THE PARISIAN FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXII, Issue 2128, 18 December 1880, Page 4

THE PARISIAN FASHIONS.

Manufacturers of plush will realise fortunes, for plush is already in great favor for dress trimmings and mantles, and later on there will bo a furore for it. To meet the demand plash is produced in all colors and in all widths—sealskin plush (perfectly imitating real seal), tiver spotted plush, black plush, striped plush, smooth plush, rough plush, &c. In fact, it will replace fur for jackets and mantles, it will rcpleos velvet for drosses, it will replace Batin for pockets, cuffs, _ and plastrons, it will figure largely in the millinery world, and yet it is a most perishable material. _ . The new bonnets are medium sized, their brims are lined with plush, and they are worn baok on the crown of the head. Largo pokes ore not general, and young piquant faces only should indulge in them. Combinations of material have found their way to bonnets ond hats, and wo have bonnets of plush and satin, of plush and velvet, and of plush and beaver, but in such combinations the rule is always observed of preserving one colour, though various shades of it may be aged; contrasts are found in tho trimming alone. Striped plush is a decided novelty in millinery ; the pile is indented to form ridges, and sometimes there is a line of gilt between each plnah stripe. In black, white, and red this novelty is exceptionally pretty, ond it is used in various ways—the crown, for example, will be striped plush when the brim is smooth plush, or vice vena ; brims are lined with it, and for binding satin strings this striped plush is most effective. Feathers have quite taken the _ place of -flowers on winter bonnets ; they either surround the crown, or pass down one side of it, the end drooping on the knot of hair that now rests on the nape of the neck. Short ostrich tips curl over the front of brims, or they fall low on tho ears, and the more carelessly they sure posed the more stylish they look. If flowers do appear on bonnets they are chiefly made of plush, the petals of large roses, and the olive and brown leaves of tho foliage are oil plush, and, mounted on tho new gilt flexible stems, they are handsome, and will look well on evening dresses. Single large blooms, such as dahlias, poppies, asters, and sunflowers are in favour; and although feathers have now supplanted flowers in millinery, our dressmakers send home a bodice bouquet with all dresses except the very plainest costumes ; * email bird is often perched on these flowers. For general wear, beaver bonnets have taken the place of felt; black velvet bonnets wro lined with soft long pile plush, and lightened with .gilded flies and facetted beads. There is no doubt but that a black bonnet is the most economical, but this season itshould be combined with a color that is decided by the range of colors in tho various costumes of the wearer. For example, a black beaver bonnet with red plush lining and red plumes can bo worn with any dress that has a red balayense, and amber plush lining and plumage will make a black bonnet appropriate for nearly all the drosses, a brnno will find “becoming.” Bonnet strings are a yard long, and are tied either in front or behind, although it is considered most dressy to arrange them in one long-looped bow low on the baok of the hair. The beaded trimmings in tho way of crowns and laces for brims are in greater favor than ever. Jet, gold, amber, and purple beads are much used, but the novelties are the large facetted beads in cashmere colors for dark bonnets, while silver and pearl beads out in facets like diamonds, and of large size, are miod in rows on white and black plush ’ bonnets. Among other new ornaments are serpentine coils of gilt like the bracelets now worn; these infold scarfs of Surah or plush. Largo flies and bees, of gilt, jet, amber, and raby seem to be more used than any other ornament. Another novelty is the tiger’s claw, with natural looking fur,-and gilt or silver claws. Largs Hair-pins of gilt are stuck about, and there ard clusters of smaller pins «£ gilt, silver, or pearl, with oval heads, thrust ss if at random in the loops and knots of the trimming. The laces most in vogns for millinery are either plain Brussels net beaded or stitched in vermicelli patterns with gilt, or else Spanish lace in thick and rich designs. Theatre and dressy bonnets ars of colored plush, such as lilac, with an amethyst tint, dahlia with red tints, &c. Tho Americans wear wKita plu.h, -with either silver or pearl Hoads and white Spanish lace. Gold plush bonnets are often worked with amber beads and chenille, the trimmings being shaded ostrich tips. As for hats, almost every form is worn, from the Abbe to the Gainsborough, including (,he pastrycook cap, - called in England the Tam o’ Shonter. • Muffs ore now made to match the hat or bonnet, and plash muffs •of envelope or pocket shape are tyimmed with feathers, lace and .birds. There are also muffs made entirely! of feathers, which look oxactly like the richest sable, and they are delightfully soft and light; others look gay 'with small bows of cardinal or violet ribbon utndded among the feathers. The single narrow balayense flounce edging the skirt is to be seen on most winter coalmines. It is mounted ip inch, wide box plaits instead of kilts, is about a finger deep, oat on Che cross, and lined with crinoline. It is iiewn to the edge of the skirt with a cording. Whether the long cloaks prepared in Paris for winter wear will “ take ” in England it is difficult to say; but here there are : two varieties—one very long, for carriage wear, and long skirts, while for handsome short costumes are cloaks of equal elegance, both in design and fabric, but of medium length, extending just below the knees. Black is the color preferred for these Bpanish-looking wraps, and the materials are stately brocades or else plain lustrous staffs, such as satin de Lyon or the repped Sioilienne satins, and, indeed, the plain satin is also employed in its . inchest qualities. Tbe brocaded satins and brocaded velvets differ from those used last year in having large detached figures rather than the small matelasse effects then popular. A clinging shape following the outline of the figure, and supplied with large square loose sleeves, or else wing like side pieces, is the general design, which is varied in small details. The la-ge collar of the material of the trimming is more often seen on these cloaks than tho hood, which is a feature of plainer wraps. High full ruches about the neck also add to the stately effect. These rnohea are made of tho feathers, tho plush, or plaiting* of the material used for trimmings ; chenille fringe is also arranged in new ways to form rioh ruches. Galloon with jet and shaped ornaments of passementerie contribute to the flat trimmings. When the (garment is meant for a slender figure, drawing or gathering is introduced on the shoulders and across the back in the way illustrated • several months ago in “ The Queen.” A special feature lot these cloaks is their gay lining of plash, especially in red and golden shades, and in the heliotrope tints. These linings vie with those of fur in their richness, warmth, and extravagance. In some cloaks the sleeves are turned up in capricious ways to display the plush lining, smd sometimes black plush used in this way is the only trimming. What is called sealskin fringe is a new chenille fringe that is rioh and active. Mossy ruches of feathers and of passementerie, also very wide feather borders cf black ostrich tips,, are on the handsomest cloaks. Luces are again used, especially on the quaint Direotoire garments, and on the Spanish wraps. Instead of tho thick plaitiags of lace seen last season, these laces are cow most often gathered to form foil frills. Light colored cloths are preferred for • j ickote, and these are made warm-looking by having darker plush, or velvet collars. The shape of these differs so little frem tho e worn lost year that it will be a matter of small expense to remodel last year’s jacket’, the only change needed being the collar, cuffs, and pockets of- plush. Small round capos of cloth, heavily beaded, are prepared far winter wear.