PARIS FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIV, Issue 2548, 8 June 1882, Page 4

PARIS FASHIONS.

[" Queen," April Bfch/|

During the last ten days sermons and dinners have been the principal occupations of the gay world in Paris, also the opening of the Horse Show, whioh event hat replaced Longchamps as a first exhibition of spring fashions.

The Duchess de la Tremoille has taken a superb mansion in the Avenue Gabriel, and last week she gave a house-warming, in the form of a ceremonious dinner, followed by a large reception. The conservatories are magnificent, and the immense salons are filled with artistic treasures collected by Count Duohatel, the duchess's father, and at one time a favorite minister of King Louis Philippe. The Duke d'Aumale was present at the dinner, so were the Duke and Duohess -de Laroohefoucauld-Bisaccia, the duohess wearing pale blue satin, trimmed with old point d'Angleterre, and superb diamonds. The Visoountess de Oourval was in ivory satin and gold lace—a Louis XV. dress with paniers and train, and a high standing frill of gold laoe round the throat. The Duohess de la Tremoille wore a Louis XVI. toilette of olaret velvet and satin, trimmed with old Yaitian point. The Duchoissea de Maille and de Laroche-foucauld-Bisaooia both receive every Sunday evening, and their salons are filled with almost the same guests. At the last reception Mme Andre (nee Nelie Jacquemant) wore white satin, with a high lace fraino worked with pearls ; the Countess de Nairmont was in pink satin, trimmed with roses without foliage ; the Viscountess de Kergorlay wore a combination of ruby velvet and pink satin, mode with largo paniers. The Marquise da Beauvoir's toilette was exquisite, composed of flowered brocade, and Pompadour in style; ■he is one of our leading elegantes, and wears her fair hair in tho Louis XV. style. She has certainly brought the Pompadour toilettes once more into voguo.

The toilette) worn at the Conservatoire of Musio are frequently very remarkable. At the last performance several of the young girls from fourteen to seventeen were very piotnresquely attired. Mdllo. da Morell wore • skirt and jacket of the new ficelle-colored cloth, a hat to match, shaded ficelle and red feathers; Mdllo. de Brandt wore a Clarissa Harlowe hat with black plume, her magnificent fair hair falling to her waist; a large square guipure collar; Mdllo Trubert likewise in a square collar, a Gainsborough hat laden with feathers, and a grey dress. The Countess de Fitzjames wore one of tho fashionable pointed pelerines in white guipure over a dark dress ; her small bonnet appeared to be composed of two birds united at the top; the black laoe strings were tied into a butterfly bow without ends ; her immense fan was painted, the subject being three large swallows, and a flight of smal; onea with the motto, "Nous sommeg revenuet." The Fresident'i box was occupied 'Joy Mdlle Duhamel, who was in dark bine, guipnre collar and cuffs a la Van Dyok; felt hat with long plume; Mile, de Gourlet, in a oloth dress fastened at the side, a narrow white jabot, and a gold dog collar neoklct large hat, with feathers. Mm». de Qourlet her mother, wore a striped satin dress, an old gold bonnet, long Suede gloves. The Minister del Beaux Arts box was occupied by Mme. Jules Ferry, in black dress and bonnet to match, literally covered with jet, and looking very distingue.

