Classical Lines For Slim People

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Volume 81, Issue 52, 24 November 1937, Page 14

Classical Lines For Slim People

Fashion Notes From Europe

(From our London Correspondent.) After seeing the array of new fashions from the Paris and London designers' salons, I came to the conclusion that. once again, women can more or less wear what they like and he "in the swim." There is some variety in "line." ■ One designer has gone all classical this season. He likes the slightly dipped hack •iihouette, after the manner of Gfeek heroines. For an evening gown he drapes hia material to the figure, and hinds it on with hands of gold and silVer. In the daytime the super-slender, straight silhouette is idsistent in the collection, and the waist-line appears to he raised almost to the hust. Actually, it is in its normal place, hut a clever draped helt swathes the figure from just ahove the hips to just below the bust and creates the desired effect. 33ie long line persisfs in coats and skirts, the hraided tiimmings mentioned last week helping in the suggestion of slim height. Even pockets are vertical instead of horizontal or diagonal, and" they are emphasised with braid or closely set rows of tiny buttons. Hair also must come into the picture, and he hound at night with silver or gold, while the idea of waxing the waves and curls to make them "sit pretty" on the head is being taken up in Paris and, tentatively, hy some of the bright spirits of London. Peasant Influence. In another house there is a suggestion of peasant costumes in various parts of Eurolie. Everyone who saw it approved th# delicious little dress of soft black woollen material, the bodice tight and laced in front over a white chiffon blouse, the three-quarter length sleeves also laced over whita chiffon undersleeves whlch ended in puffs at the wrists, and the skirt simply gathered and left to flow out from the waist. There were some touches of embroidery on the hlouse and sleeves, and the complementary wrap was a half-length cape gathered at the neck and tied under the chin with ribbons. "Red Riding-hood," I thought — but the hood was missing! Little Dutch caps are worn with picturesque dresses by mannequins chosen to show off some of the evening models. They are made of net or tulle, sewn with sequins or erabroidered with metal threads, the stiffened "wings' 'at the sides making charming frames for youns faces. A La Victoria. To the regal touch now. The Victorian era is recalled hy models shown In yet another salon, where there are shawllike tops to day dresses, fichus, ancfc herthes in profusiqm The draperies are very dainty, and in the evening the "off the shoulder" corsage line is kindly to the flawless skin. Ruffled skirts are shown here, and ruffles on the bodices. One model that made an immediate appeal was in blush rosc pink chiffon, the bodice moulded to the figure from the top of the corsage to the hip line, and the natural waist marked by a swathe of the chiffon and a cluster of deeper pink roses. The draped berthe was edged with a ruffle of chiffon in the deeper tone of the flowers, which. were used again as a finish in th* centre front. - . On the fnll skirt gathered to th#

bodice, - were four • deeper pink chiffon ruffles at equal distances apart, the last one 'at* the hem which just missed the floor. „ Perhaps black best shows off the Victorian influence so far as the older woman is concerned, though numbers of the smart set who have reached the forties still choose whife and the offwhite shades, and look very well in them. Rather ktiff silks are used for some of the gowns, but models for ypung people are made, variously, of : cotton or silk muslin, chiffon, net, and velvet. The velvet ones, in pastel tones, are delicious. • Millinery Modes. Some of the new hats are decidedly queer! There are bonnets rather like those worn by probationer nurses,' and others resembling hospital sisters' headdresses. Models like irwerted sugar bags vie with those that look like crazycoal scuttles with the "pitching" parts turned down over the eyes. The Mexican influence "is sefen in a chapeau with a slightly conical crown and a fairly broad brim turned up all round. This is a gay, reckless looking model, to be adopted with caution by anyone not quite

Since dogs have become a fashion lead, the accompanying sketch was done to illustrate the correct clothes to be worn when walking the varicus types of canine. First of the series is tlie liandscme collie, which demands plaids. The bull-terrier's mistress looks lier best in a beige camel cloth swagger coat and felt hat. With the Abcrdeen terrier, a Mue-grey tweed sports sult its best, while th# Dalmatifm

certain of the a'bility to dress up to it. There are veils of all kinds and all lengths, some almost covering the face, all dropping over the eyes, and many floating down the back to the waist. Ribbons flutter at the back, too, and one modiste decided on a pigtail effect with plaited strands tied at the ends like a schoolgirl's coiffure in bygone days. Berets are back— not that they have ever entirely disappeared— and some aregood to look upon, though some are not. The exaggerated ones, stiffened, pulled very much forward, and rising on one side to an unusual height, are difficult to wear and not altogether attractive to see. The modified version ' is 'better, especially in black with a.twist of gold or silver cord sewn round the edge and worked into a bow at one side. Summing Up. So far as fashion has gone this season, it may, perhaps, be summed up by one or two impressions received. Women with willowy figures, will no doubt, adopt the classic line, long and slender, with no "fussiness." They will probably follow the Greek. inspiratiqn with evening gowns, and be severely simple in their day clothes. . Those to whom the cldssic does not appeal have an alternative in the full frocks, with swathed bodices and gathered skirts, and as much ruching and frilling as they like.

suggests spots. Nothing, not even sables, is too good for the aristocratic borzoi. The shiny silky cocker spaniel should be matchcd with a smart suit of black velvet with silver fox furs. These ideas of dressing for one's dog were inspired by a smart fashion parade, known as "The Dog on Parade," which was recently held in Park Avenue, New Vork