A Fashion Foreword

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Issue 127, 15 June 1937, Page 14

A Fashion Foreword

Our Lofcdon Correspondent)

The Coronation Influence

(From

'])i[EW fashion lines are -taking sbape and several ideas are already available to point the way to women consideijing their new wardrobes. ' The rather charming "swing" sMrt which was popular last season has given place to some extent to one which is straighter and tighter. Not hobble,' by any means, but very , smart because it is short. Thirteen to 14in. from the ground is the correct leng$h, where suit skirts are concerned. The tailored walking dress may be slightly longer. Even cocktail and cinema party frocks are on the short side and, as a matter of fact, the neat suit is the better choice for these occasions, With the shorter, straighter skirt goes the short, fitted jacket which is frequently scarcely hip length. It, is plainly tailored, meticulously fitted, often having slit pockets or pocket flaps, and it may be single or donble breasted, the opening filled in with a coloured scarf — which, incidentally, is more in the picture than ever. Two-colour suits will be shown.By the designers very soon, the jackets in patterned material, the skir,t in plain. Most attractive schemes have been worked out. Another idea is to have skirt and jacket alike and to introduce the second colour in flat lapels on the latter. Black and dark blue lapels are tttrned back, very smartly, with amber gold, Ascot orange, pennant green or one of the other new tints appearing in the season 'g colour ehart. Blouses are important and designers point out that they can make or mar the more "dressy" costumes which have not the severe scarves filling in the jacket opening at the throat. Exquisite things in the finest muslin, lawn, chiffon, crepe and satin are shown, each one made especially for the suit it accompanies. Sometimes there is a hint of the Edwardian era in the lace edgings, tucks and pleats that adorn lawn models. They are delightful, but not very practical on account of the time and trouble needed in laundering them perfectly. How;ever, one or two. would not, perhap's, be an ; extravagance to wear with a silk or satin suit. The Line Changes. Evening gowns illustrate the vogue for the higher waist-line, shirring and draping at the bust, and, in some cases, the skirts of Directoire inspiration. It is a-gracious and graceful silhouette for the woman who is slender enough to carry it off. The Directoire skirt is fairly tigh't, but slit at one side, or else cut all round the hem to suggest flower petals. When the slit is at the side it reveals a fluffy tulle petticoat in a contrasting colour. Here comes the opportunity to try out colour effects with black. The bodice, besides being high-waisted, , may reach almost to the throat in front- and dip deeply at the back. In any case the bust line is defined — in the classic gown by means of seams and darts. The more "dressy" model has shirring which draws the material across the front to the sides in small, graceful folds. Tailored Notes. Another "best seller" will pro.bably be the tailored evening dress— or rather semi-evening " dress— which is likely to take the lead for informal occasions from tea-time until mid night. It looks well in dull-surfaced satin : which lends itself admirably to the severitv .of the style demanding, as it does, the fitted bodice, button fastening from throat to hem Jong sleeves finished with neat cuffs. The om touch of exuberanee, as it were, comes witi the huge cluster of vivid flowers posed. at. thwaist, may be, on the shoulder, or at • thi throat. Some day frocks also are cut on tailored line? although they^ have quite short sleeves A new idea for their adornment is wool in a oontrasting colour couched down with matching thread. A yoke on the bodice and a flounce ' on the skirt may be suggested in this way, and when the dress is in one of the rich dark shades, sponsored by the designers by way of relief from ^ the brighter ones, wonderfiil effects can be achieved by using wool in a vivid tinf. Linens aud Laces. Linens of all kinds are in the fashion programme. One looks like alpaca, and is good for simple suits and walking dresses. Linen tweed again takes its place in dress schemes. and embroidered old bleach is as popular as it 'deserves to be. Stripes and checks and conventional patterns are available ; so are linens embroidered with heraldic, floral and foliage designs. Lace remains for Coronation season, in cotton, wool and silk. One designer has used it for a tailor-made suit for a -gala occasion, pos ing it over a firm foundation and so cutting and stitching the two that much of the fragility, but none of the attraction, of the dentelle is camouflaged. Some lace is dull of surface, some cire ; there are fine silken threads traced in patterns on net backgrounds; heavier cottons on heavier nets looking rather like Jacobean embroidery; silver lace, gold lace — all kinds of lace, in fact, used .for all kinds of things, from blouses to costumes. Head Lines. . ^ Hats are steediJy becoming lower. By tne time the Coronation takes place they will probably be quite flat and, in most cases, small for 5 the time being at any rate, beeause it had been i pointed out that no woman in London for thc celebrations who has respect for her fellov creatures will wear anything approaching a cart-wheel brim to spoil other people 's viev of the procession. Later, we shall see the graceful hat back again, with floral trimmings Now we have flowered toques, .turbans, berets, still a few pill-boxes — and always veils. But the veil does not neeessarily screen the eyes. Often it is draped over the crown of the hat and left to flutter down the back, rather in the Victorian manner. A charming fashion, this, the veil giving a becoming background for the faee, and softening the rather bleak appearance of the back of the neck when the hair is short . and the hat just porches %on the crownA