THE CHATHAM ISLANDS.

Hawke's Bay Times, Volume 6, Issue 293, 31 July 1865, Page 1

THE CHATHAM ISLANDS.

(From the General Government Gazette, July 11th.) Colonial Secretary’s Office, Wellington, Ist July, 1865. The following remarks on the Chatham Islands by Captain Hope, of H.M.S. “Brisk,” are published for general information : On making the Great Chatham Island from the westward. Mount Maunganui is very conspicuous, being a high rugged hill, with a broken irregular outline, appearing to form the north extreme of land ; but on approaching nearer, Point Patterson is discovered, — a long low point, off which there are dangerous reefs extending a mile or more. Mount Dieffenbach is seen to the right of Maunganui,—a sharp pointed pyramidical hill, said to be the highest on the islands, but Maunganui looks" higher. There are other peaks resembling Dieffenbach, but lower.

The “Brisk” agproached Point Allison on an east course, and then passed through Cuba Channel into Petre Bay:—The coast from Point Allison to Point Somes appears fringed with rocks, and should not bo approached nearer than a mile. The seabreaking on the west reef may be seen eight or ten miles off from the masthead; and on dosing nearer, patches of the reef are seen above water. The reef seems to be correctly placed on the chart, but appears to extend somewhat farther in a north-west direction from the dry part than is there laid down. There is, however, a channel of three miles at least, between the reef and Point Somes, through which, steaming at half-speed, we could get no bottom at ten fathoms, and there were no indications of any other dangers. The oniy anchorages to be recommended in Petre Baj are Wangaroa (Port Hutt), and Port Waitangi; and other bays on the north side being exposed to south and south-west winds. Wangaroa is the only anchorage sheltered from all winds, but it is very confined, and with strong west or south-west winds there is a heavy sea at the entrance ; therefore a vessel should anchor as far in as possible. The entrance to Wangaroa may be easily recognized by the sketch on the chart. With the nib or hummock on Mount Iwa Kawa open to the eastward of Mount Maunganui, (as shewn in the sketch) the harbour is open, and the white sandy beach at its head will be seen. There are likewise sandy beaches at the head of two bays to the eastward of Wangaroa, care therefore should be taken not to mistake between them. The sea breaking on the rocks at either side of the entrance to Wangaroa marks the dangers, and it is only necessary to keep midway between, and steer straight in on a north-west by west course (compass). A patch of floating kelp stretches partly across the entrance from the Nopper reef but there is deep water where it lies, and the “ Brisk” passed through it. The reef off Point Gordon must be avoided, but the outer edge of the kelp there marks the deep water. The Brisk anchored inside the line from Point Gordon to Point Evans, in five fathoms, coarse sand and shells, with the centre of the little cove behind Point Evans bearing northeast. A large vessel should moor, if intending to stay any time, as there is scarcely any room at single anchor to swing all round, unless the anchor were dropped exactly in the centre of the harbor. There is a stream of excellent water at the northwest corner of the harbor, but no firewood or supplies of any kind are to be had here, the country for miles round being bleak open moorland, intersected by small lakes and swamp . The only habitations here at the time of the visit of H.M.S. Brisk, were two native huts ou the west side at Howard Bay. The anchorage at Port Waitangi is not a safe one for large vessels during westerly gules. Vessels drawing not more than twelve or thirteen feet, may ride out south-west gales by anchoring close in with Point Hansom, bearing south-west or south-west by west; they will then be in a measure sheltered from the heavy sea, hut will experience a roiling swell that will try their cables. With a gale from the north-west this is decidedly a dangerous anchorage. H.M.S.

Brisk experienced a heavy south-west gale while at anchor there in May, 1865, ■with Clatchie point bearing west-south-west in six fathoms, fine black sand. The gale lasted forty eight hours, one cable parted, and the ship was in a very critical position, a high breaking sea running, and strong offset from the shore keeping the ship at times broadside to the wind and sea. An American whaler, laying further in, also parted a cable, and tiie crewr left her expecting her to be wrecked, but she rode it out safely; as did also a schooner lay close under Point Hansom. A shoal, having five fathoms on it, is said to lie a mile-and-a-half to the northward of the anchorage, but the’ exact spot is uncertain. It is however known to the natives, who go there to fish.

