LONDON FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2632, 13 September 1882, Page 3

LONDON FASHIONS.

Already the season is on the wane, and nrassmoktrs and milliners are beginning to (urn their attention to early autumn cobinures. Goodwood races, the aesson at Ejde end Cowes, claim attention, and for there rendczrous of fashion aonre extremely pretty costumes arc prepared. Mias Roche, of George street, Hanover square, ia making several wbito costumes for Goodwood. Some are in _ brochs satin mixed with soft eilk, others in lace over satin, and for quite young lidiea striped and figured gauzes, and cashmeres trimmed with a profusion of lace. The [ gloves, bonnet, end parasol with these dreseea are all white. Other white dressea are trimmed with breze p&te.menterie and the fashionable “ ficelle ” laee. Bronze brown and a new ahade of red (hire new bricks) are to be popular colours for autumn wear. Mias Roche ia trimming the latter with deep gold Spanish lace, and also using a lace which resembles mud in colour, with good effect. Mdme. Oeoile, of Duke street, Qroavenor square, is naing a new shade of turquoiae for feta dresses in a sort of delicate woollen material between bsge and nun's cloth, which is becoming. She ia also arranging black velvet gauze over plaiied skirls of black and white striped silks with taste and skill, inserting white lace into the bodice. For young ladies' dresses she is making a pretty little mantelet with four capes, reaching below waist. The arms pass through openings, w the whole is drawn smartly towards the front. The shoulder capes are very varied in form. Some are of black or white velvet broche gauze, with a bow and long ends at the back of the left shoulder ; others are entirely of white or cream flowered net, with doable financings of lace at the throat and round the edge. Seme fasten down the right side of the front, and, in addition to a fall ruche of lacs or frayed silk, have a plaiting of lace encircling the throat and reaching almost to the wa'sfc. Some capes are covered with drop buttons of the color of the material placed tolerably close together. Many young ladies wear white lace capes over a low dress for demitoilette. Elderly ladies wear both black and white only over black dresses for evening and also day wear. Several tennis drones are prepared of ordinary Turkey-red twill, made with deep boxplaits in front, fall bodices and paniers, ending in loops at the hick. Others have the skirts of flouaeed red twill, with black Madras muslin paniers and bodice, lined with red. Black edging lace is also used, and when tbia is arranged on a plain skirt at flounces, showing the rod through, the P.-in-oease polonaise is of Turkey red, filing perfectly, with cascade in front, and cuffs of black lace. A black lace “ Patience " hat, lined with red, is worn with these costumes, or a red straw hat with full ruche of black lace. These red costumes will be worn at the seaside, and a few have already been made of floe red twilled flannel, Red watered silk bodice and paniers are worn over a flounced black l&ce skirt’; and also dark blue sateen, with plain high collar and cuffs of red, over a double box plaited blue skirt, piped with rod. Pretty sailor hats of mixed dark blue and red straw, with double folds of dark bins velvet, and an intermediate one of red. A cluster of dark cornflowers and red poppies, usually accompany there toilettes, and sometimes the parasol is of red or dark- blue sateen, covered with red or blue laoe in frills.

Mr Francis Robins, of 40, Maddox street has a specislite in tennis dress worthy of notice. The bodice consists of a tight jersey, buttoning up the back with small metal buttons, of a new white and black ribbed jersey silk, very elastic, fitting closely aud mast perfectly to the figure. A skirt of deep box plaits and paniers in rich grenat twilled flannel is attached to it, and the straight and high collar is grenat. The silk, which is beautifully soft, has a glistening effect, like steel at a distance, and the whole is very light and cool, as well as well as most effective and novel in appearance. For country and seaside wear Mr Robins is making stylish costumes of brown holland, and trimming them with Swiss embroidery of the same color. For still cooler wear, he is using ccrn-colored Tussore, with open-worked embroidery to match. A novelty is ficelle bloude, for use oa rich materials, and principally for evening toilettes. Chine silks are making slow but sore way to popularity, and are combined with Satin Merveilleux or plain soft silk. A costume at Mr Robins’ had the bodiee and drapery of a delicate tinted Chine silk, touches of olive, pink, and bine on u white ironed, arranged over a petticoat of olive satin Merveilleux, with double plaitings, headed by a full ruche. In the place of paniers were two deep-pointed pieces, draped one over the other, falling into the drapery at the back of the bodice and skirt, which was of the Chine silk. The whole was trimmed with “ficelle ” blonde and was very stylish. A stylish coat of cashmere is made with velvet trimming. It resembles tho popular Newmaiket, but is much fuller at tte back, having a great many folds. In front the long sides button back, to show plain or plaited plush underneath. The bodice is boned like a dress, and fits perfectly to the figure. It is intended to be worn with only a skirt underneath.

