A Trip to Wonderland and Back.

Hastings Standard, Issue 253, 22 February 1897, Page 4

A Trip to Wonderland and Back.

BY THE SATURATED PILGEIM

[To the Editor.]

Two things of importance I ought to have referred to before leaving the " Nunnery," the place of our last camp, not " Monastery," as I named it. The first is, that there is an extensive wool wash with all the latest improvements, belonging to Mr Anderson, on the Napier side of the Tarawera river. The day we passed the works was very suitable for wooldrying, there were large quantities of that commodity out on the drying grounds, looking clean and bright, and seemingly to have been got up in first-class style. In outlying places where cartage is so expensive, having all the dirt removed from the wool, not only enhances its value, but is a large consideration iu the cost of transit. Several of the sheep owners from that and other distant parts of the country drive their sheep down to the vicinity of Napier to get them shorn, but for my part 1 think the cure is nearly as bad as the disease, as it must knock the sheep about considerably driving them backwards and forwards. I was very sorry we were so pressed for time, having to go a certain distance to make the several camping places suitable for man and beast, or I would only have been too happy to have accepted the very kind invitation of the manager of the woolwashing establishment to have a look over the works ; an invitation kindly tendered to all the party. And the second is that it always gives me great pleasure to note industry and perseverance, and I must say the bump of perseverance is strongly developed in Mr Heberly, of Tarawera, he having several times erected his woolwash in the bed of the creek that runs past the " Nunnery." The buildings and plant are not extensive, a? Mr Heberly does not go in for sheep farming on a large scale, but I should imagine that a more suitable place could be obtained for the woolwash, as every time that there is the least flood or rising in the creek some part of the plant gets washed away, and if the cost of the plant is not very heavy, there must be a certain loss of time in again having to erect it. The sheep I saw running about Tarawera belonging to him seem a good lot, and in fairly good condition.

We have now entered the Hot Lakes District proper, as there is a splendid hot bath to be obtained quite close to Tarawera, although not visited by any of our party, all of us being too tired to walk a mile or two after nightfall. February 3.

A splendid day—bright, warm, and clear ; the road rising so much that we can go on foot as fast as the conveyances, so we have a magnificent time of it tramping through the dense forest enlivened by the glorious song of the countless birds by which we are surrounded. The bush through which we pass is mostly composed of rimu, matai, and black birch—not much totara to be met with. I cannot imagine a grander walk to be met with in any part of the world than the one we passed over that day, or grander sights to be seen than met the eye in every direction —stupendous hills and rocks on one side and wooded ravines ou the other, with bright, cold streams twisting through the bottom, and beautiful waterfalls emptying themselves down hundreds of feet with a noise of thunder or of heavy artillery. It is impossible for any one to describe or yet for any one to have any idea of the grandeur to be met with on all sides as you jog along. Walking seems no trouble, and none seem to get tired as there is always something of interest meeting your ga/.e, so you have no time to feel fatigued. Onward past native settlements, all in a high state of cultivation, with the crops of oats and wheat not yet ready for the reaping machine ; the inhabitants always ready to welcome you with their loud shouts of " Hcremai ! Heremai !" and plying you with questions of their relatives at Omahii, Waipatu, Paki Paki, and elsewhere when they have ascertained that you have come from Hastings, and several of our party are well-known to mostly all the natives we meet on the journey. On past Teharito, where there was a large block house in the early stirring times already alluded to, in which was stationed a large contingent of European constabulary and their native allies to watch the movements of Te Kooti, that arch-demon and rebel in human shape and his blood-thirsty followers. There is not a vestage of tlie old block house now standing to mark the old site where it once stood, nor are there many left of the bold pioneers that did so much to make this a peaceful and smiling land. If memory serves me correctly, it was either at Teharito or Tarawera where a young Native was stationed. He had belonged to No. H division of the constabulary commanded by the late Colonel dames Eraser. Thisvoung Native, by name Hori te Rore, was ju>t recovering from a severe illness of fe\er and got his discharge out t>f the force from St. John JJrannigan, who was then at that time commander or eommis.sioner of the armed constabulary. Hori was playing cards in the tent along with several of his coin panions, Europeans and Natives, when he made the remark, " I am tired of life mid will shout myself. 1 Those present took little heed of his remark, and some remarked "you are not game to do it,' 1 but before anyone could interfere lit! quietly moved to the tent pole, and, taking his revolver down, bitiW his brains out, much to the astonishment of all pre-ent. Poor lion was a general f:tu.nt«- in hia division, No. H, which wa- partly composed of Europeans ai»l Natives. He belonged to the Ngapuhi or Pay of Is'a ids, and was a good English liuguist. I knew him well. We now begin to climb the famous Turanga Kumu, but 1 really think wo have been climbing ever since we left