Mme. Waddington, the ex-minister's wife, was alio present, in a splendid Indian Cashmere mantle trimmed with fur. and a garnet bonnat, with old gold satin intermixed. The Countess de Gramedo wore a small black tulle bonnet bou'.llone, &nd studded with large gold pastilles, toe strings forming a jabot on the bodice. Mme de Wendel, her sister-in-law, was a. »tri;-sd velvet and satin o.istume ; a black velvet bonnet, with jetted lace, and a visit© cove ad with embroidery and jot. The most successful toilettes at the rcconl dinners have been as follows: -Mme. de I Boaille in grey damask ; the skirt made with perpendicular bouillones, separated with moire bands of a darker shade ; coat bodice of damask with moire waistcoat. Her daughters Miles de Bonille, in white barege of supple texturo, the skirt covered with narrow-kilted flounces, elbow sleeves, square bodices, r.nd paniers ; a oordon of gardenias and natural beath-r crossed the bodice ; wreath to match in the hair; a silver butterfly in the flowers ; lonz buttonless Suede gloves, and white net chemisette. The effeot was very youthful and fresh. . Mme. de Joufceux has worn a most beautiful dinner toilette, consisting of a Sevres blue velvet train and bodioe, over a pale blue satin petticoat; the sides of the bodioe lengthened into buttlemented pans at eaoh Bide of the skirt. A l»rgo upright velvet collar formed a background to the head ; open, square-cut bodice, with gathered satin waistcoat, a oordon of natural pink primroses and violets erossed the bodice from the shoulders to the waist; a thick silk cord held a blue fan painted with pink flowers; pink silk stockings, blue satin shoes, and all the velvet edge of the dress finished off with rioh white guipure turned up flat en revere. Some handsome afternoon visiting dresses have been worn during the week. The Oountoss de Brotts-Thurin {nee de Pontoves) wore black damask, made with paniers; Indian cashmere shawl pelisse ; a drawn tulle bonnet, spotted with gold, and a red aigrette. Heavy mantlea «re either left in the antechamber, or ullowei to slip from the shoulders of the wearer while the call is being paid. Viscountess Geoffrey de Kergorlay wore a youthful short costume of sealbrown vicuna, draped over a Pekin skirt, yellow silk striped with brown satin, and the four kiltings so arranged that the light and dark stripes were visible with every movement o f the wearer; waistooat gathered to the throat, of Pekin to matoh ; amall brown velvet bonnet, studded with large brown facotted beads ; brown velvet flowers, with yellow hearts ; wide strings, tied in a large butterfly bow, and without ends; plain sealskin jacket. Viscountess de Bainneville (a Bussian lady who married a Frenoh senator) wore a short oostume of dark blue cloth made as a loDg redingote-polonaise, fitting very closely, and fastened in front with brandeburge end superb appliques of passementerie ; an almost imperceptible bonnet of dark blue velvet, with a bouquet of pale eglantine, and an aigrette and feather to matoh. Mme de Lhomond was in grey striped moire and satin dross, over a grey satin petticoats ; a pretty white lace bonnet studded with large flies (a now enamel ornament of brilliant coloring) ; the lace strings were fastened with similar flies, and the small bag muff in lace was likewise studded with these brilliant inscots. Mme. Torres, one of our leaders of fashion, was in a toilette of lin de vin satin worked with beads of the same colour, the small plush capote likewise matohing. Her tulle veil was lie de vin in colour, and it was otedded oil over with beads; the short but wide velvet strings were fastened with two small paste lizirds j a plush muff lined with pink satin, a large bow on the oent-.e with two other paste or sli'aas iizirds more important in size. The Countess de Pourtales was enveloped in a pala vart de gris satin pelisse that entirely concealed her dreßS ; an enormous satin bow was fastened below the back of the waist; a white lace bonnet with delicate pinkish yellow roses and the softest leaves ; a bonqu?t to matoh fastened the mantle at the throat with a verb de gris ribbon bow. There are several new trimmings, although Spanish lace continues the most popular; but there ave flue guipures and flexible satin cords forming lacs designs with gimp medallions introduced. Later on the embroideries in open designs will be used on mantlea, although for the present they are only Been on dresses. The new pa»«eme» l eries are also made of flexible satin oord, and there are solid jet passementeries. Silvered lace on black net is in vogue, and the sleek ohenille that looks like sealskin is preferred for fringe to the ordinary kind, and it wears better. The ribbons used for trimming are mostly moire, and are in three widths—the very broad for the bow on the tournure, the twoinoh wide for bow and long ends at the throat, and the half-inch ribbans for loops to be inserted in laoe jabots, &o.

Mme. Bodrignes, on the Boulevard" Montmartre, is making three styles of dresses. The " Trotteuse," for outdoor morning wear, in dark plaid woollen, in which blue, green, grenat, or brown predominates; the small upper skirt is amply draped, with a wide breadth knotted under the basque, and falling on the under skirt, the edge of which is trimmed with a narrow bonillonne of dark satin; the bodice, with small short point, opens over a high nankeen waistcoat, and for going out a vicuna jacket ia added of the dominant color of the costume. The jaoket is half-fitting, and very simple. The calling or carriage dress is also short, but more elegant; it is of satin sublime, either peacook blue, moes greeD, or velvet, studded with small red pear-shaped dots ; a velvet bouillionne round the skirt, crossed draperies, pointed bodice, opening squareover a_ guimpe of eoru lace lined with white satin ; the small demi-fibting paletot is in Ottoman velvet, a sort of thiok Sioilienne of the color of the dress, trimmed with Indian palms in passementerie. For dinner toilettes, Mme. iiodrigues is making some exquisite cream satin ones, draped all over with Flemish lace, fastened with three large round bows without ends, one pink, one pale green, and one red, and these are deftly introduced into the fouillis of laoe whioh, be it understood, is in wide breadth?, and not in flounoes. The bodioe is a large Marquis coat in dahlia damask, forming a point in front, and at the back two long straight but wide tails, lined with oream satin ; at the sides there are small bows to match thoio on the skirt. Tho ooat opens in front over a high guimpe of Flemish Jase And deroi long sleeves. These toilettes are simple, yet extremely elegant.