PARIS FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2678, 6 November 1882, Page 4

PARIS FASHIONS.

[From '* The Queen," August 19th.] The hot weather during the last ten days has permitted real summer toilettes to be worn for the first time this season with comfort. The number of red costumes to be seen on our coast is incredible. At Trouville, "Viscountess de Courval wears in in the morning a red Surah costume trimmed with red lace, and a large Gainsborough hat with shaded red feathers. The skirt Is mounted in wide kilts, and the panier bodice is draped at the back in a well accentuated pouf ; a rod lace ruche is carried round the paniers. At Etretat Princess Laboniirslri, the Marquise de Vassoigne, and the Baronne des Vaux all wear red cotton dresses without any trimming and very simply made, with double skirts draped full at the back. Embroidered red parasols—either cotton or silk—accompany such costumes. The eccentricities in millinery at the seaside "are still more startling than in gowns. Some hats are made of twisted hay, and trimmed with wild flowers, and they are even more objectionable than the fruit basket hats. Large hats made of rushes are also to be seen, and these are adorned with red and silver fish in marine greenery. X saw one specimen with a large carp among the grass. But elegantes—women of recognised taste —arc never seen in such vagaries; they prefer the immense hat 3 called " de meunier," made in simple straw and trirumed with a velvet band. The round soft felt hats are also frequently worn in red, white, and dark blue. They have a glossy surface, and remain without ornament of any sort. The berets should be left to children ; they are unsuitable even to very young women. At Etretat some of the costumes are eminently picturesque. Mlle 3. Collinet wear in the morning large checked cambric dresses, with round pelerine collars of ecru canvas, tied with plaid ribbons; their evening dresses are Pompadour foulards draped with shaded satin ribbons, lime. de Roisel wears blue linen, trimmed with plaid braid; the narrow plain skirt is edged with three rows of it, each four inches wide ; the gathered bodice is confined round the waist with a plaid sash tied at the side ; grey felt hat, with grey feathers ; long buttonless grey gloves worn over the sleeves. Many French ladies at Etretat have adopted the English tailormade costume —dark, close-fitting, officer's collar, and metal buttons, and very trim and neat they look. Bed and blue are the leading colours at Etretat, which, after all, is not a very dressy place ; it is more Bohemian than Trouville, where the women make five toilettes per day, while at Etretat they confine themselves to three. The bathing costumes worn at the latter place are quite diffex - ent from anything to be seen in England; they are gay in color and elaborately trimmed ; a Yokohama hat, tied with red, strings, is on the head, and shoes or espradilles, with the monogram of the wearer embroidered on them, guard the feot from the pebbles. The bathing is witnessed by quite an amphitheatre of spectators on the beach ; the women, as a rule, swim capitally. Several marriages have recently been celebrated in country houses, where the toilettes have been of the richest description. One bride, now Mnie. de Brunoy, who was married last week, wore a white faille and satin dress. The skirt consisted of wide bands of the two materials used alternately, the satin bands being gathered ; an enormous faille ruche, lined with satin, bordered it; the long narrow train, rouunded at the end, was of bouillonne satin, and trimmed with eight rows of real Valenciennes lace and slender garlands of orange blossoms. The bodice was gathered on the shoulders, and crossed over the bust; the epaulettes were thin cordons of orange blossoms, quite at the top of the sleeves. The veil was old Aleneon lace, fastened on with pearl pins. The ornaments were all pearls. The bride Teturned her visits in dark green Merveilleaux, trimmed with old Bruges lace and a quantity of small bows of ribbon of Wo shades of green. Bonnet of the same lace, with a spray of eglantine ; scarabee earrings in emeralds and diamonds. Plain velvet is decidedly reinstated into favor. The popular checked taffetas dresses are made with velvet collar, cuffs, and sash. "Velvet bands border tunics of light materials, and small velvet bodices are seen with embroidered white muslin skirts. The new ribbons are velvet, backed with satin, both in plain colors. Sometimes the velvet is embroidered—as, for example, on a dress worn by Mdlle. de Montesquion, -which is ■white woollen, trimmed with dark blue velvet, worked in colored flowerets; the bodice plain blue velvet, and the hat with flowers to match the embroidered ones. The Countess de la Kochefoucauld, now staying at Villeneuve, wears grey Surah, studded with Pompadour flowers, and trimmed with flots of pink, blue, green, and lilac ribbons to match the flowers. Her large white straw hat is trimmed with the same narrow ribbons. Mile, de Lauriston wears a charming percale dress, studded with currants and cherries, her straw hat having hunches of black currants at the side of the crown. The Countess da Chazelles wears cherries on her black hat, which is further enlivened with red ribbon striped with black ; the dress is black linen, with btinches of painted cherries. Elegant deshabilles (known in England as tea gowns) are much worn in French country houses at dinners, when only intimate friends are present. Countess de Molembaix wears a pretty example made of a gauze material, shaded from brown to orange and yellow. It is long, has a double plait at the back, and the sleeves, known as " engageantes," are of lace, reaching only to the elbow. The open square bodice is worn with a fichu. Eastern embroidery and gold embroidery are much used on these deshabilles, for which all sorts of curious materials are put into requisition. Fancy shoes are quite out of favor with our elegantes; the silk or thread stockings match the dress exactly, and the plainer'the shoe is the better taste it is considered. . i

