LONDON FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIII, Issue 2342, 5 October 1881, Page 4

LONDON FASHIONS.

[From the “ Queen.”] With Goodwood an event of the past, the fashionable world is hurrying away in search of recreation and amusement after a season’s hard work. Whether the destination be far or near, a moor in Scotland, a yachting expedition, a tour abroad, or the more modest seaside visit, it becomes necessary to provide suitable clothing according to position and circumstances. As an aid to such preparations, we hero give a resume of what ladies’ tailors are making in travelling gear. Sailor hats are now much worn, with only a band of ribbon. Messrs Wolmerhausen, of 40, Ourzon street, Mayfair, are introducing some fancy checked Angolas, which are especially suitable for travelling costumes. The material is soft and light, and does not readily show dust, and some of the tints are really exquisite. For instance, a delicate French grey has a thin blue crossbar j a fawn color has an indistinct gold stripe ; a useful grey has a red line ; heather mixtures have various checks in red and yellow; besides many others too various to mention. The gown, jacket, and often Newmarket coat are made eti suite.

At Messrs Bose Brothers, of Duke street, Grosvenor square, we have likewise seen several costumes suitable to the approaching season of autumn. For instance, a shooting dress had a brown velveteen flounce at the edge of the skirt, and above this a deep kilt and full drapery of Oriental cloth in a somewhat lighter shade of brown. The skirt was well whaleboned at the back, and had the front lined with eider down, to prevent it twisting. The bodice was shaped after the fashion of a gentleman’s morning coat, and was lined with flannel. A velveteen vest and buttons of the darker shade of brown finished it. Long gaiters of cloth wore also to bo worn with it. A useful gown for travelling was plainly made of tropical tweed, with close fitting bodice attached to the skirt, which had wide box plaits round the edge, and the drapery in close folds. Another equally serviceable dress, of a very dark shade of brown, had two killings on the short skirt of vicuna cloth, with drapery of fine stockingette. The double-breasted bodice was also of the latter material, and had a rolled collar and revera of the same, with cardinal satin vest, under which a crossover scarf and linen collar would be worn. A handsome costume had a very full kilt to the waist of myrtle-green velvet, with polonaise of vicuna serge of the same shade, laced down the front and gauged round the neck. It was also drawn again across the width, in compact gougings at the waist seam, which was out to give the appearance of a long waist, and below that the drawings wore continued lengthways, the tunic being draped very short in front. Striped doeskin is much used for jackets and Newmarket coats, and these are made without any hack seam, on account of the stripe. A whole costume of this material is very effective, especially in black and white. The Sailor Bodice is a novel idea, and very pretty. It is made of spotted drill, either a white ground with tiny black spot, or grey with blue or rod spot. It somewhat resembles the Garibaldi shirt, once so popular, but is tighter-fitting, and has a single plait in the front, and box plait at the back, with broad band of the same material, and sailor collar and cuffs. Any skirt can bo worn with it, but black or blue would look especially well. Messrs Bose are making riding habits of a new cloth called Grain de Foudre. The

