PRUNING GRAPE VINES

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Issue 177, 13 August 1937, Page 13

PRUNING GRAPE VINES

All grape vines, and especially those that are to be forced for early crops, need to be wintcr-pruned as soon after the leaves have fallen ofl as possible.. If the pruning is long delay ed the wounds made by cutting-back of the growths will not have healed over by the timo the sap commences to rise again, "bleeding" — which moana the loss of sap — will ensue, growtjr will bo regarded and the rods weakened. The usual method of trainiug established vines is to restrict them to single rods, all side-shqpts being cut back annually and the* leading shoot of each rod slightly shortened. Another system of training is sometimes praetised, however — the "extension" system. This permits of several main steras being formed, these being trained evenly over the roof-trellis and replaced with fresh growths as occasion .demands. Although this latter is probably the most natnral method, it is not always convenient when space is limited. and the single-rod method of growing is usually the befter. Whichever method be adopted, fche main rods of established vines should be pruned as follows: — Cut back every side of lateral shoot, made the previous Bummer, to two plump basal buds and shorten the leading young shoots' of each ro.d to 18in. or slightly more or less, according to the space available at the top of the house. Care should be taken to make a clean cut — using a very sharp knife, for the wood is tough — close to, and eloping slightly away from a plump bud. It simplifies the pruning operation if the rods are loo'sened from the wire trellis and allowed to hang low so that the pruner can work with ease from the ground, the rods being. refastened to the wires when pruning and the sub' sequent cleaning is completed.