LONDON FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2593, 29 July 1882, Page 3

LONDON FASHIONS.

May 20th was a gay day in Hyde Park and Botten Bow. Ihe meet of the Ooaohing Club in the morning attracted large numbers of pedestrians and fquestrians, who afterwards repaired to the Itotr. In the afternoon the bean monde congregated at Hnrlingham, where polo was being played. The toilettei were marvellous in variety, make, and color*, nothing being apparently too bizarre to display. Tioa of pale terracotta, saffron, or nasturtium oolor, wero worn with blaok costumes. Grey in every shade appears the popular color of the season, from the pale silver shade to the new dark-blua grey called Eleotrio or Telegraph. Tho latter is beooming to all, and is trimmed o-ly with its own color in moire or satin. The paler shades are trimmed with steol passemonterie and frills of fioello laoe. The bonnet or hat is of ficelle lace, over a steel crown or a white or grey ohip, with lace strings and groy aigrette. Blaok velvet striegs to bonnets are much worn, especially with steel and geld beaded bonnets. Hats appear to be more popular than bonnets, and the round Matadors, with soft feathery rosettes of delicate colors, are most generally adopted. All are bound with velvet, but jet or steel lace is sometimes arranged over the velvet, and some have the crowns beaded. Black and white straw are equally fashionable. A few blaok lace sailorshape hats were to be seen on Saturday, with a large bow of velvet or moire a little to the left side, placed high,

[ and a spray of fruit or flow.rs on the brim in front. A few very yonng ladies wore whit* straw, with a half wreath of flowers and half rucJio of " ficelle " laee bordering the crown. I Velvet is still greatly worn, and brown and sapphire-blue in particular. One costume consisted of brown velvot pointed bodice and bos-plaited flounced skirt, with a very wide sash of gold-colored satin merveilleux passed round end tied in a large bow at the back. The hat was the Duchess of Devonshire

shape, with sweeping brown feather* tonchicg the left shoulder, and turned l up on the right side with a gold aigrette. A grey costume oonsisted of deep kiKed moire skirt reaching to the hips, rows of ganging above, and a long-tail coat of eubmere, with. double-breasted front; silver embroidery and silver buttons. The "jtbot" and re files were of " ficelle" lace, and the bonnet of the same, with grey moire strings and bow. Some very elegant costumes were of satin fonlard of steel-grey, profusely trimmed wiib. black lace, looped up in paniers over dark-iron grey or black velvet skirts. [A very ninjuiar costume was cf black satin merveilleux. trimmed with

