Coronation Dominates English Fashion

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Issue 104, 19 May 1937, Page 14

Coronation Dominates English Fashion

TN New Zealand the grey days of winter * are upon us, and this year's mode is demonstrated in the illustrations on this page. The grey days of New Zealand, however, are the gay days of England, where the fashion world is dominated by the Coronation influence. The great event is now over, but its influence on fashion remains, and will make a season of unparalleled gaiety and smartness. Coronation season dress shows have been so numerous that it is a little . difficult to sort out the various impressions received. Every designer has something new and original to offer, and, as most of them display wearable clothes, bearing the hall-mark of good taste, which will carry women right through the season, it may be well to deal with one at a time. Victor Stiebel, who is atnong the foremost of our British designers, has a most interesting collection, calculated to appeal to women of all ages, although there is a distinct atmosphere of youth in most of his models. Charming, and very "young," frocks are made with straight, short skirts, neat bodices, small sleeves,

and always something "different," in the form of neck treatment, interesting belt, or hem finish. For example, there is an adorable black frock, with prim white collar and cuffs and, at the hem of the skirt, a narrow band of the white material. And on a dark blue frock the designer poses an inconsequent little jacket of red, white and blue printed crepe, and finishes the hem of the skirt with a band of the printed material. Lace Suits. One of the most arresting notes in the collection is the series of severely and classically tailored lace suits, the lace posed over a foundation in a different colour — dark blue over red, for instance, henna-red over slate blue, and so on. They are charming, these lace suits, with slick, short skirts, and the neatest of jackets which have short sleeves or long according to individual preference — the short ones, though, look younger and more in keeping with the lace movement. Stiebel shows, also, more of the classic

tailored suits in printed crepes which made him famous a season or two ago. All the crepes are exquisitely woven and some have been designed especially for the house— black ground with small floral patterns, or baskets of flowers, lighted cigarettes, chessmen, tulip beds, gay gentians, and anemones. Previously there had.been a quantity of bird, ani-. mai and human figures; now there are more floral notes, presumably to satisfy the prevailing desire to go gay for. the Coronation. Colour Notes. In the evening, for ordinary occasions, women are to be as colourful in dress as they like. Strange combinations of shades are shown in the collection, but iso skilfully blended that in no case is there any suggestion of garishness. Clusters of brilliant flowers swirl over white backgrounds, and bands of printed crepes are let into white and off-white gowns. The silhouette for evening shows the Empire line, darts accentuating the bust and giving a 'slim moulded effect beneath. Skirts' are streamline and just floor length, without trains. Lovely corselet belts, jn gay contrasting "colours, are cleverly fitted well above the waist to eniphasise the Empire line. Some'plainly tailored informal evening models in silks and fitfe- woollen materials have high' necklihes finished with neat collars and,- uswally; some original * touch of trimming. A black one is amusingly treated with a spiral whirl of narrow fringe made of multi-coloured ' wool. Other models; in colour, achieve good effects 'with riovel belts, often of the draped' cunimerbund type. - ' • Talking of the wool fringes, they appear again on a black day dress, the skirt made with a delightful "windblown" - line achieved by a ■ full ' front panel. A bunch of the bright wool fringe is set in" front of the waist at the head of this fullness,* and- appears again on the complementary black hat. On. a- green evening model, - bright cerise . wool fringe is used as trimming, the contrasting colour 'note appearing also'in the head-dress and in the- wide scarf . classically draped over the gown. Celebrations. Gorgeous robes and kirtles for the Coronation ceremony are include,d.in the. collection, And .some desirable models for debutantes. and their chaperons, too. Soft .materials , are .used for the evening gowns— panne . .velvet, satin op the dull and shiny sides, a good deal. of . em-. broidered lace. , White, or off-white, for the backgrpund ahd, on this,. embrpidery of hand-applied diarqonds, applique quilting, and sequins. The slim line is maintained here, although , in .some cases there is a .suspicion of front -drapery. A Court dress in sil very- white. lame looks 'marvellous with a blue velvet train edged with sequins and . jewejs. Long suede gloves, exactly matching the train in colour, go with it. Any girl. would Iove to wear, .on ah ordinary evening occasion, a youthfui frock in horizontally striped white muslin, made with a high neckline at the back, a square front corsage, tiny sleeves and an effective Iraped corselet belt. Cheerful, this

