MILESTONES IN EARLY HISTORY

Hawke's Bay Herald-Tribune, Issue 94, 7 May 1937, Page 33 (Supplement)

MILESTONES IN EARLY HISTORY

GEORGE

EBBETT

Looking back along the milestones of the Hastings borough's civic progress, it would seem a far cry to the days when Hastings sportsmen went out to the swamp where Civic Square now extends to shoot duck. In those days the first stock saleyards stood on the site of the present Fire Station. Sheep grazed behind a ditch, a gorse hedge and a wire fence at Nutter's corner, and white pine was hewn from a bush near the Mangateretere School to build the first houses in the borough. All this was comparatively recently , and a past Mayor of Hastings recalls it on this page.

YOU HAVE ASKED me to write something of what I remember of Hastings (writes Mr. Ebbett). To relate what I remember of Hastings would fill a book, and I propose to say something only about the very early days of the town as I remember it, and the history of some of the central blocks. The Heretaunga block, upon part of which Hastings stands, comprised 17,785 acres. It extended from Fernhill to the old Ngaruroro at Havelock and from the Ngaruroro at Longlands to the Karamu Creek at Mangateretere. In 1864 it was leased by Mr. Thomas Tanner from the Maori owners for £600 a year, which was afterwards increased to £700 and then to £900. Several other co-lessees were subsequently admitted by Mr. Tanner. Later a Crown grant was issued and there was a new 21-years lease to Mr. Tanner and other lessees at £1250 a year for ten years and then £1750. About 1869 Messrs. Tanner and J. N. Williams purchased the block and others were subsequently admitted and the property divided. Mr. Tanner had first pick, Mr. J. N. Williams the sec~ ' ond and the others balloted. The present borough of Hastings was included in the shares of Mr. Tanner and Mr. J, N. Williams. In 1870 Mr. Tanner sold a number of 50-acre sections at £5 an acre. My father purchased one. Mr. John Collinge, the first secretary of the Road Board and the first Town Clerk, purchased an adjoining section. Within a year or two after, Mr. Tanner seems to have cut up a portion into town sections. Mr Francis Hicks acquired 100 acres in return for ploughing done for Mr Tanner. It would be about that portion bounded by the railway, St. Aubyn street, Karamu road, Ellison street, Hastings street and Southampton street back to the railway, and another portion along Heretaunga street on both sides as far as Nelson street. Mr. J. N. Williams also sold portions of his block very early, Messrs. H. Chapman, David JolI, H. L. Gallien and Geo. Love being among the first purchasers. That was the beginning of Hastings, and when I first recall it there were probably well under 100 houses within what is now the borough. First Residences I do not remember, but I believe possibly the first actual residence built in Hastings was on the old fire station sitein Market street. There was a whitepine bush opposite the Mangateretere School about half a mile from the road; I remember it well. Here Mr. Fred Sutton put in a saw mill and most of the timber for the very early houses came from there. I know Mr. Geo. Lines built the fourth house in Queen street behind Dr. McDonnell's. He and my father gathered pumice stone at Bridge Pa and built the chimney with it. The first bricks were made in Hastings at St. Aubyn street on the block between King street and Nelson street. There was a kiln there and nothing else whatever on that block. There was a large excavation out of which they dug the clay. I don't know who the brickmaker was. East of Karamu Road At that time a ditch, a gorse hedge and a wire fence ran round Nutter's corner and Mr. Tanner 's sheep grazed inside. There was only one building in the whole block, a small three-roomed

