LADIES' COLUMN.

Globe, Volume XXIII, Issue 2207, 23 March 1881, Page 3

LADIES' COLUMN.

LONDON FASHIONS FOR FEBEUARY. When are we to see the end of the rage for plush, I wonder ? Not yet, evidently, for not only is it more popular than ever, but every day something freah is discovered for which it can bo uaed. The most luxurious of the petticoats are of this beautiful material, lined with silk, aa are also large collars, now often worn with black or very dark dresses, and more novel adaptations of it are found in gloves and shoes for evening wear, while by far the most elegant and comfortable pelisses for oarriage or theatre toilets are formed of it, the white ones for the latter purpose, lined with satin, being particularly beautiful. Speaking of evening wraps, I may mention some lovely ones made of chenille, in which are woven threads of gold. These are arranged so as to form a hood and cape in one. Another head covering is a wide scarf of net, either black or white, fastened over the hair with jewelled pins and carried round the neck with the ends falling behind. A great luxury and a pretty adjunct to evening toilettes aro the muffs of either lace or satin, now so fashionable. The prettiest of these are nearly covered with flowers, the foundation being lace, For example, one of white lilac on a black lace foundation, the side carried next to the wearer being unadorned with flowers. Another, of elder flower upon creamy white lace, with, on one side, a large clnster of foliage and a single drooping tearose ; and, lastly, one of old gold satin with a deep cream colored lace, put in very full at the openings, ornamented, and half covered with red and brown plush leaves. The accessories of the evening toilets are thought a great deal of just now, and gloves, stockings, and shoes are therefore quite specialties. For ball dress, gloves are mostly trimmed with lace, row ovor row of insertion J being [let in, ending with a frill either just above or below the elbow. Those for dinner and demi-toilet have often embroidory or gold gauze braid let in, and a new freak for these is to have gussets of a contrasting color let in from the upper edge, and some wbioh are more suitable for ball dress have a wreath of flowers round the top, while black ones for blaok dresses are very often beaded high up the arm. Stockings must match the dress, not only the plain color of it, but must be worked with the same flowers, or embroidered to match the trimming with beads or silk. Evening shoes are still worn very pointed at the toes and cut down very low so that a great deal of stocking is shown. Flush, as we said before, makes pretty evening shoes, particularly when richly embroidered with beads, and satin ones also look well with little bouquets of embroidered flowors, but in any caao the shoes must match the dress with which they are worn. Another important, item is the fan, and we notice some pretty ones called the Dubarry, made of leather covered with white satin, with a wreath of pink roses at the edge, and another fashionable fan is made entirely of feathers taken from birds of very rare plumage fastened quite flat upon a satin or silk foundation. The greatest feature in the evening dresses is the profusion of Spanish laoo with which they are trimmed. Some of the short dancing dresses now so popular are made of white or cream-coloured satin, with very little trimming save at the bottom, where there is a heavy one of lace in which flowers are very often introduced. A great deal of white is worn for ball toilets, and barege and silk India muslin are two of the prettiest materials, needing no other trimming than lace to form very elegant dreaaes. These are, of course, more suitable for young girls than any others, but young married ladies make but little difference in their toilets after marriage, and wear white constantly. Dinner dreaaes being long are of richer materials, amongst which plush and velvet ones are favorites, and for anyone with a good figure nothing could bo more becoming than one of the long trailing robes of one of those without any trimming whatever, save the lace at the throat and sleeves, and the balayeuse, also of lace. I noticed particularly a dress of this kind, worn by a handsome dark woman at a recent soiree, made of old gold plush, high at the throat, with a ruffle of very rich old lace studded with pearls, and elbow sleeves finished in tho same way, which was very becoming, the headdress being equally so, and composed of soft yellow silk arranged like a miniature turban, with strings of pearls twiated in the folds.

Tho walking dresses of cloth, plush, and velvet, are very simply made and but little trimmed, bnt gome very much improved by tigbt fitting jackets of some good contrasting material, but of the same color as the costume. Thus, a seal brown cloth has one of these coats made of thick brocaded velvet with gold buttons, and one of mouse grey cashmere has a jacket of the same color in plush, with large painted buttons.

Costumes are still made of two different patterns of the same material, and we notice, as an example, one of cashmere, one plain olive green, and the other with the same ground checked with dark red. The skirt is made upon a foundation which it covers. At the bottom is a deep kilted flounce, and above that, in front, is a sort of short tunic headed by folds to form paniers. The flounce is ef the checked, as are also the paniers, but the tunic is. of plain* cashmere. At the back the drapery is of check, and dividing that from the tunio in front are panels of the plain material buttoning down the entire length with red cord and buttons. The bodioe is of plain material without trimming, save deep cuffs and sailo>- collar of the other, The hat for this ia of olive green felt, with shaded red ostrich feathers. It is very large and turned up on one side, and lined with drawn satin to match in color.

Some very elegant embroideries, which are now sold in strips, are worked in silk or beids upon satin, and are very fashionable for trimming both petticoats and dresses, being used with good effect upon the dark woollen costumes.

One fashion we regret to see upon the increase—that of crinoline. Whether we shall ever return to the absurdities of some fifteen years ago is a matter at present only of conjecture; but certain it is there is a tendency towards something in the shape of a tournure, and scarcely any trained drees is worn without one, sometimes made of stiff muslin and laoe, only flounce over flounce, or sometimes of crinoline itself. It is to be hoped we may stop at this, for though the dresses have been almost too tight and narrow during the last few years, they are yet much more graceful and natural than the inflated balloons we have so utterly condemned.

To Otjeb TonqtjbS.—For a tongue that weighs seven pounds, put one ounoe of saltpetre, half an ounce of black pepper, two ounces of sugar, and three ounces of juniper berries. In two days it will be fit for cooking. Take care to have the gullet cut away before it is cooked.

Gbavjt pot* a Boast Fowl.—Boil the seek of the fowl, after having cut it small, in half a pint of water, with a seasoning of spice or herbs ; let it stew very softly for an hour and a half. When the bird is just ready for table, take the gravy from the dripping pan and drain off the fat; strain the liquor from the neck into it, mixing them smoothly; pass the gravy again through the strainer, heat it, add seasoning if necessary, and take it hot to table.

Pickik fob Cubing Meat.—To five gallons of water allow eight pounds of salt, three pounds of sugar, three ounoea of saltpetre, and two ounces of potash. Boil all together until the impurities from the sugar and salt rise to the top, skim, pour into a tub to cool, and when cold pour over the meat. The meat should bo killed at least twentyfour hours before packing, and a very good way is to sprinkle with a little powdered saltpetre as soon as the meat is cut up—this removes surface blood. Dbipping—Mutton dripping is not in any way so valuable as that of beef or perk, it beinfj fit only for frying purposes, but bacon fat should never be discarded, it being equal to lard for cakes and pastry. A great objection to it, however, is that it looks so dark ; but this can be remedied. Bacon should be cooked in a perfectly clean frying pan, and the fat, when the pan is etoptied, be run through a tin strainer, previously dipped in hot water ; then a little boiling water should be poured wih tho fat itself into the basin. This will take all remaining impurities to tho bottom, leaving the upper crust white and pure. Not only haoon fat, but all drip- | ping, should be treated in this w&y while it is hot.