M. Cording, of Piccadilly, has waterproof tweed coats in several colors and shades, and also white mackintoshes for ladies, which fit almost as closely as the Newmarket coats, and much resemble them in form, being open up the back with buttons. There are triple capes fitted on to them. Messrs Benjamin and Son, of Ulster House, Conduit street, have brought out a new material, “The Queen” by name, made of si;k and wool, that ia, wool with a Bilk warp. It has all the graceful softness of foulard, and the firmness and durability of alpaca. It is of double width and inexpensive, and to be had in brown, drab, grey, plum, claret, and green. Wo have seen several pretty costumes made of it, Messrs Benjamin and Son having introduced into thair establishment a c ranch dressmaker who understands the drapery and arrangement of skirts, where tailors are apt to fail. For travelling and tailor-made costumes for Scotland, many Cheviots are being used, and tho bodices are still invstly of the habit order, with one or m sro plaited loanees beneath tho drapery of the tunic. Soft check silks are being mixed with dark Troollen stuffs. Tbs material is also in favor for dust cloaks, quite superseding the alpacas and other thin fabrics hitherto used; they are

lighter, mere graceful, and slip on and off better.

Many quaint ornaments have been introduced of late, and adopted by young ladies. First, the brooch combining a flower holder. A spring at the back of the brooch requires gentle pressure, when it opens to receive the popular floral sprays, which this season are wild flowers, such a* honeysuckle, thistles, cowslips, peppier, marguerites, or carnations and miniature sunflowers. Then there is the Great Paul brooch in silver, and the boating brooch in silver, representing crossed oars, attached by a sailor’s knot in blue ; and the shooting brooch,a silver horseshoe,with “Good Luck ”in the centre. But quaintness is not confined to the inexpensive passing ornaments of the day. White tuckers are now giving place to black la.ee ones, and it is no untuned sight to see these black tuckers enlivened with a row of flies and spiders in brilliant diamonds. In lace odds and ends there is a new ruS called the Raleigh, of hcney-combed muslin, with a fall of lace. It is not intended to wash, and is made up moderately. The Alsace cap of gold tinsel lace “ ficelle " late and cream, is novel. It is worn bv young ladies for evening or morning. In black lacc it is worn by older ladies. The front of the cap is in the form of a wide bow. and is very becoming. Mrs Asser, Burlington Arcade, is the maker or these. She has a new muslin apron, with one-half in “ gauged" fulness and the other in long, fl-.t p'aits, edged round with less. The bib has a trimming attached to it, which passes round the throat, and fornjs a ruff. The Newmarket ties are now made in black lace, with gold-headed pins crossed in the centre, and also in fancy folded eilk or ribbon, with three imitation hooks and eyes, hooked together, at distances down the centre Small fancy- bordered handkerchiefs Lave recently begun to peep out of a small pocket on the light or left hip. Large black chip hats, lined with black satin, with the brim apparently tied to the crown on one side,with a large bow of black satin ribbon, have a cluster of strawberries falling forwards. Deep red straw Princess bonnets hare a wreath of red currants in front and a smalls* one drooping over the edge and on to the hairat the back. Many of these currant bonnet*, are composed of tiny frills of deep red lace. Pale pink end laco bonnets with cherries, ami cream lace ones with grapes, are beginning to make their appearance, and arc light tad pretty. Large tailor hats, with three shaded feather tips culled forward, are much worn.