house which stood behind where the Regent Theatre now is. It was occupied by a shepherd of Mr. Tanner's. Soon after, between that corner and Collinge road there were two houses, one about half-way, occupied by Mr. Scholes, a carpenter, and another nearer Collinge road occupied. by Mr. Freemantle, then employed by Mr. Robert Wellwood at what is now Waikoko. From Nutter's to the Havelock bridge there was not a house on this side. However, by about 1880 there were possibly a dozen residences, among the early residents being Mr. Smith, Mr. Scott and Mrs. Chambers, whose son, Mr Jimmy Chambers, became a famous overhurdles horseman. He won the Hawke 's Bay Steeplechase and the National Steeplechase for the late Mr. W. Y. Dennett on Faugh-a-Ballagh. Among the first businesses in this locality was a large ironmonger's store where Kelly's grocery is, built and occupied by Ruddock and Fryer, and later a blacksmith named Wells had a shop where Jones's drapery is. There were two dwellings only on the whole of the Regent Theatre block, and in 1904 the whole block could have been bought for £1700. Mr. David Scannell and I and others who were then borough councillors moved strongly to get the council to buy it, but we were outvoted. I don't know how many times £1700 it is worth now. On the other side from the Albert Hotel corner to the Havelock bridge there was one house, about half-way, occupied by another employee of Mr. Tanner's, Sam Jarvis. His widow recently celebrated her 93rd. birthday in Hastings, Another wire fence and deep ditch ran round this corner. Soon, however, there were a number of other houses. Mrs. Sutherland lived in one next door to the powerhouse. Mrs. Coles and Mr. Gemmell and Mr. Griffiths were also among the earliest settlers there. Later on, about 1882, Mr W. Y. Dennett built the Albert Hotel. About 1890 he sold the Carlton Club Hotel for £2,600. I witnessed his signature. The buyer sold it for £4,000, and it has since been, sold for more than £30,000. A butcher named Hammond had a shop next to the Albert. There was a small residence behind Mr F. L. Bone's present shop, but no other buildings. In the 80 's a timber and coal yard owned by the late Mr. Donald McLeod occupied about a third of the block next Warren street.

The first general stock saleyards were built by Mr. Robert Wellwood in the next block just where the present Fire Brigade Station is. I have been present at horse and cattle sales there, but the yards were before their time. In this block in the 80 's also, the Protestant Hall which has just been removed was built. Mr. Tanner gave the section. At that time a running stream passed through it, crossing the street and continuing under the Regent Theatre. When I first remember it there was a considerable dip in the street and a twelve-feet culvert in the middle of it, and raupo and water-cress grew in the stream on the road at both ends of the culvert. There were, of course, no footpaths, but the road was metalled.

Carlton Club Block In the Carlton Hotel Block there was one building, a double shop on the site of the hotel, but not on the corner When the hotel was built by Mr. Harry Thompson, who was then Mr. Tanner's manager, and a brother of Mr. T. J. Thompson, this building was pulled across to where Peach's garage is. About one-third of the block next the railway line (there was no Russell street there then) was occupied by another timber and coal yard and afterwards a sawmill owned by Knight Bros In the 80's a large ironmonger's store was built on what is now Russell street occupied first by Mr. B. L. Knight and then by Henry Williams and Sons. Next was a wooden building occupied by Hoadley and Lyon, land agents, and about where Giorgi's is there was - a blacksmith 's shop owned by Mr. Chas. Apperley, and next to him a double shop, one of which was occupied by Mr. T. Foreman, butcher. Behind this, where the Civic Square is now, was an all-the-year swamp with usually two feet or more of water in it. I have often hunted wild duck out of it. On the other side there was a small store on the Union Bank corner, kept first by Mr. Hicks and then by Mr. Warman, and the Railway Hotel where the Grand now is, kept by a Mr. Goodwin, who, I remember, was a cripple in some way, and on the Post Office corner was the post and statlonmaster's, Mr. D. A. Wrights, house. There were no other buildings, but in the 80's a Mr. James kept a store about where Shattky's is. Next to that Mr. J. Mcllroy had a blacksmith 's shop and Mr. Jas. Young a billiard saloon. At

