THE NEW CRINOLTTERS.

Globe, Volume XXIII, Issue 2320, 10 September 1881, Page 3

THE NEW CRINOLTTERS.

Dresses are no longer to be worn clinging close to the figure all round, but they are to be set out or expanded by a orinolette all the way down the back. The haut monde in England have adopted this fashion commencing from the first state ball of the season, and their imitators have increased slowly. Now there are a few matters connected with the new orinolettes which our readers may find useful to hnow. In the first place, if they are to be worn, great care must be taken that they are not only put on straight, but kept securely and permanently in their place in the centre of the back. Some people may imagine it rather superfluous to call attention to a matter which every woman would be supposed to think about; but let those who believe this look around and see how many of their friends keep their crinolettes straight in the bustle and turmoil of a round of pleasures which involve standing, sitting, walking, and carriage driving. Before an hour has passed the tiresome crinolette is generally two or three inches out of p tion one side or another, and then alas! what a figure the wearer presents ! To avoid this, we suggest that the crinolette either be fastened to the stays by two, three, or moro buttons as may be found necessary, or that it may be sewn firmly into the skirt itself. The former plan, however, will be found the easier and better to suit all dresses. Some orinolettes are made with half-petticoat fronts, plain, from the side or edge of the crinolette proper, with the intention of keeping the back in place, whilst others are made to hong simply from the waist at the back. The former are certainly far better than the latter for keeping in place, though they, like the others, are safer fastened into a fixed position. There are, however, several different kinds, shapes, and makes of crinolettes ; there are the short horsehair ones, about 12in. to 15in. deep, which are little more than small dress improvers : there are longer horsehair shapes, of various sized semi-circles extending down below the knees, and there are several kinds with the real old crinoline steels. These are generally made to come near to the end of the skirt for walking dresses, with an extra lower part to be buttoned on to wear with long evening and reception dresses; but there is also a longer sort of crinolette made especially for reception dresses, much fuller than could be worn with a short dress. Some of the steel, as well as the horsehair crinolettes, are made like a dress improver for the first ten or twelve inches, then plain for about the same distance, and then with wide steels to reach the end of the dress. These are the most comfortable for sitting down. Others again are made with steels all the way down, with a deep strip of whalebone inserted perpendicularly down the first seven or eight steels at the very top, whilst some are made flexible all the way up. We should give the preference to those with the whalebone strips, as they prevent any wobbling up and down during walking, and keep the dross in a better set when the wearer is seated; though for sitting, we must say all crinolettes are more or less awkward, objectionable, and uncomfortable.

We can suggest a good plan, however, for those who like to look fashionable without undergoing the martyrdom which the extreme votaries of fashion have to endure ; this plan obviates all necessity of wearing a orinolette, and is at the same time economical for girls with limited allowances. It is to insert one or two steels invisibly at the line of the heading to the flounce that borders the skirt, and one a little higher up, fastening a piece of tape across from end to end to obtain the required curve. This sots out the dress beautifully from the edge of the skirt, and the same kind of arrangement on a smaller scale may easily be made if wished near the top of the skirt as well. There is no discomfort in sitting down with the dress set out in this way, and the effect will be found very good. Those, however, who make their dresses at homo should know that to carry out this plan walking skirts must be made half a yard wider at the bottom than has recently been the fashion to out them, and that this increase must be entirely in the back width, into which the steel is inserted, supposing the skirt is made with four widths, but where six widths are introduced to get a greater fulness everywhere, the extra fulness is distributed between the back width and the two side slips adjoining, and the steel extends to half of each of these side widths. These steels, besides being economical and effective, have also a very important advantage over crinolettes proper, in that they cannot possibly get out of place or on one side. The worst that can happen to them once they are in a proper position is that they may break, and this may happen to the crinolettes themselves, so that they are equal in that respect. We have enumerated the principle different kinds of crinolettes, and new a word in conclusion as to the different figures of wearers. Tall, slight people may wear the longest and fullest crinolettes they can buy, and look stylish in them, whilst short stout women would look ridiculous in them. list the latter therefore beware, lest they hurriedly don a fashionable crinolette and make themselves absurd thereby. Crinolettes, as we have said, are made in so many different lengths and degrees of fulness, that all may bo suited if they can only exercise their judgment in the right direction ; but the fashion is not so beautiful as to call forth admirers from all classes at first set ont, and its spread will therefore probably be rather slower than that of moat fashions. It is one indeed which the middle class particularly will do well to leave to the upper class for awhile, lest they, in their desire for change and dislike of imitation, may rush to the extreme of fifteen years ago, and revive the monstrosity of a fullblown crinoline. As was once truly remarked, “imitation is the sincerest flattery;’* but ladies da not seem to consider imitation in dress a flattery which they appreciate, for no sooner are they imitated than they abjure the fashion they themselves have set to start some newer vagary. Therefore, it will be well if sensible middle-class women would adopt the new crinolette fashion as tardily as is consistent with the taste of the times, remembering that what may give a handsome and stylish effect to handsome and stylishly made dresses does not always necessarily fit in with various household duties and busy work of different kinds out of doors and in.