LONDON FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIII, Issue 2348, 12 October 1881, Page 4

LONDON FASHIONS.

[From the c> Queen.”] It is curious to notice tho prevalence of pink gowns this season. Casting a cursory glance along the Bow on a sunshiny morning, the preponderance of this bright shade is quite striking, more especially after a continuance of sombre, neutral tints which held their own for a lengthy period. It is said that so great is the demand for pink ginghams and zephyr cloths, that the supply is hardly equal to the emergency. The pretty drawn bodices look well in these soft materials, and is the most fashionable mode of making them ; but jacket bodices, with a trimming of lace or the new bolland embroidery, are also worn. Sometimes a black bonnet with drapery of black lace at the throat, and a black waistband, tones down the brightness of coloring ; or again we see even tho parasol pink the only softening effect being given by a large white hat and a jabot of lace. Blue greys are also very popular in tho soma materials. White is muon worn,

and has superseded in great measure eoru and cream-ooloor, though the latter is more becoming to some complexions, and therefore still a little in favor. For a young girl in her early freshness nothing can bo prettier than an entire costume of some soft white fabric ; and oven tho hat and parasol should bo en stdie. Old-fashioned buckles are once more in favor ; in fact we hove gone back to many of tho fashions of our grandmothers, with the modern taste and skill to perfect them. Artificial flowers approach nearer and nearer to perfection. Wo have seen, for instance, the delicate elder flower faithfully reproduced, and mingled with a few sprays of honeysuckle so naturally as almost to defy detection. Flush flowers and leaves are muon used in rich shades of terra-cotta and feuilles mortes, and are most effective. Spanish lace quite takes the lead in laoa for trimming to dresses, mantles, bonnets, and parasols this season ; and it is a coincidence worthy to note that the Spanish mantilla—tho classic shape that plays such an important part in the national dress of Spain, should onoe more be in vogue. It comes opportunely, for by reason of its pioturesqueness it is well adapted to tho present style of dress, and supplies happily that want of “ something for the shoulders ” generally required, even in hot weather. Tho Spanish mantilla is a profitable investment, for it never completely goes out of fashion in England. For the opera or theatre, the veil which is usually worn folded back, is thrown over the head, and proves highly becoming when fastened with a rose du Boi below tho left ear and on the right shoulder and vice versa. Real Barcelona mantillas are costly, and the imitations made at',Nottingbam and Calais lack tho silky soft effect of real lace. Messrs Hayward, of Oxford street, have, however, introduced tho Blonde de Grenade, mado at Lyons of beautiful bright silk, and which so closely reeembles real laoe in design, in texture, and softness of drapery, that only B practised eye can detect the difference. The “ Madrilene" is gathered in the popular manner round the neck, and although trimmed with a flounce at the back like the mantilla, it closes at the throat and has scarf ends in front. Tho “Grenada” is a similar shape, but with a handsome vandykod jetted collar and without tho deep flounce at the back, which renders it more suitable for young figures. Costumes for country wear are beginning to occupy attention. For the seaside they are te be tolerably simple, of pink and blue zephyr cloth, of pale shades, of oream oatmeal cloth of very fine texture, soft light llama or nun’s oloth, and dark-grounded tartan-patterned linens. For fetes and garden parties some of tho costumes are very elaborate, and very drossy. Many of the muslin dresses are composed of innumerable small flounces, each edged with laoe and finely gathered over a pale pink, blue, or yellow silk petticoat, with a broad scarf of surah, of the same shade, tied in wide loops at the back ; the bodices are much gathered and profusely trimmed with laoe ; and over some are worn the daintiest of laoe and muslin capes. Broad sashes, riohly embroidered at tho ends, of white or cream muslin, are worn over pale pink muslin, as well as white and oream dresses. The last novelty in parasols is to have them in velvet. One lately seen in ruby velvet had a large gold embroidered bee on one division. Another novelty was of oream lace in narrow flounces, with different sized Brazilian flies and beetles scattered over it among the folds. Some of the now long gloves have slits out in them, either at the top or half-way up, into which colored ribbon or broad gold braid about an inch in width is inserted. The long silk gloves, with only two buttons at the wrist, and the Lisle thread, are strongly recommended for travelling. They are mado in all colors, especially serviceable dust colors. Every change in the fashion of bonnets necessitates a corresponding alteration in the manner of dressing the hair, and at Mr Clarke's establishment in Sloane square this rather important matter has been made a subject of