this time Mr. W. A. Beecroft had a large horse repository on what is now a bare section in Queen street, and all the horse sales were held in yards on the Karamu road corner until Williams and Kettle constructed yards where the Public Trust Office now is. Round the Union Bank corner there was a fairly big drain into which everybody's sewerage and soap suds went, A mass of blue-flowered periwinkle covered the banks and, I remember, provided shelter for many rats. Hastings Hotel Block On the south side of the Hastings Hotel block there were four buildings. The corner was bare, but where Baird's now stands there was a blacksmith's shop kept by Doney Bros. It was merely a shed built well back from the footpath, and in front, I remember, there was always a large pile of old rusty iron and horseshoes. Next, about a chain away, was a butcher 's shop and, on Land and Heighway's corner, a grocer 's shop kept by Robert Sommerville. There was a residence behind Doney 's occupied by them. Later, on Baird's site there was a two-storey building of three shops, one kept by Mr Tyerman, a chemist, another by a Chinese grocer, the first in Hastings, and I forget who occupied the third. There was also a two-storey building where Woolworth's is, first occupied by McEwan and Murray, drapers, and then by Mr G. H. Roach; and by that time Hallenstein 's Clothing Factory had opened, the first manager being Mr Benjamin. On the other side there were two buildings. On the Bank of New South Wales corner a small wooden tailor's shop kept by a man named Macdonald and about the centre a bootmaker's shop kept by Mr Robert Fuzzard. In the 80 's the Hastings Hotel was built by Mr. John Higgins, and Mr. Eldred Beck came from Clive and built the largest store in Hastings where Clausen's is and a flour mill where Williams and Kettle 's bulk store is. A man named Edwin Metherill was the first miller. Mr. W. C. Maddison, the present Mayor 's father, was Beck's grocery manager, and later he and the late Mr. William Beilby ran the business themselves. Mr. A. B. Greene had a small office on the present site of the Bank of New Zealand. He and Messrs W. D. Ireland and Bethel Ware were the first commission agents in Hastings, and the last-named was the first secretary of the Hastings Building Society

more than fifty years ago. At one period the Bank of New Zealand closed up in Hastings and the land and premises were for sale at £600, with no buyers. Roachs' Block All these buildings on both sides were destroyed by the big fire in 1893, I think. In Roach 's block on the south side there was only one building when I first remember it — a small wooden shop and dwelling with a verandah flush with the inside of the footpath, kept by a Mrs. Kelly. Very early a grocer 's shop was built on Roachs' corner by Mr. Thomas Hayes. The Union Bank and Mr. H. O. Johnson, a chemist, had premises on part of what is now Roach 's, and Mr. John Robertson had a blacksmith's shop about the centre of the block. There was more demand for blacksmiths then than there is now. The Pacific Hotel was at Havelock. The licensee there was a man named Gilmour. The hotel was shifted from there in sections to its present site in Hastings. I remember a man was killed while working on this job. On the other side there was also only one building, a bootmaker's shop, kept by Mr. Robert Taylor, but the first English Church was built on the Gas Company's corner in the 70's. The site was given by Mr. William Vickers. The Rev. Mr. St. Hill was the first minister, and then the Rev. Hubert McLean. Both were stationed at Havelock, Hastings being then only a subparish. The Rev. Mr. Hobbs, father of Mr. Barton Hobbs, the accountant, came about 1883. I went to Sunday School here in 1878, the teachers being Miss Hamilton (a daughter of Dr. Hamilton), Miss A. Percy (a sister of the teacher), And Miss Doney (a sister of the blacksmith). The Rev. Mr. Nicol was the first Presbyterian minister, and I think Father Le Manent de Chesnais or Father Smythe was the

