, including the two brief stoppages on the way. The end of the wharf was occupied by a party of " larrikins," who with loud yells exclaimed, '* We wish you a happy New Year." Evidences of the work of these juveniles were everywhere visible when we landed, the legend "1872," in rude symbols, being chalked in endless repetition on every shop and warehouse in the lower part of the town. A vacant berth beins visible on the other side of the wharf, the vessel backed off, and in another half-hour was moored in the position whi"h she retained during her stay. Aji 5 a.m. I set foot for the first time in Auckland city, and found an hour pass quickly in a survey of one or two of the principal streets. I was somewhat disappointed in Queen-street. Fine as many of the buildings are, many of +heni have an unmistakeably dirty and seedy Iqolf, reminding one of the "warm touches" from the sweep's brush, with which Pat relieved the painful monotony of his whitewashed walls. Sometimes, too, beside a splen-

did stone building, or between two of them, we see an ancient, dirty, shaky wooden structure, which gives the whole row an incongruous appearance. Among the finest buildings in Queen-street are the Waitemata Hotel, the iNew Zealand insurance Company's building (which is adorned with a fine clock tower), and the Banks of New Zealand and Australia. The finest buildings I saw in other paits of the city were the new Post Office and the Supreme Court. About the most disagreeable feature of the city 1 fouud 10 be the bad smells. Jn some streets they are to be met with at almost every corner, and in Queenstreet itself, the very centre of business, they continually force themselves on the notice of the passer-by.

One striking, feature of Auckland is the large number of places of worship. From any elevated point ofview their spires may be seen in all directions. One very modest building at a street corner, bore the inscription, " Christians' Meeting-house," the worshippers probably being above sectarian distinctions. At the summit of Pittstreet is a very large and imposing structure, built of red brick, with narrow gothjc windows and massive buttresses. I was a little surprised to read that it was a Wesleyan Church—it seemed as though the Auckland Methodists had departed from primitive simplicity. Any minute or even comprehensive view of the city and its chief points to a stranger was prevented by the short period of the steamer's stay in Auckland. After about an hoUi's stroll I returned to the ship. From the large, number of hotels I had seen, I imagined that it would be the simplest thing possible to find accommodation, yet some of my fellow-passengers found it a matter of no small difficulty—it was holiday-time, and the houses were all full. I was fortunate in finding a comfortable Tern perance Hotel in Hobson street, which though at the time full like the test, was not crowded ; and here I remained during my stay in Auckland.

Sports, amusements, and excursions of every kind were the order of the clay. The greatest attraction, was perhaps in the extensive barracks, where kilted Caledonians v ere indulging in their annual games, to the sound of the bag pipes. Crowds wer-e gathered about the gates, and I was afterwards informed that about 5,000 spectators were within the barrack enclosure \ Passing the gloomy walls, I went on to the Public Domain—a place of which the Auckianders are justly proud. On the way I passed the remains of the. late Music Hall, of which only the eight once beautiful columns of the. portico, blackened and disfigured byfire, remained standing. The Domain is a very extensive reserve, planted vvitK beautiful trees, and admirably laid out. At the highest part the children belonging to the Sunday School Union, nurnbering 1,150, were enjoying their annual festival. The scene was animated" in the and when the time for refreshment came round, the children were seated in large circles on the grass, under the shade of the trees, and the amount of provision produced and consumed was prodigious. A very serious accident occurred during the afternoon at one of the swings, which must have greatly marred the day's pleasure. This large gathering was far from representing the whole of the Auckland Sunday Scholars, for the Methodist children, to the number of 750, were entertained elsewhere on the same day ; and the children of the Congregational schools—-another multitude—were regaled at the North Shore on the 2nd of January.

Monday and Tuesday were both, obset ved as clo.se holidays, snd cm Wednesday, to the dismay of the excursionists, who had been led to expect a four days' stay, the steamer, was announced to leave at 3 p.m. on that day. A day at the Thames had been in the programme of a good many, who, were, obliged to abandon the project. In fact, all who hacl carefully laid out their plans found them deranged by this unexpectedly early departure. Such little business as they had to do was flurried through in the few hours of Wednesday morning, and at the advertised time they went on board. At 130 p.m., the vessel left the wharf,

The Auckland agents were very freely .criticized by the passengers, especially as the Nebraska, with the European mails via California, was known to be overdue. The day of departure was dull, with an occasional drizzle, and compared very unfavorably with the weather .during the upward trip. After leaving Auckland harbor we found the weather rather rough, and off the Bay of Plenty most ol the passengers kept their berths. On Thursday the sea was very rongh during great part of the morning, but .upon nearing the coast we found it more moderate. In the evening we had a good view of “ Gable End ” and Poverty Bay. Next day, at. 4 a.in., the early risers were in full view of Almriri Bluff and Napier town. Three quarters of-an-liour later, the vessel anchored, and in little more than another half hour the passengers were landed, and thus ended a very pleasant excursion. The return passage was not made in so short a time as the upward trip, occupying just a few minutes over 36 hours. The passengers were eloquent in their praises of the Albion, which possesses every convenience which ingenuity has devised for the comfort and convenience of her passengers. We wei’e fortunate, too in our attendants, whose kind and obliging disposition earned them the respect of ail on board. No pains or trouble were spared by them to contribute to the comfort of the passengers, and specially to the relief of those who were sick. By their diligence and attention they did much to make the trip what it was in every sense of the word—a successful pleasure .excursion.