£. "ay wedding took place at a chateau in Korninndy recently, for which M. Worth supplied the bridal dress and the Maison Boger the re3t of the trousseau. The dress was white satin and brocatelle ; the satin train WU3 bordered with a thick tulle ruche, in the centre of which was a garland of orange blossoms; the tablier was a masJs of pearls and long pearl fringe ; the

I simple brocatelle bodice with small paniers had a bouquet fastened into the waistband. The travelling costuine was in telegraph blue cloth, trimmed with appfiques of velvet of a darker shade, the collar also being velvet. The afternoon visiting dress was dark brown satin made with wa.stcoat of lighter satin, covered with ficelle guipure, and fastened with large marcassite buttons ; a small 2>eplum of brown chenille, with points in front and drapery at the back. The tea gown was pale blue foulard opening over a white embroidered flounced petticoat. The foulard was embroidered with small birds' heads, and a thick blue cord fastened the robe round the waist. The dinuer dress was black grenadine, exquisitely embroidered with violets. The beauty of all these dresses consisted in the embroidery being worked specially on the various parts after having been cut out. The result is always better than when worked in the piece, and made to fit the dress. Two items in this handsome trousseau remain to be chronicled—a jacket bodice to be worn with skirts of Japanese material in which gold is introduced, and a breakfast jacket. The first is Hortensia pink Victoria faille braided with gold and silver in Hungarian designs; the jacket fitted closely at the back, but loose in fro*nt, over a white satin waistcoat covered in Japanese embroidery. The second is white foulard, dotted with large blue, yellow and lilac dots, covered with lace of the three colors, and fastened with pink ribbons ; the sleeves are gathered at the shoulder, elbow and wrist. The bride's mother wore at the ceremony an effective green satin costume of the shade called "Normandy apple," and trimmed with kiltings of a darker green ; tablier of black Chautilly lace. Prmcesse bodice of dark green gauze broche with velvet, and trimmed with points of embroidered velvet. The bodice was gracefully draped over the skirt and opened over a light green satin waistcoat and flots of black Chantilly. The bride's elder sister wore creamy white China crepe, trimmed with . rich lace, and a lace capote with roses. Her two daughters, aged respectively two and three, were in white embroidered cambric costumes, with red Mine. Georgette, 21, Rue Louis-le-Grand, has been making some seasonable hats and bonnets for country and seaside wear. For touring in Switzerland there are coarse brown straw hats, trimmed with plaid ribbons and a tuft of red poppies ; for seaside, Manilla straw hats lined with ecru lace and trimmed with the same, likewise laro-e brown straw hats lined with rod ; a soleilbowin front and some red " Sultan of Morocco " roses. Forjgarden wear there are pretty, bell-shaped hats of Belgian straw, trimmed with a bouillonne of dark blue velvet and lace and a torsade of maize gauze, with the head and breast of a silver pheasant. Mme. Georgette has also introduced several pretty parasols for garden fetes. They are all large, and tho sticks, likewise large, are of Indian ivory with crescent-shaped handles. A good example has a violet Surah cover, bordered with shaded violets and a thick ivory stick. The simplest parasols are those covered in red twill and studded with small blue diables; ecru lace at the edge, and streamers of red and blue ribbon at the top -, a bunch of cherries for handle. The new floral fans at Mme. Georgette's are seasonable and pretty. One example has a background of white jessamine crossed with four red and yellow tulips. Another fan consists of a single poppy in velvet and satin with black heart, bound with red ribbon, and about the size of a plate. Mdme. Marguerite, 35 Avenue de I'Opera, is also making successful bonnets for country and seaside wear. For the former, this popular modiste uses white Flemish lace and a single bow of bright red ribbon in front of the crown; at the back two long ends of the same ribbon fall from the curtain. For gay spas and watering places, Mdme. Marguerite makes hats of pale ruby velvet, with brims of ficelle lace and a tuft of pink and red poppies. The travelling hats are of coarse straw lined and edged with claret velvet; a large velvet bow with a bird painted on one loop ; also brown and dark blue straw hats trimmed with velvet to match, and a . bird. Mdme. Marguerite invariably ornaments travelling hats with a pretty fancy bird, beause it is less perishable than ribbons or lace. The Maison Pingat is busy making costumes for country visits and deshabilles, or tea gowns. The latter are in black Surah, with a gathered Wattau plait at the back and opening in front over ecru lace, ornamented with blue bows. For ordinary calling dresses much shot taffetas is used, and for the trotteuses or walking costumes serge cloth, the skirts kilted and machine stitched, and the jacket bodices braided. The summer dresses in light Japanese cottons, printed to imitate writing in Arab characters, are general, but the embroidered ecru batiste costumes turned out at this Maison are decidedly pretty. Eliane De Massy.