Port Waitangi is the principal place in the Chatham Island, the Resident Magistrate lives here, as also several other Europeans Fresh meat, poultry, and vegetables may be had here in abundance and very cheap; the potatoes, for which the islands are celebrated, are very fine; and at times a large quantity is exported to New Zealand and Australia. The land in this neighborhood is very good ; wheat is cultivated and answers well, and all kinds of English fruits and vegetables come to perfection. The lakes abound with wild ducks, and there are also curlew, plover, and pigeons, with abundance of wild pigs all over the island.

On steaming along the southern shore of Petre Bay, nothing was seen of the Heaphy shoal, and I was told it had no existence. There was a heavy swell running, but there was no appearance of a brea. anywhere off this shore, except upon the Jenny reef, which appears to be rather less in extent than the chart shews.

The coast from Point Durham to Point Eveque is high and bold, apparently clear of dangers. Point Eveque has close behind it a remarkable bill, with a cleft rock on the top exactly like bishop’s mitre, from whence its name is given,

The Sentry reef appears to be correctly placed, but it is smaller in extent than is laid down in the chart. It is entirely under water, but the sea breaks violently upon it. The Brisk passed about a mile-and-a-half to the northward of it, There is said to be a rock some little distance form the shore, two or three miles to the westward of Cape Fournier, but it is out of the ordinary track of vessels passing througc Pitt Straits, and we saw nothing of it. I was assured by residents, that with the exception of this rock and Sentry reef, Pitt Straits are entirely free from dangers; the rocks laying off the west and south-west sides of Pitt Island being so high and steep as to e quite undeserving that name. Pitt Island and its surrounding islets and rocks are most incorrectly laid down on the chart; in fact, with the exception of Sentry reef, the entire chart of Capes Eveque and Fournier is erroneous. The north end of Pitt Island is placed five miles too much to the northward, and its shape and the outline of its shores are altogether different. The north end of this island is formed by a bay about a mile-and-a-half in width, and half-a-mile in depth, wher there is good anchorage with all southerly winds. From the centre of this bay, Pciut Eveque bore by compass north 81 ° west, and Cape Fournie north 33 ° west; and assuming that these two capes are correctly laid down on the ehart, this point in the bay would be in latitude 44° 13’ south, longitude 176° 29’ west. This latitude is at all events nearly correct, as it agrees with our observations at noon. Mr Hunt, an Englishman who has resided twenty-five years on the island, lives in this bay ; he farms a great portion of the island, and gains his livelihood by supplying whalers with fresh provisions of ail sorts. He also acts as pilot to them, and it is chiefly from him that I derived whatever information that did not come under my own notice. On the east side of Pitt Island there Is an anchorage much frequented by whalers, where vessels may ride well sheltered from westerly gales; and on the west side there is good anchorage with northerly and easterly winds, in a bay behind a very high and precipitous island, called by the residents “ the Castle.” This island, which is probably that named ui the chart " the Fort/' occupies

more nearly the position of “ the Outports,” as there laid down; this latter, a very remarkable sharp-pointed serrated rock, is further to the south-west | and the extreme rock of this group, called the “ Sail rock ” from its extraordinary resemblance to a boat with a gigantic lug-sail, lies considerably to the south-west of its position on the chart. This group of rocks is very remarkable; the ■“ Castle” •is flat-topped with perpendicular precipitous sides 300 or 400 feet high. We were too far off to. judge of the position of the rocks off the south end of the island. As we did not anchor, being pressed for time, I was unable to fix the position of the north end of Pitt Island with accuracy, but it is certainly live miles south of its position on the chart. On leaving the north end of the island, we steered north-north-east, which took us about four or five miles to the northward of Beetier rock, a flat-topped islet of about 150 feet high. It is laid down some six miles too far to the north west of. its proper position. as it lies on the parallel of 44 ° south, and has thence obtained the local name of , “ the Forty fours.” Round Island is placed alrut four miles too far to the north-west. The existence of the three rocks laid down in latitude 44 ° 20' south, longitude 176 ° 30' west, is very doubtful; and the Star Quay reef is said to occupy quite a different position. Abundance of fresh meat, potatoes, and vegetables may be obtained at Pitt Island, as also poultry, milk, and butter. The island is thickly wooded; the soil, very fertile; and, as at the great island, all kinds of English fruits, &c , grow and thrive. Wl eat is also cultivated, but uot in quantity sufficient fur exportation. H-M.S. Brisk, Auckland, 31st May, 1865.