6000 MILES BY BICYCLE

Grey River Argus, 22 April 1911, Page 1

6000 MILES BY BICYCLE

ADVENTURES OF TWO ENGLISH- .. MEN Messrs F. H. Melland and E. N. Cholmeley, of the Chartered Company's service, just back in London, have . interesting- stories to tell of a journey of six thousand . miles undertaken by them. . A third .of this was from North-eas-tern 'Rhodesia to the frontier at Gondokoro, and performed almost entirely 'on bicycles After leaving, their respective stations the travellers proceeded from Abercorn to the German boundary, where they visited the Kalambo Falls, which, with a sEcer drop of 700 ft, are probably the hift hest in the world. They then struck into the German Protectorate, they spent a period of six weeks. In many of - the districts traversed the appaerance of the cyclists caused considerable excitement, particularly among: those tribes who had scarcely come into contact with" Europeans; After crossing 1 itfie Iffnglo-Gerntian boundary Messrs Melland and Cholmeley struck* south-east: to Mwazye, | in order t6 visit Rukwa LaKe, which j is interesting", aS it has no" known outlet. This sheet of water lies at j the bottom of a 'deep escarpment, the , descent to which', Ceingr often of a J gradient of two in 1 "three, was extremely difficult',, but was eventually accomplished in safety. The lake was at one time almost entirely dry, but subsequently filled again. At the north end, which was visited on this I occasion, the water had again disappeared. The dried lake left a heavy deposit of potash, and during the dry season the deposit was blown about to such an extent that the ; sun was obscured. In the neighbourhood the travellers J visited 'some very interesting and little known tribes some of whom are ruled by : a family entirely distinct from the people. This ruling- caste i is known as Watwaki, and was founded' by a woman called Unda, who carrie-' from the north 150 years go. One section of the tribe is now governed' by a chief tainess called Sa, who has just succeeded an v older ruler. She received the travellers with ' great ceremony, which was scarcely in -keeping. with her costume Which' included hobnail- boots and an old straw hat. Another member of this ruling;" family has founded a religious' house, and, with three of her friends, are the only known cases of African native women taking the veil. GERMAN ACTIVITY Referring; to the progress of, the German Protectorate, the travellers remarked on the. activity and progress to be seen on all hands, undoubtedly due in large measure to tEc personal influence of Herr Demburg, the" late German Colonial Secretary, and his visit. The natives in the German sphere appeared to be contented and- happy, and the administration seemed to.be modelled on the system • in vogue in the British protectorates. Work on the railway was in active progress, and the_ line from the coast at Dar es Salaam was expected to reach the inland administration centre at Tabora this year. After their tour .of the German Potectorate the travellers reached Mwanse, the German port on the souin end -of Victoria Nyanza, in September, and travelled to Entebbe, and after a flying, visit to the East African Protectorate returned to the > Uganda capital with the object of proceeding to the Soudan frontier. Motoring ; a distance of 130 miles to the north-west they reached Mubendi at Lake Albert.- Here they reconstituted their caravan^ and again ( mounting their bicycles started for Huima. At one portion of the road the natives refused tb sleep in camp owing- to the presence of lions, who were heard round the tents at night. The travellers then made a detour to the west, through very little known country, in the Bugomo Forest the tropical growth, was so dense that there was a condition of perpetual twilight, and it was only possible to read with difficulty even at mid-day. Herds of elephants numbering as many as 2UO, were encountered, and a giant forest hog, measuring 3ft 9in at the shoulder was seen. After six weeks' big game hunting th"c travellers struck the Nile in November. Here the carriers refused to go any further, owing to the disturbed state of the country, and fresh men, together with an escort of police and irregulars, were obtained. This district is closed to travellers owing to the attitude of the Lango people, who had recently murdered a Government native agent and his followers. Fortunately, on * this occasion there was no trouble, and expedition reached the Soudan frontier in December.