first Catholic priest, although I can just remember Father Reigner. I gather he was highly respected by people of all denominations. Mr. Noah Watts rang the Sunday School bell and Mr. William White was the first verger. Very early Mr. Geo. Hastings built a paint and paper shop and Messrs. Mclvor and Wyatt a butcher 's shop on this side, in this block, and in the 90's Mr. James Garnett built premises on the Market street corner. West of King Street In the next block on the corner opposite the Cosy Theatre was a saddler's shop kept by Mr. Brown, and soon after Mr. Michael Baldwin came from Clive and built a butcher 's shop next to it. From there to Stortford Lodge there were no buildings, but later Mr. Richard Vaughan had a baker's shop about half-way. In this block in the 80's the Princess Theatre, the first in Hastings, was built by a syndicate of which, I think, Sir William Russell was chairman and Mr. W. D. Ireland was the secretary. It was afterwards purchased by Mr. George Ellis, who also built and established Newbigin's Brewery and who was later a mayor of Hastings. It was in his time the present sewer was built. On the Cosy Theatre site there were two small buildings, one kept by a tinsmith and the other by Mr. Goldsborough, a cabinet-maker. About opposite Charles street Mr. Robert Wall lived, and next there was a house then occupied by the Grooms; further on the Galliens lived, and further on again Mr George Love occupied his own house. There were no other buildings near the road. The First Schools The first public school which I attended was in St. Aubyn street behind the new Loan and Mercantile Agency Company building. I think there were then about fifty or sixty scholars and two teachers. The master was Mr. W. O. McLeod, and Miss Chapman and Mrs. McLeod taught the girls sewing on Friday afternoons while the boys drilled. There were four houses on Wilson and Canham's corner. The corner one was occupied by Mr. Thomas Wheat, a threshing-mill owner, the next by Mr. John McKnight, the next by Mr. William Lane, who afterwards became Mayor, and the last by Mr. Thomas Styles, whose descendants still occupy it. With those exceptions there were no buildings between

the railway line and Karamu road as far as the showground. It was all grazed by Mr. Williams's, sheep, but there was a small space, now mostly occupied by Holt's mill, which was the school playground. In 1879, however, the Heretaunga private school was built by Mr. Robert Bailey for Mr. William Nelson on what is now the Nelson cricket ground, Mr. Rainbow, father of the deputy-Mayor, being the first headmaster. There was no pampering in those days such as there is now. I have seen a boy held over a form and thrashed with a horsewhip for swearing. The Sweeny family walked from Pukahu to Hastings every day to school. We shifted to the site of the present Central School in 1880. This building then consisted of one room and a porch. Most of the playing was done in the paddock opposite the school. Southampton street, Lyndon road and Eastbourne street were not formed. In the early 80 's came as teachers Misses H. Percy, M. Newton, Caughley, King, Wood, and others, and Messrs. J. A. Smith, C. Laws, who afterwards became the head of the Wesleyan Church in New Zealand and Mr. John Caughley, who afterwards became Director of Education, Reynolds, Cuthbert and others. Early A. and P. Shows The first A. and P. show I ever remember going to was held on the ground now comprising the block in which the Courthouse stands and also the Presbyterian Church block. There was no Lyndon road there, and these two blocks were enclosed by a high paling fence. I don't remember much about it but I do recollect that a hive of bees was exhibited. It may have been the first I had ever seen, but it was probably a novelty then. I remember the police station being built there in 1879, and I think the first policeman was a mounted man