the " Nunnery " in the morning. I forgot to mention that we passed a way on our left hand the old mark of " JJold's Folly." where a road was started to bo made in an impractible place. One might as well try to make a road to the moon. On this day's march we passed two waterfalls, far surpassing in grandeur the one to be seen at the Mohaka bridge. We have now reached the top of Turanga Kumu. It is really a grand sight to look down into the valley below, and, by the expressions uttered by thoss of our party that had never been up this way before, each sight that we had as yet met was grander than the ones previously seen. In passing through a small belt of bush before reaching the top of Turanga Kumu one of our party of large dimensions and with a rather a military look came up to the medical man with a horrified expression 011 his countenance, holding something in his pocket-handkerchief. This individual declared that he had been stung by a venemous reptile, and that he was sinking fast. The perspiration was fairly boiling out of him, and his knees were knocking together like castannettes, which the medico at once put down to either fear or fatigue, as the climb had been toilsome and the heat was almost unbearable in the sun. The medical man at once administered a dose of " James Hennessy's" double-distilled barley water, of which he always carried a small quantity for medicinal purposes. The afflicted quickly partook, and asked for one small drop more, as he said it made him feel "good oh!" By this time the medico had his instrument case open, and, having taken out a half-inch augur and a rip-saw, plainlytold him he would have to undergo an operation if he wanted to live and keep up his avoirdupois. The nature of the operation being explained, he declined Avith thanks, saying he " was not taking any of it." The reptile was then closely scrutinised, and was found to be a " Try wontigon," or small green spider, that are frequently to be met with in the bush. The medical man felt truly sorry that he was deprived of trying his surgical skill on such a fine subject to operate on ; but all is well that ends well.

Having surmounted and been skillfully driven down Turanga Kumu and given the horses a good drink at the bottom, the party had a small drop of barley water to counteract the heat of the sun, and started quite refreshed for Rangatiki. The country which we were now passing through was very poor—all pumicein fact, yon could not feed a grasshopper on a thousand acres of it, although the numbers of wild horses we saw looked fat and well. There was nothing interesting until we reached the Rangatiki Hotel, which is a very nice, clean well kept house, belonging to Messrs Crowther and Macauley, the nnterprising coach proprietors, and looked after by Mrs Kemp, so well and favorably known to all travellers on this line, and where one and all is sure to meet with buiet, comfort, civility, and low charges. The horses having stopped at the door of the hotel of their own accord, there was nothing for it but for us all to dismount and sample the barley water to be obtained at this pleasant-looking hostelry, and right well did some of our party sample it, and it had a wonderful effect on most of them. We had not long arrived befove I heard that heart stirring song the " Royal Fussilier " struck up with the tin whistle accompanyment, all hands joining with a freewill in the chorus. If it was not musical, at all events it was pretty loud, and must have astonished the trout quietly disporting and flycatching in the close adjoining river. A grand snap shot was here obtained by our burly leader, but he had some trouble! to get some of the party in a perpendicular position. As it was felt that we were now in Maori country proper, we wound up with a liaka and war dance, which can be better imagined than described, so, after wishing the kind hostess a " Tearful farewell, we all started poorer, if not wiser tourists. I forgot to mention that the party who h>id had such a narrow escape from death through the bite of the reptile before we left the Rangatiki persisted in kissing one and all a solemn farewell, wishing to be remembered to his friends in Hastings, as he solemnly declared that he would never see another sun rise, as the poison of the reptile was now beginning to circulate through his system. What a good tiling for our medico if he had passed the box. lbcould then have gone in with his augur and cross-cut saw and held a post mortem inquiry on the body.

Bowling now for Opipi, nothing lobe seen hut wild horses, tussock, and stunted manuka, not a very cheering .sight, but. at last, < )[)ipi is reached, wlr»re we unharness tho horso* for a short time to get a little grass, as it is )ilt litifit! about here. We also boil the billy and have a drop of tea and souieLhillto rat, as we Lave had a long trying day and still nine or ten more miles to go.

Opipi is now a thing of the past, but it will long be remembered, as the place where tlu? troopers were so ruth-le-tily butchered by the Uau Hans or the followers of Te Kooti. The poor fellows had no chance of escape or to defend themselves, as thev were caught like rats in a trap, ft is such u long time since the occurrence (hat some of til.* facts have escaped my memory, although at the time of the mas.-aciv I ua-. mi my way to Tnupo with cattle for the (iovernment, and would haw- had lo pa- - (he in of fht-tr:i-'<-d_\ . I \\a- 1 neii'lil i =i. k a,el -• lit round to Matatu by the old steamer Sturt in command <>! Captain I air child, \utii Mr Murphy, <>f Woodville, as chief mate, and a rough passage we had of it. 1 he old hurt w.i.. m-.ulv m a sinking t.iU-. tin waur m fist" hold tiling up to the bellies of Us. cattle. There nr.- some of the graves of the jMX>r fellow t -sill to at Opipi, although some of tile bodies <j( the unforHiaatva murdered niin n 1

after a time to Tauranga, where their friends resided. Some of our party visited the graves, and took away a fewflowers as a memento of their visit, to Opipi. No rest for the wicked ; off again now for the Terrace Hotel, about two miles on the other side of Opipi. Taupo lake appears to view like a vast beautiful panorama, with Tongariro and Te Maru raising their steaming heads in the background. From where the lake came first into view in the setting sun it was a sight never to be forgotten for real grandeur. People may rave about seeing Naples, Venice, and Rome, but let them once see Lake Taupo, and then they will die consented, or, like some of our party, woult' growl to be hung. The road from where we, first came in view of the lake to the Terrace Hotel being all down hill we rattled along in fine style, and arrived at our destination a little before sundown, after a journey of nearly fifty miles with one team of horses—not a bad journey at all for amateurs. (To be Continued.)