FARM HORSES

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Issue 151, 14 July 1937, Page 13

FARM HORSES

Methods oi Breaking-In Young Stock PATIENCE ESSENTIAL With the advent of. motor cars, the rising generation is often remarkably ignorant of the breakij/g, traitting, and bandling of horses. It is doubtful if the place the horse has so honestly filled on. the farm in the past will ever bo taken entirely by mechanical power. The farm team of horses, by reason of the fact that its units can be simultaneously used separately for many types of work, has advantages which are impossible with the troctor. In any case, even where tractors are used in prefarence to regular plough teams, it will always be found necessary to keep one or more horses of the draught type to do casual haulage. lf this assumption is correct, it should still be an important part of the training of every farm hand and wouldbe farmer, to teach him not only how to harness, groom, feed and work the weli-broken farm horses or team, but how to handle, break to work, and train young draught horses. The usual course pursued to-day is to send any young horse which may have been bred on the farm to a professional horsebreaker who, often enougb, returns a broken-spirited, sullen brute, ready to kick, bolt or jib when opporbunity offers, and compact of every vice which. a horse can acquire. There are exceptions, of conrse, but even the best men who "break" horses for a fee have less interest in the outcome than the man who is going to work them day after day on the farm. When all is said and done, there hl not mucb in horsebreaking beyond patience, kindness, common sense and a knowledge of the work the horse will be called on to do. Most men, when they take the education of horses in hand, start with the assumption that all animals at birth p ossess hereditary vice, and that this vice must be thrashed out of theim before they will become docile and dependable. No greater mistake can be made. The youngsters, when ready to handle, are certainly usually full of life and spirit, but it is only fear of the unknown that induces them to use their heels or teeth in defenoe of their liberty. No animal, unless it be a dog, is more sensitive to the emotions of its trainer and master than is the horse, and for this reason it is essential for the man who proposes to break-in his own animal to take the greatest care that under no circumstances does he lose his temper, become flurried or frightened, or act hastily. Confidence and patience are the mental attributes necessary. Yarding and Handling. lf the young horse has never been handled or taught to lead, the first business is to get him into a strong yard from which he cannot escape by jumping, nor damage himself on wire. A cattle yard, such as can be found on most farms and stations, is ideal. If a yard is not available and the horse is unapproachable in the open paddock, he may have to be roped and thrown to get him haltered, but this should be avoided if at all possible. A quiet old horse is the best decoy with which to yard the youngster, and the less fusa and noise employed in getting them into the yard the better. Once they are in, .the old horse should be removed, and the trainer, with a light stick about six or -seven feet long, should commence his job. Some breakers tlse a stockwhip in place of the stick, but the latter serves every pUrpose, at least during the first day. First of all walk quietly about the yard until the horse gets Used to your being there. Stop any rushes past you which the youngster may^ attempt by holding out the stick, or, if necessary^ rapping him on the nose with it. When he has quietened down, in the course of half an hour or so, approach his head confidently, but quietly, holding out your stick towards him. Talk to him all the time, and on no account take your eyes off his, for this is a great factor in inspiring confidence in the animal. If at this stage the horse breaks away before you can rub him with the stick, give him a light rap over the nose aa he makes the break, and start your approaches over again. If he should turn his heels,. however. give him a

.sharp rap over the rump and use every endeavour to have him always facing you. Gsttlng the Helter on, Once you have got your stdck on the horse, rub him with it down the neck and shoulder; *11 the while approachiug his head untjpl you are standing close beside him. On no account litt your left hand up until you are close enough to pafc and rub the horse. It may be necessary to repeat this approach several times before the horse has gained. enoughi confidence in you to allow yon to rub his head beliind the eafs, and from there work the left hand down until you have it restIng on his nose just above his nostrils. Just beii>re this stage ia reached the stick should have been quietly dropped, and the right hand be employed securing the end of the 12-foot light rope previously tucked under your belt. If the handling so far has been good, the horse will now allow you, while still keeping your left hand on his nose where it can ha closed firmly if he makes an attempt to get away, to pass a douhle thickness of rope over his neck, round the stalk, and slip the loop over his nose. This will serve as a satisfactory temporary halter. From now on spend the rest of the first day's training in rubbing the horse all over with a body brush, being care* ful to make no abrupt movements ; also try pioking up the horse' s front feet, though it is doubtful if he will allow this the first day. Leave a head stall on him, and feed him well when the day's handling has finished, and whon you approach him next morning you will find he has lost most o£ his fear of your handling. Teaohing the Lead. The business for the second day is to teach the horse ibo lead. If he does not follow you easily and naturally with the halter only, pass your long light rope through the bit-ring on the head stall round under his tail, and bacg through the bit-ring on the other siae. Counect fhe ropes over his back with a loose ioop of cord to prevent them dangling down his sides, or better still, pass them through the ring of a surcingle if you have one. A slight pull on the rope — or on one end of it if he is stubborn — will make him follow you anywhere on a slack rein in a vea-y little time, and at the same time get him used to the feel of a crupper. When he is thoroughly easy to lead put a heavy bit in his mouth, and tie this back lightly and evenly to the rope which passes round under his tail. Do not tie him back too hard; jus.t enough to make sure that the pull on each side oi the bit is even. While he is getting used to the bit, grooming and foot lifting may be continued. When the horse is thoroughly used to, the restraining influence of the bit, take him out into a flat paddock and run him round you for an hour or so, first with the rope on one side of the bit and then on the other. This is the first occasion in his training when a whip may be necessary to make him trot round and round, but it must be used very lightly. Driving round for an hour or two with both redns, collar and harnes, saddle and breeching if possible on also, is the next proceeding, and when the youngster is quite happy in this environment and answersi well to tha reins, supplemented by the usual words of command, it is permissible to hitch his traces — leather preferred — to a light swingle-tree which is securely fastened to a light log. An hour or two in this will teach him the feel of the collai and harness, and give him the idea of pulhng. He can then be transferred to a light sledge, which, as he progresses, can he loaded, and so on to his ultimate place in the plough team or dray.