LONDON FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2588, 24 July 1882, Page 4

LONDON FASHIONS.

(" Queen," May 20th.)

Saturday last was a gay day in Hyde Park and Botten Row. The meeting of the Coaching .Club iu the morning attracted large numbers of pedestrians and equestrians, who afterwards ropaired to the Bow. In the afternoon the beau inonde congregated at Hurlingham, where polo was being played, The toilettes were marvellous injjvariety, make, and colours, nothing being apparently too bizarre to display. Ties of pale terra cotto, saffron, or nasturtium oolour, were worn with black oostumes. Grey in every shade appears the popular colour of |-.te season, from the pale silver shade to the new dark-blue grey called " eleotrio " or " telegraph." The latter is becoming to all, and is trimmed only with its own colour, in moire or satin. The paler shades are trimmed with Steele passementerie and frills of " fioelle" laoe. The bonnet or hat is of " fioelle " laoe, over a steel orown, or a white or grey chip, with laoe strings and grey aigrette. Black velvet strings to bonnets are much worn, especially with steel and gold beaded bonnets. Hats appear to bs more popular than bonnets; and the round Matadors, with soft feathery rosettes of delicate colors, are most generally adopted. All are bound with velvet, but jet or steel lace is sometimes arranged over the velvet, and some hare the crowns beaded. Black and white straw are equally faihionable. A few blaok laoe sailor-shape bats were to be seen on Saturday, with a large bow of velvet or moire a little to the left side, placed high, and a spray of fruit or flowers on the brim iu front. A few very young ladies wore white straw, with a half wreath of fliwers and half ruche of "fioelle" lace bordering the orown. Velvet is still greatly worn, and brown and sapphire-blue in particular. One costume consisted of brown velvet pointed bodioe and box-plaited flounced skirt, with a very wide sash of gold colored satin Merveilleux passed round and tied in a large bow at the baok. The hat was the Duohess of Devonshire shape, with sweeping brown feathers touching the left shoulder, and turned up on the right side with a gold aigrette. A grey costume consisted of deep-kilted moire skirt reaching to the hips, rows of gaugiDg above, and a long-tail ooat of cashmere, with doublebreasted front ; silver embroidery and silver buttons. The "jabot" and ruffles were of "fioelle" lace, and the bonnet of the same, with grey moire strings and bow. Some very elegant oestumes were of satin foulard j of steel-grey, profusely trimmed with blaok >

laoe, looped up in paniers over dark iron-graj or Mack velvet skirts. A very singular costume was of blaok satin merveillenx, trimmed with jet ; the paniers wen of blaok Spanish lace, and also the upper part of the sleeves, wniob come from the aide of the neak, over the shoulders, and were apparently tucked into the satin sleeves, which fell over the lace. The bonnet, of blaok laoe and jet, had shaded pink feather* at one fide. The pale shade of terracotta in cashmere with'bronze tramming, ii becoming a favorite tint: but it is somewhat trying. Tha rioher shade of rod I bronse is more becoming. The no if est capes have tabß of satin ribbon on each shoulder. Ends of broad velvet ribbon attaohed to the waistband at equal distances, catching up the tunio, is a novel stjle of trimming ; there are from four to flvo lengths, a little over half a yard in length. Brown velvet over pale colors is most worn. The waistband is also of velvet. = Pearl or gold hesdedpios are to bo seen everywhere ; they pin back the bonnet string bows under the chin, the larger bows on the orowna, and are put into the laoe cravats, and also the baoke of the bonnets where the strings meet. Many bonnets, and also hats, have laoe arranged round the crown,