jet; the paniers were of bluck Spanish laee, and also the upper parr, of tr-e sleeves, which came from the side of the rook, over the shoulders, end were appsre->tly tucked into the satin sleeves, which fell over the lace. Tho bonnet, of black lace and jet, had shaded pick feathers at one side The pale shade of terra eotta in ca'hmere with bronis trimming is becoming a favorite tint; but it is somewhat trying. The ri?h*r shade of red brocza is more becoming. The newest capes have tabs of satin ribbon on each shoulder, ends of broad velvet rtbbcn attached to the waistband at equal distanoes, catching up the tunic, is a novel style of trimming; there ere from four to five lengths, a little over half ■ yard in length. Brown velvet over pale colors is most worn. The waistband is also of velvet. Feari or gold headed pins are to . be seen everywhere; they pin back the bonnet string bows under the chin, the larger bows on the crowns, and are pu', into the lace cravats, and ciso the backs of bonnets where the strings meet. Many bonnets and also hats have lace arranged round the crown, with the farcy edge meeting, fastened together with these pine. The gloves warn ever the slocves are not nearly so popular as those worn underneath, as the fashion of the half-short sleeves and falling lace tIS. -a is so much prettier. When linen enffs are worn there are lace frills added where thay fasten to match the jabot in front of the collar. Many ladies wear collar stu "a, e.nd may be glad to hear of Dobeli's new patent; it is telescopic, so is drawn out before putlisg in or out of the collar, and is thou praised down so that it remains fi.m, and "cannot sink into the neck as ordinary studs are apt to do. Some of the West-ecd tradesmen have just introduced several novelties in the evening dress slippers. The latest are those of satin embroidered on the toes in an sitistic design in coloured beads of two shades, from dark to light, with daintily-made bows entwined with beads. In two shades of pink, blue, and gold the effect is particularly good. The slippers are in whits and black satin, and all delicate shades of colour; also in bronzeleather, which is being worn with evening dress. Black leather slippers have as many as four colours in beads, wotted on in taste. For plainer wear there is the Queen Anne shoe in patent leather, with small black bows. The light walking shoes are cut very high and plain up the instep, and have two strap* across, fastened in the centre with a black or steel buckle. These are called the Old England shoes. In tennis shoes the latest aremade of soft Levant leather, laced np with ribbon on the instep, and are very neat and becoming to the foot. The thick walking boots and high shoes are made like brogues, of calf leather and Levant leather, with thick soles projecting beyond the shoe. The boots} are high up the leg, and are laced np the front; the heel is square and of tolerable height. Children are beginning to wear white sects and Btockingß, but it will be some time befo?&*""' adults follow their example. The season's new stockings have little that is novel in them. Open work stockings, embroidered on self colors, are most worn in the best silk, and are to be had in every tone, and happily, also, in the same colorings in Lisle thread, a third of the price, and often answering the same purpose. Occasionally good stockings tfno«r oolored embroidery, and the novelty is that these are sometimes worked round the leg and not np. Another new thing are the large sprays of floss silk embroidered in satin stitch. Balbriggan blaok hosiery with white feat are universally worn, and dark colored hose have the same advantage. Some cf the Balbriggan: are embroidered on the centre of the foot, and have open work at the side. There are also many novelties and specialties in artistic millinery. Some very pretty hate are being made of ficslle coloured strew rimmed with the laje, and delicate*tinted blush roses nettling on one side. Other hats of gold-colored straw are respectively trimmed with myrtle green and ruby velvet, with feathers to match. A brown draws silk bonnet of the close Princesee shape has the brim raised in front to show a full ruche 01 gold lace. The same lace peeps out at the back, and at tho side 'vas a thaded goldcoloured aigrette. Fcr very drsesy occasions, a bonnet embroidered in stars of mother-of-pearl, with strings or white crimped Indian crepe, and aigrette cf msraboufcs, powdered with minute pearls, was very stylith. A bonnet of folded " fieells " guipure lace had yellow velvet buttercups in front, _ brown velvet strings, and aigrette at one side. A straw bonnet, bound with green velvet, and strings to match, bed a band of "eye " peaoock feathers in (rent, entirely of coloured beads. This was a epeoialite, and the effect beautiful. One fashionable milliner is arranging colored Iccliin silk and gold embroidery as bows in front of gvild-oolcred straw bonnets with velvet strir>?s. She it also embroidering the crowns cf flat bonnets with narrow gold or lilvar braid, commencing from the centre aid working round. The flower bonneis are pretty and becoming, and have fnll ruches of pile-oolored lacs iu matching the strings. Tho strings in many bonnets have beaded net added on full at the ends. In evening head-dresses there are marabouts powdered with tiny pearls, to be worn at the eida cf the head. ; iatia bowf, drawn together sit tho ends with pearls forming tassels, with spray of white lilac or same email fliwcr in tho centre. Morning and evening caps sra elso made a epecislite, and jabots of eilk muslin and lace, with »pra»s and clusters of velvet flowers of great beauty. The shaded vio tts are particularly beautiful.

Bquare neckerchiefs of bright cab; are likely to be ovc-n more worn as the season advances; for if the sua shines hot and bright, mantles sill be dispensed vritb, and polonaise paoie* bodices will be ttotxi without any covering. The reason of this is that the dreesmakers' and tailors' art was never oarried to greater perfection—the fit of fashionable dresses nowadays is all that cculd te desired ; wrinkles, creases, &:., beve disappeared entirely, and by reason of beiog well pstticoatod and well corseted, the result is marvels of excellent among well dressed women. Parasols ere thiß stasou quite ss large as tho en tons can or sun umbrellas, and the handles are of corresponding their form being rustic in style, and of the hooked or forked elopes. Light wood is more in vogue for thera than any othsr substance, and fashion cecress a knot of ribbon or a bouquet fastened at one side cf the handle. Che broche satis covers are in very great favor, and so r.re the satin covers that form a lining to Spanish lace. " Fioello" guipure is to be noted on tho newtßb which are generally sel eted to correfpond to some extent with the costnme worn .-it the time, and the color forms a goad background for a brighter one. An example will illustrate meaning. A walking dress of tiro hiitrojj* tuscore, the skiit trircmid with three narrow flounoea separated by "ficelle" ; overtkirt embroidered with pep;--!-:.- and arranged to form two paniers. Taisars bodice with pointed waistcoat of poppy-re 3 faille, and trimmed with " ficelle" guipure. Bonnet of " ficelle" lacs with a large bunch of poppies and buds at the side. Parasol c.verrd with frills of "ficello" lace, with. & bunch of poppies at th 6 top of the stick and another bt the handl3 cf natual wood. Susde glevzs to the elbow.—" The Qusen."