PARIS FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXII, Issue 2109, 26 November 1880, Page 4

PARIS FASHIONS.

[From the “Queen.”] Hats are of three favorite shapes—the Rembrandt, large, deep-brimmed, of plush or velvet, with large feathers, and lined with jet; the Frondeuse, or Duchesse, is smaller, pointed in front, and with turned back brims, two feathers lying on each side the crown, with a noeud of velvet in the middle, are its only ornament; the Clarissa Harlowe is an exact reproduction of that worn in the days of Richardson’s ill-fated heroine, round and almost flat, the low crown encircled by feathers and roses under the wide brim. For a lovely woman nothing could be more becoming or artistic, but the wearer need bo young and lovely too. Preparations, alas! for winter are being made, while we seem to have had no summer; and the productions of our leading houses show too plainly the approach of the “ shivering season.” The dresses are either quite short or with very long trains; the demitrain does not appear as yet. The materials used are of the richest and warmest; polkadotted velvets, brocaded velvets in very large patterns with cloth for plainer wear; many are in two tones of the same color, others are “ iluminated,” as, for instance, black with copper red. As the corsages have as few seams as possible, and therefore are simply made, the skirts of short dresses are fuller than they have been at any time since short dresses were introduced. There is much drapery, and what there is is very bouffante, and sashes are as popular as ever. A series of satin scarves will cross the front breadth in many dresses, and pass under aide panels faced with a contrasting color in satin, velvet, or plush. Mile. Sarah Bernhardt, who starts for America on October 4tb, has had prepared for her some magnificent toilettes. One of the most effective is that for “Camille,” a white satin ball dress, with camellias embroidered on a groundwork entirely of pearls; another dress is of nothing but Valenciennes lace and pearls; for “ Frou-Frou ” there is an ivory satin covered with embroidery of mother-of-pearl; for the " Sphinx,” a yellow satin skirt, with jet-covered cuirass, and two ravens upholding the skirt. For more ordinary wear we shall see stockingnette still in favour, both for polonaises and bodices, handkerchief dresses in woollen, shawl dresses, and then there are “ bordered woollens, 1 ’ which are different again from handkerchief costumes. These have a border for trimming woven along the selvedge, and measuring from three to five inches wide. Some are the colour of the foundation, others are in contrast, and are either Madras stripes or in tapestry designs. These bordered woollen costumes are manufactured in the fashionable purple shades, such as plum eveque, prune, and amethyst, and I have also aeon them in bronze, bottle green, old red, and various shades of blue. Such costumes are usually completed with a gaily lined hood, which is worn alike on dresses and mantles ; indeed, our lingeres have been recently adding them to nightdresses, so we have quite a hood mania.

French cashmere is to be used for antnmn dresses, and most exquisite light colours are prepared for making up into house dresses, colors that have not been seen for years, snch as peach, lilac, pearl grey tinged with pink, 'lemon, maize, salmon, and three white shades —cream, ivory, and white tinted with pink. All these are intended for artistic and classic costumes and tea gowns. For out-door wear there are dark shades of cashmere, and notably four of the fashionable purple shades, ranging from mauve to dahlia, all of which are tinted with red. There are also several blne-purples, reds, and greens, and among the lost “ riflegreen,” a clear old-fashioned shade like myrtle. -Embroidered cashmere is now sold in pieces, measuring fire yards, for trimming these plain cashmere dresses; the coloring and design of the work (which I believe is machine) are excellent, and they are finished off with crimped tape fringe. There is sufficient in each set for scarf drapery for the skirt and a narrow band for bodice and sleeves.^ For present wear very elegant toilettes are -composed of light-colored cloths of various •tints—one is the peculiar brown known as “oheveux de la reine,” another “gant de Suede.” Pearl grey, flax grey, and especially cream, are also worn. The cloth is often combined with satin merveilleuz. One noticeable change in dress as the summer season closes is the reappearance of thei Indian cashmere shawl. The most moderate Parisian wardrobe would not be complete without at least one of these prized wraps. They are now seen everywhere daring the cool evenings at the chateau, and visiting or travelling. Parisian ladies wear them at weddings, vitites obligatoires, or in any other oironmstanoe which may, in spite of the season, bring them back to the capital. A cashmere shawl is a rich, elegant, and becoming part of a toilette; bat fashion ordered the wearing of the horrible ulsters, smock frocks, ■manteauz and great coats, so they could but obey. An Indian cashmere is one of the principal items of the corbeille de mariage. Instead of wearing their shawls in the old style, ladies now have them turned into elegant mantles and burnous, which display their graceful shape while retaining their Asiatic and tasteful appearance. At the last Consert Beeselievre many of our American visitors wore nicely fitting ; pelisses made of long and striped Indian cashmere, which attracted much attention by the elegance of jfcheir style. Some wore open in front, and handsomely folded below the waist; others were made in a loose and comfortable round chape, but all were arranged so as to display the beautiful colors of the Indian texture.

Among forthcoming novelties chenille will hold a prominent place. Entire mantles will be composed of very thick chenille, powdered with gold and steel—one row of chenille, one of gold, and so one. Little collets St. Niegrin will also be worn, of chenille mixed with gold, and surcoats of chenille. It is a fashion lor slight figures, as chenille adds to the wearer’s embonpoint. Plush also will be utilised in every possible way, for collars and cuffs, and plastrons for children's dresses 5 for trimmings, for linings ; ■for combination with every other material; hut the same warning as to its indiscriminate use applies to plush as to chenille.