careful consideration. Tho prevailing style for tho present season is to have the hair arranged in flat wavy curls all over the head, the greatest mass or fullness being on the top and in the front; this suits the most fashionable French bonnets, and without doubt adds greatly to a youthful appearance. There is a marked improvement in the way in which the present arrangement preserves the contonr of the head, and does increase its size out of all proportion to tho figure of the owner, as has been the case with some fashions. To accommodate those ladies whose own hair does not lend itself readily to the ezigenoies of fashion, Mr and Miss Clarke have perfected some beautiful specimens of artificial fringes, postiohes, tresses, &0,, which are so cleverly contrived as to defy detection. Fringes, as now worn, are made upon the finest gauze, or upon a foundation of human hair, this reduces the weight to a mere nothing, os as each hair is knotted in separately, the effect is vary natural. The foundation is mado to fit tho head, and the fringe terminates at the ears. Any lady wishing to wear a fringe, can do so without the inconvenience of cutting her own hair. We saw one entire covering for the head, a curled postiohe, and curled and waved front and fringe, the weight of which did not exceed 3oz. We mention this, as lightness is a great desideratum in anything to be worn on the head, and to have achieved it in such a degree reflects great credit on the maker. Admirable coverings for bald places or thin partings are made on very small foundations, with long hair depending from them, which can be dressed with the natural hair, and effectually conceal any little defect. The hair, os now worn, is quite a sufficient headdress, and nothing is more elegant or becoming. Mias Olarbe is in constant attendance at the establishment in Sloane square, and as she studies the face of each client, she is successful in suiting every style, and in supplying little deficiencies in an artistic manner. The taste for returning to the fashions of our ancestors appears to be on the increase, and that important finish to a toilette, the fan, has not escaped the notice of those who study the comma il faut. Fans are of great antiquity, and have passed through many gradations of size and construction. The Reman ladies used fans which were composed of feathers fastened to a handle; these were very large, and must have been unwieldly. The Italians used fans somewhat like the modern ones in shape. Spain has always been the country par excellence for the use of fans, and ladies are seldom seen without them. It is considered now in our own country such an essential article of full-dress adornment, that we cannot refrain from quoting again the well-known words of command as given by Addison, which express the different modes of using fans, according to circumstances. They may be useful in guiding the uninitiated to the proper management of them Handle your fane,” “ Unfurl your fans,” “Discharge your fans,” “ Ground your fans," “Recover your fans,” “Flutter your fans.” A Spanish lady pronounced that Addison had described the “ exorcise ” as perfectly as if ho had been a drill sergeant:—“Handling,” “unfurling,” “ fluttering,” &0., there is no need to tell ladies, may be made most expressive adjuncts to conversation, and add not a little to charms and fascinations. Among the revivals which characterise the present day, we notice a decided preference for very large fans. We recently paid a visit to Messrs Perrier and Go., 205, Regent street, and noted the size of the new designs ; they vary from 15in to 20in in length, and may oven exceed that. Ebony sticks are most in demand. One ebony stick, mounted with cardinal satin, trimmed with black and gold laoe, was very handsome; another ebony stick, with black satin cover, had a paraquet made of the actual feathers of the bird most cleverly applied to the black satin. A stick of clear amber tortoiseshell (very rare), inlaid with gold, mounted with embroidered old-gold-colored satin, was moat elegant. A large fan, white ivory stick, pale blue satin, embroidered beautifully with forget-me-nots, was also attractive. Another good stylo was an ebony stick, with black satin leaves, upon which was painted a spray of wild roses curling carelessly down upon tho stick, two or three butterflies fluttering among the flowers. Oolored pearl, and pearl sticks engraved with a black laoe pattern, are pretty and fashionable. Mods. Perrier also showed us some long tan-colored mittens in Swedish kid, which are new and worn with dinner and dressy afternoon toilettes. Goat bodices, or redingsotes, as they are sometimes called, are very fashionable at present, and will most probably continue even more popular as the season advances. We illustrate an example to show how they are made. The bodioes are out very high on the shoulder, and there is a slight falling at the top of the sleeve. The basqne is added os in a Newmarket ooat; there are large buttons at the back where the added basque meets the ooat tails. The most fashionable material for this ooat bodice is plain black Gsnoa velvet, even though the skirt be gauzy, or any thin fabric.