skirt is made short and close, and the bodice out rather longer in the waist than usual, and has a very small clerical vest. Braiding of all descriptions seems likely to be popular this season. At Messrs Debenham and Freebody’s wo have seen several effective costumes. Some useful blue serges were handsomely braided with narrow black Russia braid in scroll pattern, alternating with rows of wider braid. The bodice is usually braided both hack and front, sleeves to match. Tubular braid also looks well. A dark green foule bege was made with two kilts on the short skirt. A pointed tablier, braided with gold, and the jacket bodice, had a velvet collar and cuffs, braided to correspond. A dark purple, made in much the same style, and braided in gold, looked well. A blue foule serge, much trimmed with narrow braid of the same shade, was in good taste. The bodice was gauged, and the sleeves had a drawn puff at the shoulder, and another below the elbow, with deep braided cuff. Another costume had a lancer bodice with narrow Russia braid and buttons as trimming, carried from the shoulder to waist, and the tunic also braided. Some heather mixture tweeds were plainly and suitably made for really hard wear. Monsieur Qivry, of 23, Old Bond street, has some pretty new costumes especially designed for the season. They are composed of dark brown voile religieuse, with a striped border in corded silk, such as brown and blue, cardinal and white, &o. These make up most effectively. The short skirt has three kiltings, each bordered with the stripe. The bodice has a collar and yoke formed of the stripe, with waistband of the same, and falls in plaits to the waist with the tunic draped short in front en ptmier , and full at the back. A dust cloak in cinnamon brown of a light material with small armcre pattern, was made with Dolman shaped sleeves, and deep cuff with trimming in the form of a stole coming from the shoulder, and finished with tassals, and large mother o’-pearl buttons. This would bo useful as a light wrap, and was well fitting and stylish in appearance. A brown satin parasol, lined with pale gold, with long handle and spiked end, to bo used as a walking stick, would be acceptable, especially for mountainous districts, A small hand-bag, with secret fastening, and likewise a purse and note case with an ingenious clasp, are worthy of notice, especially for travelling. A pretty novelty is a tiny bird in the form of a brooch for fastening lace. A humming bird’s brilliant plumage, with its changing hues, formed one of these ornaments, dome exquisite stockings, suitable for a bride, and very costly, were of white silk, with Chantilly lace let in from the instep. Some others, also in white silk, were embroidered in floss silk, the design being pale blue forget-me-nots and pink roses. The most fashionable stockings have the ornamentation on the instep, this mode having superseded the clock. Shoes embroidered to correspond should be worn with them. Black silk stockings with an alternate plain and open-work stripe are new. Feather fans with tortoiseshell sticks are much used. A charming Rate Greenaway design, painted on dark green feathers, with tortoiseshell handle, and another with the plain peacock feothera unadorned, were very pretty. Some others, with curious designs painted half on the stick of the fan—such as a cockatoo or a stork on shaded red ground—were original. Feather trimmings are again popular. Parasols are sometimes composed entirely of feathers. Shades of green or brown, with a dark border introduced, are very elegant. The new helmet-shaped hats are also made entirely of feathers. A bonnet composed of owls’ feathers, with the head as an ornament, is a novelty. Close straw bonnets, with a knot or bow of black velvet and strings of the same, are still much worn, and are comfortable as well as neat for travelling. At Mme. Melanie’s, of 22, St. George’s Place, Hyde hark corner, we have seen some elegant hats and bonnets. A capote of shaded maroon net and aigrette of ostrich feathers to match, with net strings fattened across the crown, was pretty, as was one with a steel lace crown and pink aigrette Others of black and cream colored net, studded with chenille and aigrette of feathers of any shade, are most becoming. A leghorn hat of fanciful shape was trimmed with satin of the oame shade, with a full wreath of pink roses. Another French shape of Tuscan straw was trimmed with a brilliant Algerienne striped satin and long trail of poppies to hang down at the back. A toque with long wing of peacock feathers on one side had a crimson and gold stripe as foundation with good effect. Another was composed entirely of feathers, with a velvet binding only. A novelty was a pretty close Prinoeeae shape bonnet, the crown of red satin, beaded in diamond pattern with peacock and gold beads ; a cluster of poppies and cornflowers prettily finished it. Some small white straw bonnets had a wreath of black or red currants or white grapes, with black velvet strings as the only trimming. Princess straw bonnets with alternate rows of black and white, or black and gold straw, the latter trimmed with black velvet just powdered with gold, were simple and stylish at the same time. We also noticed a costume suitable to a slight girlish figure, made as follows :—The short skirt had three kiltinge of Prussian blue satin merveilleux, and a polonaise of cashmere the same shade, draped short in front in loose puffs caught here and there, A blue cape, edged with tiuy tabs of blue piped with scarlet, and a collar of the latter shade; a succession of satin bows set thickly together down the front of the bodice, terminating with a cluster of loops finished it in rather novel fashion.