with a red beard, named Lawless. I think Mr. Arthur Pickering succeeded him. He was, of course, policeman, Clerk of the Court, bailiff, registrar of births, and everything else. After he retired he kept the Te Aute Hotel. Early Race Meetings The first race meeting I saw in Hastings was the steeplechase in 1883, and I have seen every Hawke 's Bay Steeplechase since then, fifty-four in all. I think the Hawke 's Bay Jockey Club came to the Hastings Racecourse about 1878. In those times the steeplechase course was made specially each year and went out almost to Murdoch road, and there was a water jump within about four chains of that road and the horses traversed ploughed paddocks. There are no horses now like those of that day. They carried twelve or thirteen stone for three and a-half and sometimes four miles, over stone walls, water jumps and other obstacles of a height and strength not seen in these times. Of course, they were slower. I remember a horse trotting between a double jump; he could not canter slowly enough. Sires like The Painter, Riddlesworth, Daydawn, Puriri, The Mute and others produced horses with tremendous stamina and steel legs. They often started in three races in one day and not infrequently in two successive races, and sometimes covered six miles in the one afternoon. In those times there were horse races all round the district. Such places as Petane, Omahu, Fernhill, Hampden, Pakipaki and Ongaonga all had race meetings. Maori races where bags of oats were the prizes were also popular and plentiful. The first I went to was at Pakowhai. They were all catch weights, and it became a habit to put Maori boys up wearing nothing but shirts. When ladies began to attend, one of the rules drawn up was: "No riding with out trousers." First Trots The first few trotting meetings I attended in Hastings were held in a paddock at the corner of Gordon and Maraekakaho roads, on part of which the Hastings West School now stands. The Stortford Lodge Hotel, in those days kept by Mr. William Stock, who built it, was on the latter road about opposite Mr. Lowe's shop. It was afterwards shifted to its present position. The trotting meetings were then held for some years on what is now the Stortford Lodge corner. When they ceased the course was bought and subdivided and sold by a syndicate of which Mr. D. E. Davis was a member. First Traction Engine The first traction engine that came to Hastings was imported by one of the Messrs. Chambers. I think Mr. Malcolm Newrick, who is still here, drove it from the railway to Havelock. I remember it went down to its axles in mud outside the Albert Hotel and that it took a long time to get it out. The first reaper and binder in this district was imported by Mr. Robert Wellwood. There was a gathering of farmers in a paddock of oats and Collinge road to see it demonstrated, and I went. It bound the sheaves with wire and when they became chaff shreds of wire were left in it, which resulted in the death of some horses. The First Doctor The first doctor in Hastings was, I think, Dr. Hamilton, who lived at the corner of Market and St. Aubyn streets where Queenswood School was. Soon after, Dr. Faulkner, father of the dentist; Dr. Linney and Dr. Tosswill came. Dr. Linney was a character famous for his furious driving. He had some good horses. He employed a groom who was very unsatisfactory, but the doctor, a good-natured man, put up with him for a long time. Finally he left and asked Dr. Linney for a recommendation, which he got. He couldn't read and brought it to me to read for him. I have always been

sorry I did not take a copy of it. It was priceless. I remember it began: "So-and-so has been in my employ for so long. During that time I have known him to be sober, and I have never actually caught him stealing." Vehicles for Hire The first one-horse express that plied for hire was one owned by Mr. Harry Rawdens, and soon after he had a cab and then more cabs. His premises were first in Market street, where Williams and Creagh are, but very early he shifted to the corner where the Tourist Motor Company now is. In the early 80's Mr. W. A. Beecroft provided what in those times was a very complete outfit of horses and vehicles, including a hearse and a hansom cab, at his premises and saleyards in Queen street. The first head man he employed was Mr. Tommy Brinson, who remained in that service a long time. Another employee was Mr Barney Boyle, who took all the horses to Murdoch road every evening. He rode a creamy pony, a real mongrel to look at, but he could trot. I remember Mr Beecroft once bought an unbroken chestnut horse that turned out to be a real outlaw. They got a saddle on him in a race, but I think nobody ever rode him. He was in a loose box, and one day Brinson and Boyle were ordered to saddle him. I forget why I was there, but I know it was the lunch hour. The box had a top and bottom door with a stout rail across the middle. They both went in and it was easy to see they were deadly afraid. After a very few seconds the horse reared, bared his teeth and commenced to hit round with his front feet. Boyle and Brinson at the same instant made a wild dive to get out under the rail. Their heads collided and both were unconscious for several minutes. If I go on telling stories I will fill another page of your paper. Early Tomoana I remember Tomoana being built, and I was present at the official opening in 1884. Most of the construction work was done by Mr Robert Bailey and Mr Henry Chapman. Mr J. S. Ellwood was the first manager. Before that there was a boiling-down works owned by R. P. Williams at Whakatu and a small steamer, the Bella, used to steam up the river and lift the tallow, etc. In those days I saw good legs of mutton sold for ninepence , and, towards the end of the day, two for a shilling. I sold good halfbred wool in 1903 for 4½d a pound, and I remember buying five hundred-odd blackface lambs for 5/3. I fattened them at Twyford and sold them to the works for 3¾d per pound and did well enough. In this story the following people whose names I have mentioned or their descendants are still in this district, and some of them may easily be able to correct me in some details of the various positions I have referred to: Thos. Tanner, J. N. Williams, Collinge, G. Scott, Geo. Smith, Chambers, Chapman, Joll, Gallien, Love, Dennett, Fryer, Wells, Freemantle, Jarvis, Sutherland, Griffiths, McLeod, Wellwood, T. J. Thompson, Knights, Hoadley, Apperley, Higgins, Maddison, Beilby, Greene, Hayes, Robertson, Vickers, Baldwin, Vaughan, Goldsborough, Wall, Mclvor, Wyatt, Garnett, Russell, Ellis, Hobbs, Hamilton, Watts, White, Land, Styles, Rainbow, Sweeny, Newrick, Faulkner and Tosswill. I see I went to school with thirty-four of them. Term as Mayor If I am compelled to say anything about my own term as Mayor, that is more difficult. I think that not sufficient credit is ever given to the mayors and councils long before my time, who had to plough the very early furrows. In those times they took over every subdivision as it was and had to put in roads and footpaths and channels and sewer; there were few or no roads or footpaths, no amenities such as are