with the fancy edge meeting, fastened together with these pins. The gloves worn over the aleeves are not nearly so popular as those worn underneath, as the fashion of the half-short sleeves and falling laoe ruffles is so muoh prettier. When linen cuffs are worn, there are laoe frills added where they fasten to match the-jabot in front .of the collar. Many ladies wear oollar studs, and may be glad to hear of Dobell s new patent; it is telescopic, so is drawn out before putting in or out of the collar, and is then pressed down so that it remains firm, and cannot sink into the neck, as ordinary studs are apt to do. Peter Yapo, ladies' boot and shoe maker, Sloane street,, Knightsbridge, has **™* l novelties in evening dress slippers. The latest are those of satin, embroidered on the toss in an artistie design in ooloured beads of two shades, fronvdark to light, with d.iati'y made bows entwined with beads. In two shades of pink, blue, and gold the effeot is particularly good. The slippers are in white and black satin, and all delicate shades of colour ; blso in bronxe leather, whioh is being worn with evening dress. Blaok leather slippers have as many as four colours in beads worked on in taste. For plainer wear, there is the Queen Anne shoe in patent leather, with email black bow*. The light walking shoes are out very 'high and plain up the instep, and have two straps aoross, fastened in the centre with ,a blaok or steel buokle. This is a speciality of Mr Yapp's, and is called by him the Old,England shoe. In t«nnia shoes, the latest are made of soft Levant leather, laoed up with ribbon on the instep, end are very neat and becoming to the foot. The thick walking boots and high shoes are made like brogues, of oalf leather and Levant leather, with thick soles projecting beyond the shoes. The boots are high up the leg and are laced up the front, the heel is iquareand of tolerable height. Children are beginning to wear wbite socks and stookingsj ibutit will be some tisae before adults follow their example. The season's new stockings have but little that is novel in them. Openwork stockings, embroidered on self- colours, are most worn in the best silk, and are to be had in every tone, and happily also in the same colorings in Lisle thread, a third of the price, and often answering the same purpose. Occasionally good stookings show colored embroidery;; and the novelty is that these are sometimes worked round the leg and not up. Another new thing are the large sprays of floss silk embroidered in satin stiteh. Balbriggan Mack hosiery with white feet are Juniversally worn, and darkcolored hose have the same advantage. Some of the Balbeiggans are embroidered on the centre of the foot, and have open work at the side. Miss Burnand, of Bußsex place, _ South Kensington, has a great many novelties' and specialities in artistic millinery. She is U3ing the fashionable "ficelle" lace, with good effeot on both hatß and bonnets. So ne hate are of " fioelle " colored straw, trimmed with the laoe, and delioate-tinted blush roses nestling on one side. Other hats of goldoolored straw, are respectively trimmed with myrtle green and ruby velvet, with feathers to match. A brown drawn silk bonnet of the close Princesse shape, has the brim raised in front to show a full ruohe of gold lace. Tha same lace peeps out at the back, and at the side was a shaded gold - oolored aigrette. For very dressy oooasions, a bonnet embroidered in stars of mother-of-pearl, with strings of white crimped Indian crepe, and aigrette of marabouts, powdered with minute pearl?, was very stylish, A bonnet of folded " ficelle " guipure lace, had yellow velvet buttercups in front, brown velvet strings, and aigrette at one side. A straw bonnet, bound with green velvet, and strings to matoh, had a band of " eye " peaoook feathers in front, entirely of oolored beads. The was a speoialite, and the effeot beautiful. Miss Burnand is arranging colored Indian silk and gold embroidery as bows in front of gold-colored straw bonnets with velvet strings. She is also embroidering the crowns of flat bonnets with narrow gold or silver braid, commencing from the centre, and working round. The flower bonnets are pretty and beooming, and have full ruches of pale-colored lace in front, matohing the strings. The strings of many bonnets have beaded net added on full at the ends. In evening headdresses there are marabouts powdered with tiny pearls, to be worn at the side of the head; satin bows, drawn together at the ends with pearls forming tassels, with spray of white lilac or some small flower in the centre. Morning and evening oapa are also made a Bpecialite, &n\ jabots of silk, muslin and laoe, with sprays and clusters of velvet flowers of great beauty. The shaded violets are particularly beautiful. Square neckerohiefs of bright ooiour are likely to be even more worn as the season advances; for if the sun shines hot and bright, mantles will bo dispensed with, and polonaise panier bodices will be worn without any covering! The reason of this is that the dressmakers' and tailors' art were never parried to greater perfection—the fit of fashionable dresses nowadays is all that could be desired; wrinkles, creases, &c, have disappeared entirely, and by reason of being wellpetticoated and welloorseted, the result is marvels of excellent fitting among welldressed women.

Parasols are this season quite as large as the en tons oas or tun umbrellas, and the handles are of corresponding dimensions, their form being ruatio in style, and of the hooked or forked shape;. Light wood is more in vogue for them than any other substance, and fashion deoreei a knot of ribbon or a bouquet fattened at one side of the handle. The broohe satin covers are in very great favor, and so ore the satin covers that form a lining to Spanish laca, " Fioelle " guipure is to be noted on the newest parasols, whioh are generally selected to correspond to some extent with the oostume worn at the time, and the color forms a good background for a brighter one. An example will illustrate our meaning. A walking dress of fine lustrous tnssore, the skirt trimmed with three narrow flounces separated by "ficelle" guipure; overakirt embroidered with poppies and arranged to form two paniers. Tussore bodice, with pointed waistcoat of poppy-red faille, and trimmed with " ficelle " guipure. Bonnet of " fioelle " lace, with a large bunoh of poppies and buds at the side. Parasol covered with frills of " ficelle " lace, with a bunoh of poppies at the top of the stiok and another at the handle of natural wood. Suede gloves to the elbow. Mr Joseph Liohtenfeld, of 39, Great Oasf.le street, Oxford Circus, has introduced a new headdress. It is designed to satisfy physiognomical as well as fashionable exigencies, and possesses this peculiar advantage, [the waved hair may be regulated to suit the different forms as well as the different expressions of the fac». Lines are now studied by skilful hairdressers, and the hair is arranged to follow as well as to improve the form of the head. This new Wavelet headdress is one of the weightless kind, whioh are momentarily adjusted and cover thin or grey hair. It consists of wavelets of hair whioh are supported on and raised by a bed of tiny ourls—a great improvement on the projecting fringe of fluffy hair so long worn; it forms at the same time a soft shade to the forehead and is light and delicate in cffeot without hard or decided lines. Hair crops in large waves has daoidedly taken the place of the exaggerated frizzed fronts to whioh oar eyes have now been so long and sometimes painfully aooustomed. The wavelet headdress will therefore be welcomed by those who desire a change for the better on their present style of coitf-ire. 'fioelle' lace, a novelty of the aaEson, is very popular in London. It is to be sjon on bonnets, on dresses, on collars and on parasols, despite its oolor of coarse flax. But it in no way dethrones Spanish laoe, whioh is most popular on mantles and on evening dresses, the Granada lace being used extensively for bonnets.