model, and just right for less formal dances during the festive season. Things to Note . . . Suits in printed crepe are "it" this season. Often they are worn with dark blouses — sometimes black ones — or scarves, and frequently a scintillating note is struck by a large paste brooch pinned at the throat. - In the range of tweeds, skirts are slightly full, jackets are a little shorter than they were last season, and a little more jaunty in effect, often buttoning up high, with gay scarves folded in at the neck. There are suits composed of skirts in one colour and jackets in" another, or, more attractively, of a dark blue skirt, perhaps, and a blue, grey and red checked jacket— here comes the vivid touch in the form of a red blouse and a red hat. A black skirt goes amiably with a red and black check jacket, with black leather belt and tab trimmings, and a black hat. A light blue suit is worn with a dark blue blouse, and a black and white printed crepe one with a black blouse. One of the little black frocks shows open faggot stitching by way of adom-' ment, and is posed over a white foundation which glimmers through the embroideiy with smart, though restrained effect. Tiny skull caps are worn in the evening. A spedally smart dance and theatre coat in printed white satin fastens with four black buttons, is finished at the neck with a black scarf, and worn with a cap of safin. Jaqnty little white pique jackets, with a suspicion' of a basque line, pretend to be evening and day coats.. They are so attractive, with their slightly full sleeves, and they go over frocks of such seemingly improbable materials, that they are bound to have ,a cheering influence, and therefore a good reception. Diana Dane. Figure Trimming. ' One of the rather surprising things about the new fashions is the restraint the important dressmakers have exercised. in the matter of colour. It was rumoured a few months ago that Coronation year would mean a riot of bright shades, huge flower patterns, and ultragay trimmings. Actually, the new day clothes are' dark' patterned. ' Apart from ' gowns and coats designed specially for, royal and important public functions, both fabrics and colours are exquisitely dainty— soft rose-jetal pink for a young girl's dance frock; a lovely tint of lavender shading to Quaker grey for a matron's dinner dress; black combined with silver, pale gold, soft yellow, water green. Coats and skirts for everyday .we'ar, and street dresses, are mostiy black or navy blue. One of the Paris dressmakers exploited a charming * idea which ought to prove popular — of letting. a yoke of printed crejpe de chine in pastel coloinrs into a black frock, and giving it a little coatee made of similar crepe de chine. There are slight touches of colour about many of the dark models, but the outstanding feature is their simplicity.

Early Evening Frocks. Colour is, however, important where dresses for cocktail parties are concerned. This is the one occasion in the day when fashions go really gay, for not only are scarlets, purples, greens and bright golds used for the frocks, but -the styles .in which they are made are novel and amusing. Iq one of the Paris collections a* cocktail model in bright brown lace and tulle has gauntlet cuffs of soft brown kjd carried up to the elbows, and the fronts of the corsage and the collar stamped with gold studs. Bright red is used with brown for some of the cocktail party outfits, a coatee which can be slipped off when the . party is over— leaving a frock beneath, suitable for a cinema or a dinner, with no outre trimmings or effects— being decorated with startling embroideries, braids or buttons." ■ So far- as Paris is concerned, the colour for le sport is yellow. Ihe special sports houses are showing crepe de chine frocks foi tennis in pale butter tints, ochre, sulphur and lemon, blondes and brunettes- choosing the particular , tint that best suits their personal colouring. There ar- fluffy, cosy wrap coats, for slipping on after a match, in deep cream. and yellowy shades; little Viennese knitted blouses and sweaters, in which. yellow and ivory are combined; and eye-shades and bandeaux to match. - Unpicking Knitting. As it is unpicked wind the wool rouna an aluminium hot-water bottle filled with boiling water. If the wool is left. until bottle is cold," the wool will be perfectly straight.