available now, and the income they had was only a fraction of what it is to-day. I think I can claim for the council who were with me that some small achievements for the better were made as a result of our efforts. I know those matters are not very stale in the memory of many local residents yet. For many years St. Aubyn street, between King street and Tomoana road, had been a half -chain thoroughfare. It was widened to a full chain at no expense to the council. Caroline road at its outlet to St. Aubyn street was also a half-chain road. Railway Road reached only to the High School. It was extended to Murdoch road at no expense to the borough except, in all three cases, the actual cost of the new formation. Nelson Park was acquired from Mr. William Nelson at what was, I think, much below its real value. I know it has to be open to the public within the next few years. Mr. Nelson was firm that the fences had to be removed and that it should be left open from the beginning. We had twenty years to pay for it, and I remember the trouble we had to get him to vary that by allowing us to keep it closed and levy charges for its use so long as any of the purchase money remained owing. Russell Street Many will know Russell street, til then known as Station street did not extend south beyond Heretaunga street. There was no railway crossing at Eastbourne street, and on the existing Russell street, and where the Mothers' Rest is, there was a sawmill and timber-yard. Altogether, it was a very unsightly and undesirable locality, especially as it filled the eye of every passer-by in the train. Messrs. Knight Bros. gave 66 feet frontage to Heretaunga street, but gained 300 feet to the new street. The property where the Mothers' Rest is was purchased and the street extended to Lyndon road. Much as they disliked it, the Railway Department were persuaded to open the Eastbourne street crossing. The actual building known as the Mothers' Rest did not cost the borough anything. The whole cost was donated mainly by those who benefited by the opening of the street. This was not the first Women 's Rest. One had been carried on for some time previously very successfully by a women 's organisation in a building somewhere opposite the Protestant Hall. Borough Pictures The first picture pooling arrangement was made for very sound reasons into which I need not go. It was violently opposed in the council and elsewhere. I am just a little proud of the fact that it has continued until to-day. It has resulted in many thousands of pounds reaching the coffers of the council, and nobody has suffered anything. I know there has been some adverse comment lately because of an increase in the charge of reserving seats; but how many people are aware that the forty-hour week and wage increases cost three picture houses only in the vicinity of £800 year? Memorial Hospital There had been struggle for years to get a hospital established in Hastings. It was resumed by the council while I was Mayor. I was chairman of the committee and of the executive which organised the collection of some £17,000 or £18,000, arranged for the purchase of the site, and supervised the erection of the building. But that is another story. At this time I think that any who have been to some extent responsible for the position of Hastings to-day, and for the status of its council among the boroughs of New Zealand, have some reason to be proud of what has been accomplished in the fifty-odd years of its existence.