PARIS FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXIII, Issue 2248, 16 June 1881, Page 4

PARIS FASHIONS.

[From tho “Queen.”]

During the last fortnight we have seen little save dark costumes. Tho Lsnten season is one reason, and the wind has been os cold as in winter. Bronze, chestnut-brown, black, and sea-brown scorn the only colors permitted, and the dress-makers have brought ont a variety of Lenten dresses, which they call "robes da carcmo.” First there is the Chanoinesse, made in Indian cashmere, the skirt mounted in box plaits, gatherings on shoulders, and guimpo, an alms bag at the side; this is followed by the Beguine, in violet cashmere plaited from the waist to the feet, Eeligieuso sleeves ; tho Abboase is another costume in serge. Tho Qnakoresso is a fourth, and more elegant than those named; it is made of Surah, and is a mass of tiny plaits, with gatherings only at the wrists and throat. But tho Cardinal robe is the most dainty of all this Lenten attire, and is worn at small reunions and sales for charitable purposes; Groe do Naples is the material used, and the color is “London fog,” or, as wo called it in Paris, “brouillard de Londres j” the front of the skirt is plaited, the panels are satin, the plain bodice is covered with a pelerine, and the trkin opens in front and has small paniers at tho side ; tho stockings and shoes match the dress, and tho mantle, made of the same material, is trimmed with feather bordering.

There aro several new features in tho make of soring dresses. Bodices for slim youthful figures aro now often seen without a shoulder seam, consequently the material is cut on the cross. All soft materials, such 'as Surah, foulard, &c., are gathered for bodices, sleeves, and skirts. Tho gathering is no longer confined to clusters at the throat and waist, but covers the shoulders in parallel rows, simulating a round yoke. It breaks out, too, in sleeves; there ore several rows round the

armholes, tho elbows, and the wrists, and some sleeves are gathered all over ; if the arm is short, the lines run lengthwise; if long, they are horizontal. Tho scarf _ used for trimming bodices is now gathered in clusters, the spaces between tho casings being piaster;. This scarf, which is brood and falls below tho basque, is gathered in five places ; tho centre cluster is at the back of the neck, two clusters below tho throat, and two at tho waist. As for tho various styles in which skirts arc gathered, there is no end ; sometimes tho lower skirt is cased all over in lines round tho figure, and a great feature is the now bouillonne flounce, which separates tho gath; "- ings. The bows on the skirts are novel; they consist of ton or twelve long loops and a few notched or forked ends, all held by one small strap at tho top. Such hows are made of satin ribbon 2in. wide, and two contrasting colors are sometimes used, tho lighter being placed inside the darker loops as a lining. Skirts for walking drosses aro both narrow and short, but they aro trimmed to look wide. Small bullet-shaped buttons are used for fastening bodices, and these are mostly covered with silk crochet and beads ; it largo buttons aro preferred, they are of steel or other metal, but buttons are not conspicuous this season.

The fine woollen materials, so soft that they might be called wool muslins, are much patronised. They are made up over silk, which, however, remains invisible ; but their dull surface is enlivened with satin trimmings, embroidery, and lace. The newest of these wool muslins is embroidered in tiny dots of silk. Nun’s cloth now appears with its selvedge wrought in open work designs, which come in for trimming. There are several new applications of embroidery this season, and many of the bordorings produce a shaded effect, which is managed by allowing the dye to run or drip off gradually.

In some of the thicker woollen materials tho novelty is the introduction of gay perpendicular stripes down half of the fabric, while the other half is a solid color ; indeed, much is done by the manufacturer to facilitate the dressmaker in trimming costumes. These striped and embroidered selvegei or borderings all go to the ornamentation of the costume. The color of such materials is usually Quaker like, sueh as soft shades of drab and tan, while the stripes have a great deal of dark olive green and some gilt threads intro duced. Tho bego and creamy shades of last season have deepened in tone, and, instead of “old gold,” I see “now gold,” and the dull yellows are now brightened to jonquil shades. Sicilienno is still much used by our dressmakers, especially in black and light colors ; the lighter makes o' this fabric called Bongaline and Victoria (which are all silk) will be worn as the summer advances. A beautiful Sioilienne dress has been made recently in the sew blue, which looks as though it were powdered with silver. Tho skirt is bordered with a thick ruche, headed with an embroidered silk flounce of tho same shade as the Sioilienne, the embroidery is so fine that it might bo mistaken for Spanish lace. The basque bodice has a waistcoat embroidered like the flounce. For a less dressy toilette 1 have seen a Sioilienne polonaise of the color called Carmelite, or old silver; the skirt, of shot silk to match, was trimmed with four killings. Twilled silk, called Surah, is also in great favor for dresses ; repped silks are now relegated to linings of bodices and foundations of skirts. Batin Surah, a more closely woven fabric, and often known by the name of satin Merveilleux, is used for both dresses and mantles ; it resembles satin de Lyon, but is softer. Tho shaded and striped sadns look well combined with cashmere, especially in the dark olive-greens contrasted with various shades of gold. The printed satin foulards are made up in great variety, those with dark grounds covered with Japanese figures being immense favorites. When warmer days come, serge Surah is to be worn in light colors, and trimmed with batiste embroidery slightly worked with gold thread. This embroidery is used on many of the dresses recently made by Mme. Rodrigues for fetes; it is not white, nor is it cream, but the shade known as terre cuite, the same that some laces take when they have lain by for a time.

I remark much that is new in black grenadines, which are always most useful drosses. Plain silk grenadines are trimmed with black net frills, dotted and scolloped with white silk; others have steel trimmings, combined with a quantity of Spanish lace. Two kinds of grenadine are used in one dross—striped grenadine for the skirt, and brocbe grenadine for tho bodice and trimmings; sometimes the waistcoat and tablier are satin, embroidered with steel beads and bugles. Bayadere stripes of steel on black net are very effective trimmings on black grenadine dresses. There is quite a rage for Spanish lace ; it is used for bonnets, mantles, and dresses. The bonnets are trimmed with a gay tuft of feathers —coral or flame color; and I infinitely prefer the Spanish to the steel lace, which is another popular favorite. Parasols have not been as yet much in request, but there are many novelties in them. They are larger and not so flat as those of last summer, and are covered with satin Morveilleux, Surah, and brcohe satin. Tho Mercedes is novel, as by an ingenious contrivance the outside covers the projecting top of the stick, and forms a sort of canopy, ornamented with lace or beads to match the trimming. White enamelled ribs, showing outside the lining, are a new feature; so are borders of Bayadere satin on dark parasols, the gay stripes sometimes appearing round tho centre of the parasol. Spanish lace is plentifully used on parasols; black lace on red, black and cream ones; and frills of white Spanish lace cover white satin parasols that are lined with pink-white silk. Gilt and silver brocades are also used for carriage parasols. Some of the ebonised sticks have china handles and white satinwood, polished to look like ivory, is treated in a similar manner. Of course there are shaded parasols, for shaded effects are everywhere. Tho three newest parasols I have yet seen are called Artiste, Bobinson and Ninon. The Artiste is in cretonne, studded with birds and decorated with a palette of colors; the Bobinson has fifteen ribs, and is covered with flowers ; the Ninon is in Indian foulard, embroidered with gold or silver thread. Emahe db Mabbt.